It was as if a fresh summer breeze had swept through the Gallery at Freemasons Hall. A kaleidoscope of chartreuse, orange, gold and crisp white flowed down the Mimpikita SS16 catwalk; each oh-so-pretty piece screaming to be taken on the most glamorous of holidays come next June.
Titled ‘A New Femininity’, the collection featured elegant, flowing dresses that were loosely fitting but still drew attention to the body via plunging back detailing and sheer fabrics. Solid colours were broken up with abstract shapes, stripes and metallic threads, while sheer nude and white blouses were adorned with sparkling jewels. However, even the most stunning and detailed pieces still managed to maintain a minimalist, understated appeal.
Hem lines varied between knee and floor length, with the cut and draping of fabric taking centre stage. Wrapover necklines, shawl collars and asymmetric shapes were featured amongst the key detailing. Models wore flat slip-ons while hair was pulled up into a stylish bouffant with a casual side ponytail, and decorated with gold fan shape grips; styling that perfectly summed up the collection – laid back but utterly beautiful.
The brand was established back in 2008 by three sisters; Nurul, Mira and Syera Zulkifli, all of whom had previously supported their family-run architectural business; a creative background that continues to influence the silhouettes they design. Though price points for pieces are a very reasonable, high-street friendly range between £50-£150, the brand has become renowned for the quality of fabric used and commitment to craftsmanship, including the fact that their Kuala Lumpur based team includes beading specialists.
Easy-to-wear but utterly charming, this is the perfect collection for the girl who wants to turn heads without even trying.
David 'monochrome' Koma has won a legion of fans for his trademark style of asymmetric bug-structure combined with a two-tone block colour scheme, and this season certainly didn't disappoint.
For SS14 the Georgian designer took his inspiration from the ancient form of Japanese archery, Kyudo, creating an aesthetic of a woman who is a strong elegant warrior dressing with balance, stillness and control.
With a flash of white the show kicked off showing pretty white body structured thigh skimming dresses, revealing flashes of shoulders or chest.
Sheer was smart paired with Koma's favourite marriage of black and white, triangles and diagonal stripes flattered and sculpted the feminine form, shoulders were highlighted in clear sheer to show a hint of vulnerability.
Dusty pink was executed with strong femininity, lowlighting perfect pleats in with black creating a 3D skirt effect, holding the rest of the body together in monochrome triangles and rectangles, as if the female form was designed to be captured in shapes.
The slightly off part of the collection was the Koma's choice to pair royal with powder blue creating a dress fit for a cheerleader rather than a warrior princess, albeit a very well tailored one.
The collection got progressively darker, more militant and spidery with the introduction of dark blue often framed with leather caged ribs morphing into the eventual black armour of leather shoulder pads mounted on caged sleeves over a fitted black dress revealing the midriff, and panelled skirts cut with flashes of leather.
David Koma's design apple definitely doesn't fall far from the tree, it would have been nice to see him experiment outside of his comfort zone of monochrome, but his magic formula is certainly not broke, so perhaps there is no need to fix it.
Hidden in the depths of a deserted forest just outside of London Farr Festival is back for it's fourth year. With just over a week to go organisers have been begging woodland warriors to 'only tell your best friends' to keep Farr Festival 2013 one of the summers best kept secrets.
The line up has been cherry picked from some of London's best underground house, disco and electro scenes including London collective Troupe responsible for sell out nights at XOYO, South London Ordinance, The Martinez Brothers, Ben Pearce and Waif and Strays to name a few.
Not content with the magical woodland setting and feel good tunes reverberating from a funktion 1 sound system, fancy dress, flying circus, beach bar complete with sand and palm trees, yoga classes, massage areas, fairground rides and secret sets in a fox hole are also lined up to keep revellers entertained over the weekend.
Farr are even putting on Disco Busses from East and West London to the site, so you can make some newfound festival chums and dance on the way to your surbuban party paradise in under two hours.
The conception of Secret Garden party back in 2004 was of a similar boutique and magical scale, so watch this space for a review as Farr could well be the next big festival thing.
Cake who are organising some of the daytime party have limited discounted tickets here otherwise you can still get your hands on full price weekend from the official Farr Festival site.
The Beau Homme SS14 presentation previewed its collection in political style, entitled ‘modernist anarchy’ the smartly dressed models adorned in primary colours, metallic’s and pastels protested for their rights to be dapper.
Circling the White Rabbit Studios with placards, this presentation was a fashion protest with some serious meaning. Campaigning for ‘a living wage’, models stomped with signs of ‘tax the rich’, ‘end corporate control’, and ‘men’s dress reform party’ using the designers re working of traditionally cut blazer and trouser shapes to lead a satorial antiestablishmentarianism.
The clothes were anything but taxing, it is nice when designers are subtly different but wearable, not excluding the customer who does want to stick two fingers up to the Arcadia establishment, but is adverse from lycra crop tops and 24 carat gold diamond panda encrusted hollagram 3D snapbacks.
Continuing with the theme of ‘destroying the main conceptions of architecture’ Beau Homme redesigned separates in colour and form; carrot orange and light moss green blazers with a 3D body were well designed, matched with brilliantly tailored beige or midnight blue trousers featuring an added sash of fabric to the derrière, which gave each step a more exclusive twist.
The use of colour and fabric was notable, standouts was a slate grey suit matched with a bee stung yellow shirt but the hero piece of the protest had to be the bomber with dark grey body and psycadellic silver shiny sleeves for the street spaceman, a reinvention of the classic granddad bomber.
The protest quickly unfolded into anarchy, models stripped, danced and showered the crowd in champagne, which was uncomfortable viewing not for the actions, but the genuine fear of staining the lovely salmon tailored shorts and snow white trousers.
Ben Pearce is probably best associated with your ears in the form of his smash hit 'What I might do' which spread like wildfire across XOYO club sets, festivals and airwaves to commerciality where it was even dropped by Annie Mac in Oceana's across the country. I caught up with the Mancunian DJ, producer and creative director for a quick chat in between his car breaking down on the way to Love System festival in Croatia and ahead of his first ever 'prim and proper' gig west of East London.
I know your super busy on the festival circuit this summer, do you think it is important to play at smaller lesser known festivals than the big names your booked for like Glastonbury?
Yeah I think it’s really important, even though I’m doing some of the bigger festivals too I think the smaller ones give artists more of a chance and a platform to play and establish themselves, as I would never of been booked for the bigger ones had I not had the chance to play at smaller, more boutique festivals. They also sometimes have a quirkier more intimate atmosphere and you can find yourself playing in more interesting places, such as in the middle of a forest in between the trees, rather than a big stage or tent.
Obviously your single 'What I Might Do' was huge, I have come across 10 remixes so far but I am sure there is more, does it annoy you that so many people have reworked your material or do you take it as a compliment?
It doesn’t annoy me as such as I do it to so many people myself, although there was a lot of unofficial remixes, Daft Punk vs What I Might Do bootleg that was really terrible and didn’t work at all. If you are going to do it do it properly!
What do you think made this house track so commercially successful?
I think probably the vocals were really striking and that’s what made the song so recognisable, as people like Disclosure have had really big chart success from using tracks that have big vocals rather than just focusing on the production.
You are creative director at record label Purp and Soul, how easy do you think it is these days for young artists to set up their own record label?
I think it’s really easy, it’s really great way of having the creative control and platform of where your music wants to go as well and experiment with lots of different mixes and sounds and too, I think that it's great it's so easy for people too, we just set up a tumblr for the site which was really easy, and away we were really.
Do you get asked to do a lot of remixes yourself, which has been the most surprising one, turned any down?
A lot go through my management so I suppose the rubbish ones get filtered out! I can’t give too much away though.
Quite a few clothing labels like to be associated with a certain type of music as they think it benefits their brand, have you been approached by many designers to wear their stuff?
I have a friend who runs a store in Manchester called MenikMati, they do some really nice stuff and I often wear their T-shirts when I’m playing. But I would like to wear some more stuff from Glamour Kills and I love Ugly too if I could choose someone to sponsor me!
I heard that you really like cooking, would you ever consider doing a Mr Scruff and using your label as a platform to launch a restaurant, or culinary business?
I have actually thought about it, I do really enjoy cooking, I cooked last night actually, I made a brilliant Paella and have just made a pea mousse. But I would really like to do something with craft beers, but perhaps I’ll wait till the music sells out first, something to think about when I’m a little bit older!
London quickfire round:
Favourite place to party in London? Fabric
Favourite place to DJ? Brixton Club House
Best place to eat? Anywhere that sells Thai food! And the Shoreditch Butchery
Best place to pick up fresh trainers/clothes? Anywhere East London, the Brick Lane area
Best place to chill? The Horse and Groom pub
Best place for a date? I didn’t actually go here, but a friend told me once they went to a restraunt where you have to walk through an adult sex store in Soho to get to it, which seemed to be a pretty good idea to me as everything is already on the table so there can’t be any more akward moments for suggestion!