Tag: SS18

Phoebe English is first and foremost a craftsman within her trade. Just by looking at her men's and women's collections, it is always clear to see that her ethos is to not only create art but to engineer every aspect of it. The young designer is also a passionate advocate of underappreciated and sometimes even lost construction techniques. So it is always a fascinating experience to be able to learn about these processes that take place very often away from prying public eyes.

For SS18 English presented a collection that works closely with another long-standing craft: Puppets.

With models lining the room in English's visions for SS18, standing along side them were puppets (also named marionettes) hanging from strings and wearing miniature versions of each piece. In a theatrical sense, this setting was reminiscent of a Tim Burton film with dark romantic undertones cutting through. The faceless puppets mimicking their human twins were charming and yet hauntingly striking. The lighting, which created shadows throughout the room, heightened the dramatic air and drew attention to the careful construction of each piece.

Marionettes were not only used for dramatic effect, their entry into the SS18 collection was whole-heartedly a way for English to show the foundations of her craft and pay homage to the past techniques of design. It is this simplicity of her silhouettes, cuts and monochromatic colour palette that lets the eye see past whatever may be on the surface and truly look to the finer details. Details such as the careful draping of fabrics and textured knots of black bra- like tops, on top of clean-cut white shirts.

Muslin and poplin materials are overlayed with mesh and tulle that give textured feel, making the clothes unreservedly wearable but gives them that stand-out quality.

It was this clever decision to duplicate the designs which show just how adaptable fashion can be. Be it on the smaller scale, on a puppet for a showcase with an edgy punch. Or the life-sized version that will be worn by people within their daily lives over the coming season.

English pulled the strings behind-the-scenes to showcase her dark fairy-tale at London Fashion Week. Like all good fairy-tales its important to look to the message beneath the surface. In this case English's message is simple: We should all take the time to admire the methods that go into creating our favourite styles. After all fashion is above all else an enduring craft.

 

Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press| @londonellagram

images: Rosemary Pitts| Fashion Week Photography| @rosemarypitts

Next generation utility-wear with an athletic vibe. Dumpty’s SS18 collection made functional, fashionable at LFW2017.

The Dumpty SS18 models stepped out with attitude on Monday morning, showcasing this to a pulsating electronic beat.

This unisex collection, used synthetic fabrics to create durable pieces which appear both functional and highly wearable, with playful cut-outs and asymmetric styling, giving the collection a 90’s kid edge.

White, black and orange provided a solid base to the outfits, while greens and greys occasionally dressed down the utility tone. Pink, a seasonal spring favourite, made a cheeky appearance, contrasted with a black, leather-look jacket to give the look a tougher aesthetic.

The incorporation of high sport socks and mint-green trainers gave the whole collection an athletic vibe, complemented by the slicked back hair and grungy bare-face styling. The casual added branding of “dumpty” stamped across the forehead of each model, an added quirk which spoke to the bold and mischievous personality of the brand.

Zips, Velcro and oversized pockets statemented the pieces, while accessories were alternatively worn with bun-bags fasted across the chest, their straps made from what looked like car seat-belts, an innovative supplement to the practical feel of the collection.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Presented against the simple backdrop of the Fashion Scout show space at the Freemason’s Hall; Theo VII Studio’s SS18 collection, named The Animist, drew inspiration from the Maasai culture, a Nilotic ethnic tribe inhabiting parts of Kenya and Tanzania. According to show notes, Maasai means 'to plead with' the outside world to understand that not only one way leads to true happiness and freedom.

In a current social and political climate in which a harbouring of mistrust and intolerance toward different cultures surfaces, a call for tolerance and harmonious pluralism felt extremely apt.

The collection drew upon the traditional styles of the Maasai people whilst combining elements of menswear and womenswear, working to break barriers between gender; a key aspect of the label’s ethos. Amongst the looks were a selection of crisp white dresses, shirts and loose fitting trousers, taking inspiration from ‘Shuka’ – the traditional Maa style of wrapping sheets around the body. Stripes and checks featured heavily, with an orange and green check suit being amongst one of the strongest pieces in the collection. Other strong, and very commercial, pieces include a stone trench with cobalt blue lapels and tailored jackets reworked as wrap dresses and styled with sandals, which could equally be worn as part of a suit.


Theo VII have introduced footwear and accessories this season: in keeping with the Maasai tradition, these included sandals and bags, both woven with beaded jewellery.


The Animist was deliberately minimal in terms of design to reflect the primitive lifestyle of the Maasai people; but compared to the label’s previous collections – despite having a poignant message, it unfortunately also felt very minimal and somewhat underwhelming in terms of ideas.

Words: Lucy Hardy | Fashion Week Press | @lula_har

Images: Sarah Mildred | Fashion Week Photographer | @sarah_mildred www.sarahmildred.com

In a continuation of her exploration of “the future lady” and what it means to be a strong, courageous woman, Edeline Lee drew inspiration from the work of Georgia O’Keeffe for her Spring/Summer 18 presentation. Lee had travelled to New Mexico; encountering the landscapes that inspired much of O’Keeffe’s work and felt compelled to examine the idea of the feminine courage that led O’Keeffe to find her place in the world amongst the mountains of the New Mexico desert.

Lee stated that she “wanted to connect to the vulnerability and the strength at the core of every woman.”

So what does it look like to be a strong woman of today? Lee explores female courage and strength whilst pertaining to traditionally feminine silhouettes. In exploring female strength there can be a tendency amongst designers to veer toward more masculine tailoring, harsh shapes, dark colours and tough fabrics (think 80s power dressing). However, Lee’s focus is on traditional feminine shapes, soft colours and fabrics.

Dresses came in her signature flou bubble jacquard in blush, cerulean blue, nude and ivory. Cotton voile was embroidered with chain-stitched sentences from O’Keeffe’s letters such as, “I feel like myself again and I like it.” Sublimely elegant tailoring was accentuated with twists, ties and knots. Abstract shapes inspired by O’Keeffe’s iconic flowers were juxtaposed against smooth feminine lines. Lee’s signature extreme long length sleeves featured on grey jersey sweatshirts and cotton pieces with stand-out buttons.

As a collection that aims to represent women the presentation can be criticised for not featuring a range of body shapes. However, included were several looks with models in hijabs, showcasing an excellent example of how modest fashion can be incorporated into high fashion - and for this statement of inclusivity Lee must be commended.

Whether or not this collection is truly indicative of what women - present or future, want to wear, in terms of construction and elegant beauty Lee’s work was rather moving and quite possibly some of her best yet.

Words: Lucy Hardy | Fashion Week Press | @lula_har

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Perhaps the most sophisticated show of the weekend, Rohmir not only showcased the weeks youngest fashion stars, welcoming three adorable child models to the catwalk, but was stepped out to a live operatic performance.  

A-line Wedding Dresses

Setting out to capture the passion of classic Italian beauty, Rohmir’s SS18 collection entitled “Sparkling”, boasts yet another line of timeless ready-to-wear pieces which scream out nobility and class.

Ball Gown Wedding Dresses

 

The SS18 colour palette remained simple, yet sophisticated; with navy and cream, meeting midnight and sky blues. Rohmir favours v-neck or crew-cut necklines, her dresses classically tailored to create a sleek finish which compliments the female silhouette.

Adding to the aura of elegance and glamour, Rohmir’s SS collection keeps its “Sparkling” promise, with beads and sequins studding the gowns and decorating the hemlines, while side-slit skirts and open backs give the collection a touch of risqué.

A stand-out piece came in the form a beautiful white wrap-around gown, one of two pieces decorated from top to toe in delicate applique flowers.

Ruffled collars and flared sleeves were just a couple more standout features of the collection, which was not simply walked, but theatrically performed by its talented cast of models, beautifully made up with 30s inspired hair and classic smoky eyes credit to Kryolan UK and Tony and Guy.

Confidently showcased, designer Olga Roh put on a truly outstanding showcase on every level of detail, earning herself a celebratory walk of the runway in one of her own stunning designs.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Sarah Mildred | Fashion Week Photographer | @Sarah_Mildred