Tag: tailoring

ON|OFF returned for its 15th annual showcase at London Fashion Week 2017, presenting the seasons’ three most exciting international talents: Jack Irving, Luke Anthony Rooney and CAPLANENTWISLE.

To kick off what would prove to be one of the most diverse catwalks of the week, the ON|OFF showcase took on the invigorating atmosphere of a music concert, thanks live a performance from the equally rising talents of London based indie-pop band, Stereo Honey.

 

First out on the catwalk was the SS18 collection “Resort”, by CAPLANENTWISLE. Adam Entwisle and Emma Caplan joined forces after graduating from Central St Martins in 1999, going on to found not one, but two cult labels, Horace and Buddhist punk as famously worn by The Rolling Stones.

Now, the eponymous design team return, with a collection inspired by the reformed millennial attitude toward freedom and diversity. Oversized jackets, frayed hems and hand-painted denim infused the collection with that raw, unrefined sense of reckless youth. A mood surmised by the classic-cut slogan tee professing, ‘we are all colour here’.

Luke Anthony Rooney’s signature colourful designs followed on seamlessly. Less rough-and-ready around the edges perhaps, Rooney’s SS18 collection continued the relaxed vision of millennial society.

Silk slip dresses and easy-fit tailoring provided a sophisticated sense of elegance, light, airy fabrics creating a sense of movement, while the playful use of colour and simple hair and makeup styling, added to the youthful feel of the collection.

Jack Irving brought something a touch more extravagant to the catwalk. Having famously designed for Lady Gaga, Irving’s blow-up designs can certainly not be classed as ready-to-wear…

We can’t be certain where Iriving gets his inspiration for these avant-garde pieces, but whether he’s an avid deep-sea diver or got abducted by aliens as a child, his SS18 designs are nothing short of fabulous.

From metallic warrior-esque body-suits, to what looked like inflatable anemones, his models both shocked and commanded the catwalk in incredible platform heels.

There’s no doubt that ON|OFF presents has this year succeeded in promoting three soon-to-be dominating design talents.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Eudon Choi’s SS18 collection might have been showcased in an intimate studio space at The Store, but the designers’ overseas inspirations succeeded in imagining that modernist French Villa from which he drew his inspiration.

Inspired by Eileen Gray’s coastal retreat, Choi’s architectural influences were marked by the strong emphasis he placed on structure; the contrast of clean necklines with asymmetric frills and bishop sleeves giving classic masculine tailoring a feminine edge.

The show kicked off to a steady beat in monochrome. Straight-cut tailoring and longline shift dresses, lifted by a splash of colour-blocking from the accessories: vibrant shoes or stylised cylinder bags hung in military fashion.

Coastal influences came into play with a slight change in the colour scheme, as black-on-white took a turn for sea-breeze blues and varying shades of white. Nautical stripes in laid-back cotton, giving refined air to relaxed fit of the designs – that French-girl styling, both acutely tomboy and effortlessly feminine.

No-fuss necklines, featured a distinct lack of collars in favour of a clean, minimalist look, emphasised by the wash of pale blues and whites.

This stripped back approach was complimented by the au-natural hair and make-up, allowing the eye to focus completely on the shape and structure of the designs. The only abstract allusion to the structural theme, that jagged eyeliner, elongated straight out toward the temple.

Lightweight cotton jackets prevail into next season, with tailoring becoming more casual and our suits becoming far less work, and far more play.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Chester Barrie, a modern Savile Row British menswear brand, showcased their AW17 collection at Smith & Wollensky. Most of the collection was modelled on mannequins, with a few male models at one end of the room casually showcasing the beautifully tailored designs. Canapés and drinks circled the room, whilst a small orchestra played in the corner, complementing the atmosphere effortlessly.

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If you're looking for a brand that has experience in ready-to-wear tailoring, Chester Barrie is the place to go. Founded in 1935 by Simon Ackerman, Chester Barrie took up their place on London’s Savile Row just two years later in 1937 and has been there ever since.

Classic tailoring, beautiful fabrics and fine attention to detail, are some of the traits that attract people to this brand. These traits are all seen in this collection from the tartan prints to the velvet detailing. Each piece had touches of uniqueness while holding onto the high quality design the brand is famous for.

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Attracting celebrities such as Dermot O’Leary, Darren Kennedy and Tom Daley, you know this AW17 collection from Chester Barrie is as much about style as it is quality.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Everyone loves a bit of a fashion party, so 180 The Strand was the place to be seen on Saturday night as Casely-Hayford celebrated creative director Joe’s thirty years in the industry with their AW17 show. Promising highlights from the last three decades of the JCH collection, we couldn’t wait to see how our favourite trends would be reimagined on the catwalk.

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More is most definitely more for the father-son design duo, with each outfit intricately made up of multiple layers and textures. Roll-neck jumpers peeked out from underneath blazers, topped off by long wool coats; shiny parkas sat top fleecy pullovers and loose linen trousers. Colours were cool and calm, mostly tonal variations of dark grey and navy, contrasting with the colour pop trainers crafted by Helen Kirkum for the collection.

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After dipping their toe in the water last season, the boys introduced a complete ready-to-wear women’s collection this year, taking apart the elements of feminine fashion and reconstructing them into new silhouettes. Jackets become underwear, tops became scarves and knitwear melded into each other to become brand new items of clothing, all set against a backdrop of sleek tailoring.

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The Casely-Hayford man and woman are ready for whatever comes at them in the (let’s face it, quite uncertain) year ahead, taking the what they’ve learned and bringing it together into beautifully constructed outfits.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photography|@tegan.photography

 

International luxury fashion brand, Velsvoir, is known for specialising in accessories: bow ties, pocket squares, ties and lapel braces. The label only started in 2012 and was voted Best Regional Menswear Designer by 2014. The brand is based between London and Dubai and was the creative concoction of three brothers who "accidentally" reinvented the bow tie.

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The live presentation for their AW15 collection took place at London's Edition Hotel, in a chic, dimly lit bar. The venue reflected both the swanky, luxurious feel of the collection as well as the deep blue and black colour scheme. Models stood under spotlights on small sets made up of armchairs and glass tables with sophisticated floral arrangements by Yan Skates.

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The collection took inspiration from crisp winter days bathed in sunlight. This can be seen in crisp, sharp tailoring and colour story. The Velsvoir man is all about modern luxury, wearing striped shirts, bow ties, waistcoats and slim-fit trousers. The outfits were accessorised with limited edition prints from Russian artist, Gregory Emvy. Velsvoir caters to clientele seeking exclusively crafted and distinctive products.

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Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @Sunna_Naseer
Images: Prexa S | Fashion Week Photographer |