Tag: womens

Clio Peppiatt's presentations are always a highlight of fashion week, creating fun and whimsical collections that have an undertone of fierce femininity running through them. Climbing up the famously narrow spiral staircase at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, we were presented with this season's Pepiatt women, draping themselves on chairs around a laden table while harp music played.

Seduction through decadence was the name of the game. Vibrant colours highlighted opulent glittering detailing and intricate lacework, all set against the indulgent food on the table and being touted on trays by models. Rich reds and daring pinks formed the basis of many designs, tapping into the femme fatale influence behind the collection, which were then tempered with darker, deeper indigos and blacks.

Inspired by seductive modern-day witch in Anna Biller's film 'The Love Witch', the mystical was scattered across the scene, causing the models, who were playfully chatting and giggling, to exude a a sense of underlying power. Tarot cards lay around the table and manifested themselves as delicate embellished designs on bags and jackets. Pink eyeshadow that crept down to blushing cheeks added to the effect, creating a subtle but sure connections between each woman.

The clothes themselves covered all bases; there were styles for every kind of style. Unapologetically sensual red, pink and black lingerie, barely covered by lace-edges sheer dresses, made direct eye contact with the audience, while more conservative ruffled jumpers and floating skirts toyed coquettishly with bag straps and table decorations.

Peppiatt has once again brought together her collection in a perfectly balanced way. It was hard not to be drawn in by the stylised scene, charmed by the food, the clothes and the sultry, mystical power of the women who were wearing them. Whether you want to make like Biller's protagonist and show your fierce femininity through enticing design, or prefer to delve into your darker side with a more nuanced style, we love the vision of woman that come through in her clothes each season; the ideal mix of strong, sexy and slightly supernatural.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts_

By the end of a busy day of shows, the crowd outside Freemasons’ Hall are usually ready to get a bit of a Friday wiggle on in the last shows of the day. And Michaela Frankova did not disappoint them.

The beat of the music echoed through the showspace as her beautiful young things oozed down the catwalk, almost in slow-motion, showing off every indulgence that the designer had woven into the pieces.

Decadent headdresses, designed by Della Reed at Velvet Eccentric, sat atop marcel-waved hair, dripping in beads and glittering jewels that scattered themselves down the faces of the models. Necks were cuffed with velvet collars in rich tones, some created exclusively for the collection by Reed, each one adorned with different neckpieces that drew the audience’s attention.

And then we get to the clothes themselves. Inspired by the classic Hollywood glamour of the 1940s, the collection mostly consisted of dresses; long, shimmering gowns made up of delicate beading and layers of tulle walked alongside sultry slips made of delicate silks.

Silvers, lilacs and golds gave the designs a sophistication, while stronger, bolder colours and eye-catching prints from digital artist T-Mo Bauer added a feisty kick.

For more of a day-to-day style, there were tight trousers in black and white, featuring intricate lace and fur cut-outs that were emulated in the sheer tops and jackets that they were paired with.

As the music reached a crescendo, Frankova’s ultimate Golden Age woman arrived on the catwalk, wearing a decadent evening dress in cornflower blue and silver shades. Shoeless and clutching a venetian eye mask, she laughed and spun down the catwalk, flanked by two models in white leotard dresses, covered in jewels. And it was this that summed up Frankova’s collection perfectly; opulent and dramatic pieces that emphasise the individual, enigmatic character of anyone who wears them.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Zac Mahrouche | Fashion Week Photographer | @zacmahrouche

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Edeline Lee has returned for SS17 with a creative collection that really showcases why we fell in love with Lee. The collection presented reminded me of the styles that you would see in the streets of Japan. For those that unaware of Japanese fashion, some of the styles are extreme, colourful and avant-garde. Japanese fashion can also be seen as being simple; this simplicity is presented with the different levels and layers of fabrics.

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One model wore a flannel blue and grey asymmetric shirt, this was paired with a white knee length skirt. This particular style worn by the female model can be seen as androgynous. The look was not finished as Lee paired it with a pair of below the knee, white socks and chunky white strappy sandals. By doing so it screamed Japanese fashion. The socks and shoes immediately made the outfit look quirkier and modernised.Edeline Lee 2

This androgynous look continued with the next model who wore a white shirt dress accompanied with an oversized white coat that had black thick lines across it. These patterns emulate the love of patterns that dominate Japanese male fashion. The ensemble is paired with black leggings, socks and strappy sandals.

Lee’s collection is most definitely trendy and presenting a different outwear look. I appreciate that Lee explores Japanese street style and new school romance fashion. Mostly, I appreciate that Lee is bringing it to London. I think the Japanese street style is not something that London has fully embraced as of yet, however I believe that Lee’s collection is a slow transition into accepting it.

Edeline Lee’s collection can be compared to Jonathan Saunders 2009 spring collection and J W Anderson’s SS14 collection. Lee displays a similar style in terms of the simple designs and pastel colours by bringing us something new and edgy.  Although I believe it may take some time for London to fully embrace this style, Lee is definitely taking the right steps forward. It was truly exciting to see the collection first hand and even more exciting to see how Lee will develop from here.

WORDS: Elizabeth Abbey| Fashion Week Press| Elizabeth9422

IMAGES: Zac Mahrouche |Fashion week photographer

Having graduated from London College of Fashion in 2010 Milo Maria debuted her third collection at London fashion week for SS17. There was most definitely a theme within her collection which was ‘minimalism’. There was a range of materials used but mostly her collection consisted of satins, silks and classic designs. Collectively the designs were supposed to reflect in her own an ‘astronomical journey’ and she most certainly showed this.

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The classic designs were accompanied by the models having their hair swept behind. The models stood side to side and some on different levels with two models sitting on a box, the different levels allowed us to see the different ways that the dresses would appear.

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The theme of sophistication was displayed through the long dresses/skirts and suit outfits, portraying women to be fierce and simultaneously graceful. Many of the pieces stuck out to me, the brown on brown long sleeved top and matching oversized pleated skirt in vinyl material was a personal favourite. The design is a classic piece, although it could appear quite casual there is something about the design that makes it very demure. Quite similarly there was a sheer long sleeved peach top accompanied by a long ankle length white skirt. What was noticeable with the two models is this carefree aura that they exuded. Most designs displayed at fashion week sometimes tend not to be deigns that the average person can wear, however Maria’s collection does otherwise.

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What was interesting about the collection is the different shapes and fabrics used for each design. Despite the difference in each look, it is evident that all the models were part of one collection. Evidently this shows that Maria is solidifying her mark in the fashion world.

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Most of the designs in the collection were not figure hugging. Most of the designs were ankle length or covered most of the body. The neutral tones as well as the designs really emphasised this classical minimalistic look that Maria successfully accomplishes. Who knows what is next for Milo Maria, if she can build on this collection for AW17 then the future is looking very bright for her!

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WORDS: Elizabeth Abbey| Fashion Week Press| @elizabeth9422

IMAGES: ELLEN| Fashion Week Photographer

 

 

I'm pretty sure I've had nightmares that have consisted of walking into a grand hall, covered in plastic sheets, with very little lighting and an eerie soundtrack playing in the background. Only for people to suddenly appear in front of me, clad in straight jackets. While this does sound like a strange dream or even a plot to a Hollywood horror film, it was actually James Kelly's SS16 show at the Freemason's Hall. His models were restrained by their jackets, however those jackets were the classic wardrobe staple: the Parka! Perfect for those nippy spring mornings.

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Kelly's brilliantly disturbing (in the best way) masterpiece explored the very darkness of the human mind while still seeking novel ways to jazz up the age old khaki jacket. He also used green faux fur to symbolise moss and to create artistic texture through the entire collection; almost becoming somewhat of a signature for the line. It seemed that Kelly wanted to show the process of deterioration, which is a sure departure from the many "ground-braking" (in the words of Miranda Priestly), floral and 'spring has sprung' messages that many designers explore in their Spring/Summer collections. Kelly therefore presents something born from the darkest parts of life that show how very iconic pieces of clothing can grow and develop into something beautifully avant-garde, maybe even unique.

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Kelly has shown us that for SS16 we don't have to be perfect in blooms all of the time. We can embrace the chaotic and messy, all the way to the downright weird. We don't have to wear bright colours all of the time either. Sometimes a parka coat and bomber boots are just as chic. And for the many cold Monday morning commutes ahead, we really couldn't ask for anything better!

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Words| Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press