Tag: SS16

As you may have noticed by now, WJ London were down on the ground at London Collections: Men for the SS16 showcase, reporting on the shows to know and the designers to remember. However, London is known for a little more than what simply appears on the catwalk, with our city boasting some of the finest and most unique street style the world over.  Thanks to our decidedly multicultural offering and independent approach to aesthetics, there really is nothing quite like it when it comes to those who wander our fair city streets.  For this season, tailoring has taken on a more relaxed form, adapting to the lifestyles of the modern men who wear it. As always, the spotlight fell on sportswear with flair, whether that be smartened up or stripped back. Ultimately, for the London gent, the key is in the contrast.

 

1. Day 1
5. Day 62. Day 1 3. Day 1 4. Day 1  6. Day 1 7. Day 1 8. Day 1

 

 

Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Images: Dominika Wojciechowska | Fashion Week Photographer | @dominikawojciechowska

'Its a harmony but harmony on the edge' remarks Oliver Spencer backstage at his SS'16 collection. Indeed it was, as a 'harmonious discord' was present throughout the show through patterns, models and music. Oliver Spencer is never one to shy away from the norm and in this collection,  he took his signature 'scruff' and yet again, proved that scruff is not so much a style, but a necessity. This time, Spencer took inspiration from minimalist sculptor Richard Serra's early sculptures. Constructed with industrial materials such as fiberglass, rubber and molten lead, Serra's sculptures deviated away from traditional clay and were highly unusual when he started in 1966. This spirit can be seen through Spencer's collection as 'fashion rules' go out the window and clash is where the harmony lies.

 

7I2A2573 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie

 

'We're prepared to bounce things off each other, a little clashing and just literally putting things together that shouldn't be together' Spencer says. Clash is explored through colour, print and length. An almond, red and green check button up is layered underneath a red tartan bomber jacket, whilst a Saville Row-esque cream blazer is paired with long bermuda shorts. Not only limited to silhouette but patterns were extended far past the 'one piece only' rule, a multicoloured red and orange plaid button up was layered underneath a fully red plaid bomber jacket, complete with a gold zip. Another outfit extended pattern with a head to toe floral button up and trouser against a black canvas. With Spencer taking inspiration from Serra, textures were mixed with rich leather backpacks against military green parkas. 'You should be trying to make it clash and to make it not happen and if you're not making it, its not happening.' Spencer firmly said as he emphasised the importance of exploring differences and bringing them together.

 

7I2A2561 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie

7I2A2600 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie

 

Music is a key ingredient in Spencer's  'harmonious discord' and Q strings, a sister string quartet supplied the music live on stage. 'It makes it a moment and thats what we do. From our models, from our live music, everything. It doesn't come without risk,' Oliver explained. 'That was a clash in itself,  a string quartet playing an electronic tune.' Music continues to be the root of his inspiration. 'Right back to Stop Making Sense by Talking Sense (1984), which is one my favourite ever albums, all the way through to what Tinie's (Tinie Tempah) up to at the moment,' he mentions. 'Music is endlessly important to me.'

 

7I2A2794 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie      7I2A2617 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie

Never one to shy from archetypes, Spencer runway brought a variety of people onto the catwalk including model Sang Woo Kim, Chinese actor Hubing and interior designer Tom Pande.'Thats about bringing old, young and different style, different characters all on one runway. Its really important.' remarked Spencer. 'My target audience are very much into the creative industry, they're into art, they're into texture, they're into textile and they love this type of thing.'

 

7I2A2826 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie

 

With a melting pot of mixtures evident in the show, its fitting that it be in London. 'Without wanting to be too "london", I think London right now is creatively where its all happening.' Spencer remarks.

Unapologetic, undoubtedly individual, Oliver Spencer reminds the modern man that there is indeed a system in a madness of matters.

 

7I2A2889 en tant qu'objet dynamique - 1 copie

Words: Natalie Chui | Fashion Week Press | @the_nat_pack

Image: Céline Castillon| Fashion Week Photography | @petitefable

Mr Hare made the bold move this season to move from footwear to a ready-to-wear collection for Spring/Summer 2016. Founded in 2008 Mr Hare is known for it’s unique and modern take on Italian-made footwear, now the brand is ready to expand and show just how you should style those shoes!

Titled ’The People’s Democratic Republic of the Future’ inspiring the red white and blue colour palette and very practical modern designs. These pieces are bold yet low maintenance, something that you won’t want to shy away from.

238362 238363 238365 238369 238371  238367

Walking into the building the first room presented a Mr Hare film, a BFC Fashion Film Screening in association with River Island hosted by Rollacoaster, before being taken through to view the collection. Consisting of a number of statement pieces including a smokers jacket, mens leggings and woven sliders, Marc Hare proved he could create clothing to the same high standard as his shoes. However the number one piece for this collection had to be the red and black woven sliders which had everyone tweeting!

This may be the first ready-to-wear collection from Mr Hare but we certainly hope it won’t be the last.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Sibling’s love for shocking the audience is well known, and their SS16 collection didn’t disappoint. Starting off tame with tailored suits, wool jumpers printed in swirls and cropped trousers soon moved into their “All American Jock” theme with a true Sibling touch.

 

011

 

As the first few pieces came out you could have been tricked into thinking Sibling had turned over a new leaf, but then the prints became more striking and the styles more outrageous, which couldn't stop more than a few people from giggling. Soon appeared the jock straps first under tight sheer leggings which moved into pieces of their own, a hint of bum with low cut trousers, strappy corsets and boxer shorts.

009

Male models were accompanied by a few pieces of womenswear to complement the jock influenced collection, oversized pom poms carried by both down the runway, bringing cheerleading into the mix. Dressed in the same vibrant prints, wearing knitted dresses and American football inspired trousers. Sequin football shirts and raffia trim parka jackets were also statement pieces in this collection.

005 008
004 006

This collection takes their American college football concept and keeps the cheeky yet classic knitwear Sibling are known and loved for.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

Nasir Mazhar's troupe were back; but softer, more poetic than before. They were artists, layered in ghostly sheers and with HB pencils tucked into hats; and they were goths, in coats that billowed as capes and with deathly black stamped-on lips. A darkly enchanting narrative woven into signature sports shapes and cut away flesh.

The trademark branding was quieter, reserved to waistbands and hidden in lengths. Familiar contours were there too, updated and softened with ruched fabrics and a romantic edge; ball gown puffed sleeves and over-sized bows treading the line between girly-sweet and bold silhouettes. One skirt ruffled around the tops of thighs as black petals, then cut away to be held with garter straps, revealing flesh and shapely curves beneath.
Menswear was military, aggressive shapes over bulking muscles and iterations of camouflage in the same sorrowful blacks. The swirls of colour from previous seasons were gone, somber tones instead lifted by hair like silver shimmer on fabrics as though paint peeling from gritty walls beneath.

The sexualisation of gender codes remained however; overtly masculine and feminine shapes revealed biceps and brawn, were cut low or cut out to show shapely feminine form. Cast from social media, the models were diverse, realistic and relatable - a gang of Mazhir fans stomping down the runway to the sounds of next-gen grime producer Preditah.

Words: Anna Claire Sanders | Fashion Week Press | @sannanders
Pictures: Céline Castillon | Fashion Week Photographer