Tag: SS16

Following a blur of shows, clothes and parties, the last day of LFW SS16 has come. Show-goers, bloggers and general fashion appreciators descended on Brewer Street for the last time this season. And boy did they have to wrap up as, in true British style, the heavens opened.

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Maroon appears to have been the colour du jour, especially in outerwear, with Made in Chelsea's Proudlock channelling the shade in sartorial style.

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Following its summer success, suede is continuing its time in the spotlight for autumn, providing warmth in the form of hats and coats. And that's not the only 70s inspiration to make it through into the new season. Denim was everywhere; flared, with patches and frayed cuffs.

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Knitwear, too, is starting to arrive to protect against the September chill, and this season, it has to be ribbed - you heard it here first. Burberry model Neelam Gill, on her way to the Ashish catwalk show, kept warm in a black cropped jumper with eyelet side detail.

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Yet undeterred by the constant drizzle, oversize sunglasses remained a popular accessory - after all, fashion week couldn't be fashion week without them, whatever the weather.

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Until next season LFW, you've been fabulous.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeachey

Toga's LFW runway debut was a feast of sumptuous textures and ornate finishes as models meandered through flowering trees.

 

The rich palette included fiery red, varying shades of blue and splashes of green, pink and even yellow, with the odd flash of decadent gold. Vibrant poppy prints extend down one side of a complex, layered maxi skirt and tunic two piece as pleats and folds lend themselves to a look that hangs beautifully.

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It’s the precision of the cutting and the fabrics used that makes each look so different from the last. Bold ruffles and soft frills sit alongside pleated tulle and abstract, arty prints, used sparingly, whilst embroidery lends an ethereal edge to flowing skirts that float around slender ankles.

The construction of each look is highly complex, requiring great amounts of skill to produce. Fabric wraps around the models’ torsos and hangs from hips to fall in varying lengths, with asymmetry extending throughout each look from shoulder to hem.

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The theme of the collection is “Petals, Minerals, Squiggles” and is meant to evoke the mystery of nature, drawing inspiration from it rather than replicating it more obviously. The swish of embroidered tulle recalls the delicately floating tentacles of a jellyfish and the various materials are collated and bonded haphazardly, like clumps of seaweed washed ashore.

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There’s a certain kind of disorderly unpredictability about the collection, and indeed its vastness is like a coral reef in itself, with many different beautiful aspects coming together like an ecosystem, synchronising and working unexpectedly. The only difference here is that this system is no accident, no feat of nature, and Toga’s founder Yasuko Furuta seems to have an eye for an organised kind of chaos that we can’t wait to see more of.

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Words: Alice Hudson | Fashion Week Press | @aliceehudson

Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeachey

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Focusing on producing a tangible visualisation of the emotional experience of cathartic pain release, Marko Mitanovski designed a collection in collaboration with four sculptors which was heavily horror influenced with rigid forms and a dark presence. Inspired by the ability to show pain and fear seen in Munch’s “The Scream” and Alfred Hitchcock's “The Birds” and “Psycho”, the collection was predominantly black, with shimmers of silver and reflective beading, taking place in the Freemason’s Hall.

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The collection was also inspired by the amorphous forms found in nature, which could be seen in the rock-like surfaces of some of the pieces, with their uneven shape giving the appearance of wearable stalactite growths. The headpieces in the show highlighted this the most, covering the models faces and including pieces that dangled from the side and connected to the clothing. The combination of dark colours and shapes that were almost free of form made for a vivid yet grim collection.

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Organic material was replicated using leather, latex and precise, geometrical lines which created architectural structures alongside technically detailed construction, and shapes that were formed to the body; ribbed materials that looked like exoskeletons, some with with faces bursting out of the chest, making the collection quite alien-like and reminiscent of the work of H R Giger, 

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Short corseted dresses were paired with black bandages wrapped around the leg, starting from where the dress stopped, and open cross stitching exposed the sides of some dresses creating a costume that would be fit in any horror genre.

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Words: Andre Bogues | Fashion Week Press | @andredevb

Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeachey

L’Amitie’s SS16 collection combined loose fitting, flowing materials with detailed embroidery, asymmetrical lines and tied belts. With flecks of gold and silver embellishments on the cuffs and around the neckline of silk and translucent materials, the collection kept a less is more approach, while sharp lines injected a modern feel.  

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The collection was titled “TRANSCENDENCE” and addresses the concept of focusing on abstract elements that are taken from the past and the present, to create something timeless. Taking inspiration from installation artists  John-Paul Philippe, whose integration of geometric shapes and curved lines can be seen influencing some of the rich patterns within the collection, with their intertwining lines and figures. It also drew from Italian architect Carlo Scarpa and his ability to construct breathtaking pieces using irregular unions of shapes.

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A minimal colour palette of black, white, lilacs, blues and deep reds was paired with soft dewy make-up featuring icy cool colours centred around the eyes and cheeks, that gave the collection a jewel-toned atmosphere, amplified by the attention to detail in the placing of accessories such as necklaces and large, decorative pins.

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Classical H-shaped silhouettes were reworked with sleek, streamlined finishes and side splits creating delicate and elegant lines. Minimalist tailoring was seen in pieces such as a wide-legged trouser that trailed on the floor, with a slight pleat that raised the hem and created a unique shape. The show also featured pyjama robes and shirt-dresses that brought the collection into uniform by the ease of silhouettes seen among the show.

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Words: Andre Bogues | Fashion Week Press | @andredevb

Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photographer

Still in the process of knitting a pair of the adorable shark mittens from his AW15 collaboration with Wool and the Gang, I was impatient to enter the BFC Showspace to see what Christopher Raeburn had in store for us for SS16. Drumming, tribal music announced the arrival of the collection, named, wonderfully onomatopoeically, Sarawak. The clothes were fluid, dynamic as the models moved, and full of texture. Inspired by both real and imagined female explorers in the jungle of Borneo, the designs were utilitarian and practical, but in sheer light fabrics and cinched at the waist, adding femininity to practicality.

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Oversize jacquard bumbags sit on lower backs - useful for the modern explorer - but tied on with fabric belts which become part of the outfit, emphasising the female form. The colour palette, too, spoke of the theme; khakis and olives in heavier fabrics contrasted with sky blue and cloud white, blocked on organzas and decorating jackets.

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Raeburn is renowned for the sustainability which forms the core of each collection, and this season was no exception. Black and white air brake parachutes, with their chequered pattern, found themselves on the catwalk as distinctive outerwear. This pattern appeared again on tops, skirts and trousers, this time as silk edging from British mill Vanners, creating cut-out silhouettes.

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Long-time fan of a good collaboration, Raeburn has worked with two brands once again this season. Shoes from footwear experts Clarks walked down the catwalk, wrapping feet in tonal materials to form sensible yet very covetable sandals. Lightweight knitwear developed with revolutionary knitwear company Knyttan also appeared, featuring signature graphics from the collection.

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Explorers negotiate unknown environments, taking everything in their stride, which is exactly what the Sarawak woman embodies. She is able to adapt to any situation in style, looking sultry but also prepared for whatever she may find in her path. Raeburn has once again combined clever inspiration with innovation and sustainability to create an impeccable collection for next season.

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Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeachey