Tag: women

Phoebe English is first and foremost a craftsman within her trade. Just by looking at her men's and women's collections, it is always clear to see that her ethos is to not only create art but to engineer every aspect of it. The young designer is also a passionate advocate of underappreciated and sometimes even lost construction techniques. So it is always a fascinating experience to be able to learn about these processes that take place very often away from prying public eyes.

For SS18 English presented a collection that works closely with another long-standing craft: Puppets.

With models lining the room in English's visions for SS18, standing along side them were puppets (also named marionettes) hanging from strings and wearing miniature versions of each piece. In a theatrical sense, this setting was reminiscent of a Tim Burton film with dark romantic undertones cutting through. The faceless puppets mimicking their human twins were charming and yet hauntingly striking. The lighting, which created shadows throughout the room, heightened the dramatic air and drew attention to the careful construction of each piece.

Marionettes were not only used for dramatic effect, their entry into the SS18 collection was whole-heartedly a way for English to show the foundations of her craft and pay homage to the past techniques of design. It is this simplicity of her silhouettes, cuts and monochromatic colour palette that lets the eye see past whatever may be on the surface and truly look to the finer details. Details such as the careful draping of fabrics and textured knots of black bra- like tops, on top of clean-cut white shirts.

Muslin and poplin materials are overlayed with mesh and tulle that give textured feel, making the clothes unreservedly wearable but gives them that stand-out quality.

It was this clever decision to duplicate the designs which show just how adaptable fashion can be. Be it on the smaller scale, on a puppet for a showcase with an edgy punch. Or the life-sized version that will be worn by people within their daily lives over the coming season.

English pulled the strings behind-the-scenes to showcase her dark fairy-tale at London Fashion Week. Like all good fairy-tales its important to look to the message beneath the surface. In this case English's message is simple: We should all take the time to admire the methods that go into creating our favourite styles. After all fashion is above all else an enduring craft.

 

Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press| @londonellagram

images: Rosemary Pitts| Fashion Week Photography| @rosemarypitts

Pam Hogg’s SS18 show came sooner than we were expecting this year, swapping her usual Friday night slot for one of the first on the schedule. But fear not; her show was still full of her effervescent energy that we’ve come to anticipate from her legendary catwalks.

As we made our way to our seats in the Vestibule of Freemason’s Hall, the catwalk was full of our favourite Pam Hogg regulars, including Jaime Winstone and Nick Cave, meeting and greeting each other and creating the pre-show hubbub that only Pam can inspire. After several attempts to get everyone quietly sitting in their seats, the chatter died down, the lights dimmed and the show began. A wonderfully vintage version of ‘Teddy Bear’s Picnic’ lilted out of the speakers, crackling as though from a gramophone, setting the scene for the models that soon arrived.

Softer than her usual aesthetic, high-necked tulle and lace dresses in pastel and neutral shades opened the show, slowly gliding down the catwalk with a gentle sway as they moved. But she hasn’t suddenly gotten all conservative on us; the designer’s signature daring style soon revealed itself, with soft layered pompoms artfully placed over sheer bodysuits and masks covering faces, wiggling with every step.

The music shifted up a notch and suddenly things made a move towards the post-punk movement that has been a constant influence to Hogg’s design. Colours became bolder and more defined, lines hardened into graphic shapes and materials got a little bit sexier. Eyeshadows and lips, too, moved from subtle sweeps of shade to emblazoned stripes of pure colour.

Alongside primary colours and monochrome, the pastels from the start of the show reappeared, this time as eye-catching yet feminine pleather trench coats and barely-there plunging necklines.

The final duo to appear on the catwalk were a culmination of the exploration of two such different  design styles; ruffled tulle and and flattering silhouettes created bright pink and blue outfits, both completed by towering headdresses.

As Pam Hogg, or indeed, Dr Pam Hogg made her way down the catwalk on the arm of Alice Dellal, a name now synonymous with the brand, it was clear that the designer is evolving her oeuvre. The fun, colourful, graphic style that she’s recognised for is still there, but there are added elements of more nuanced femininity that round out the collection.

Pam Hogg might never be for the fashion wall-flower, but small and intriguing changes that she makes each season such as this keep  opening her world up to more and more people, and keep us coming back for more. ‘Friday I’m in love’ played her out, and, as ever, it’s Friday of fashion week that we’re in love with our gal Pam.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photography|@tegan.photography
Zac Mahrouche | Fashion Week Photography | @zacmahrouche

600x597xlaura_mvula_lt_070416.jpg.pagespeed.ic.chHo942aET

Laura Mvula has returned with the incredible visual to her soaring single "Phenomenal Woman", the track inspired by a Maya Angelou poem of the same name,  is taken from her forthcoming album 'The Dreaming Room'.

The bold and bright visual was shot in Cape town and is dubbed by Laura as an "anthem to raise up our women".

Combining a stomp-worthy chorus and stuffed to the brim with hooks, "Phenomenal Woman" is the perfect Tuesday pick-me-up.

Enjoy below:

Words: Corrie Parris

DJD_8641

Thea Green, Lizzie McQuade, Roksanda Ilincic, Georgina Coulter and Sophia Webster led the list of business women and fashion elite that joined the launch of the second season of ‘Women in Making’. The panel of Makers were quizzed about their experiences in setting up their own businesses providing inspiring nuggets of information for all the aspiring business women sipping champagne at 57/59 Monmouth St, Seven Dials, London.

‘Women in Making’ which debuted in Autumn/Winter 2013 is inspired by women celebrating their femininity, creativity, strength and sheer diversity. As part of the ‘Women in Making’ campaign Triumph will reach out to a number of creative influencers dubbed ‘Makers’ across a variety of creative disciplines in a celebration of true craftsmanship and expertise.

The Women in Making campaign is both emotive and empowering and continues to provide a voice and a platform as a champion of women in creative business. Women are invited to showcase their inspirational business idea via the triumph.com/womeninmaking website creating their own social profile to champion their creative nature via their inspirations, and their craft via examples of their work and proposed business plans.

The campaign will culminate in June with the ‘Women in Making’ winner being announced and awarded a £10,000 prize from Triumph alongside a year’s worth of mentoring from the makers panel & the chance to be stocked within Fenwick Bond St.