Tag: SS16

Having seen Angel Chen at Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch last season, I was excited to be sat front row for her very own catwalk show in Freemason’s Hall.

I remembered her AW15 collection as being floaty and romantic, so the loud drumming music and aggressive models, strutting out together onto the stage to pose in a gang of neon pink, surprised me, pleasantly overwhelming my senses.

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Androgyny was the name of the game, with Chen once again using a mix of male and female models to march her designs down the runway. Loose, ragged cuts draped over bodies, contrasting with structured metallic blazers and suits.

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Perhaps the most interesting part of the collection were the unusual headdresses worn by some of the models; pink, woven and covering all of the models faces, sometimes with a tube extending out from the front of their face, allowing them to see.

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There was a distinctly punky vibe to proceedings; the models were fierce in attitude, sporting Angel Chen tattoos on arms and necks, and even under eyes and on faces. Fishnets covered shoes, or shoes were totally absent, replaced by socks. The music reflected this feeling, one memorable lyric being ‘ejaculate it’, and the final walk saw all of the looks appearing back on the runway to The Dead Weather’s famously sulty I Can’t Hear You.

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The transformation that Chen has gone through in the past six months is incredible, and certainly promised of amazing things to come. I, for one, will be watching with bated breath in February to see where she goes next.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Prom Dress: lilybridal| @misskatebennett

Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photograher

Gyo Yuni Kimchoe fused punk sensibility with Buddhist iconography and a heavy helping of sustainability.

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The show begins with atmospheric soundscapes in a darkened room before a guitar riff signals the illumination of the catwalk. The music is heavy (seriously, think Rammstein) and models’ hair is gelled into makeshift mohawks to complement the distressed aesthetic. Pinstriped tailoring is worn down to reveal fraying denim, patches of varying materials create a camouflage effect and heavily ornate septum rings hang from the models’ faces. The juxtaposition of Buddhist imagery and British rebel culture comes to a head with a studded leather jacket featuring a denim Buddha motif on the reverse, surrounded by metal studs. Whilst punks and Buddhists might seem like an odd combination, it’s the DIY, upcycled and recycled qualities that bind the two themes. Buddhist monks only wear recycled clothing whilst subcultures reinvent everyday objects and claim them as signifiers of their culture.

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The thick soled creeper shoes and deconstructed tailoring reminds us of Teddy Boy zoot suits, but reinvented and recut through asymmetric seams and unusual shapes. Military detailing also comes to play with long, double-breasted coats in earthy greens with gold hardware. In a political move and a more literal reference to sustainability, bags with newspaper and plastic bottles jutting out are slung over their shoulders in a reference to waste and recycling.

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As the show continues, embroidered brocade satins in deep jewel colours make an appearance, embellished with ruffled tulle jutting out from the hems and adding shape to hips with a flouncing finish. The bold technicolour creations are reminiscent of traditional, luxe Asian dress in an oriental take on eveningwear. As we enter the final phase of the show, light sheds on the title of the collection; ‘Enlightened Rebel,’ as draped garments hint at sacred dress. For the last look, the Korean duo presented a male model is draped in bright yellow, blue and red fabric with a large head piece that encircles his shaven head to leave a lasting impression of the ultimate religious image.

Words: Alice Hudson | Fashion Week Press | @aliceehudson

Images: Kaye Ford | Fashion Week Photographer | @fordtography

BCollide’s SS15 collection has a largely minimalist aesthetic, but it’s only when you look closely that you realise all is not quite as it seems.

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The title of the collection is ‘Offset’ and is a continuation of their debut collection ‘OCD Test’ but in new fabrics and colour ways. The idea is that the structured garments have details that would trigger the anxiety of a person living with Obsessive Compulsive Disorder and it’s once you realize this that you really begin to see why. The top stitching on chest pockets is displaced away from where it should be, a bralet features a tuck that you just want to yank down as if it was riding up, and pockets are spliced where the garment has been split into panels and shifted. It’s a clever way to subtly sublimate what we think of as a smartly tailored shirt or jacket. A navy wool coat features an orange trim to the hem, but only on the left hand side of the garment. Unfinished hems also pepper the collection, lending a raw quality that could otherwise be overlooked. The collection hangs on rails in the second floor window of The Hospital Club, backlit by the daylight to showcase the sheerness of the fabrics. Buildings in the background reflect the straight lines and rawness of the clothes themselves.

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The collection is accompanied by a short film, which begins with industrial scenes; cranes and building sites against a grey concrete backdrop, before a shot of the London skyline blurs in and out of focus. After this atmospheric intro, we see the models standing against large windows, the grey city backdrop still present. The clothes are largely white and navy with pops of orange which are all the more stark against the simple setting and shapes. Particularly eye catching is a two-piece in deep blue satin with billowing, perfectly tailored culottes, which, when paired with a tiny stark crop top leads to playful proportions. The model’s minimal make up and neat blonde bob fits in with the sparse styling as the camera pans in and out of the clothes.

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It’s the details of this collection that make it quirky and interesting, and yet it remains ultra wearable.

Words: Alice Hudson | Fashion Week Press | @aliceehudson

Images: Zac Mahrouche | Fashion Week Photographer | @ZMPhotos

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“A place of history, disbelief and everything that’s in-between; one can come to live the dream, and live it individually”

Harry Baker, Ode to Soho

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Day 1 of LFW is here and we are in Soho. That’s right, this season the fash pack have upped sticks, bidden farewell to the cobbles of Somerset House and set up camp in gloriously sleazy Soho. Turning onto Brewer Street, you are met with a heaving throng of colours, sights and sounds. Fashionistas spill off the pavements into the road, photographers duck between cabs stuck in traffic to get their perfect shot, press passes flutter in the breeze - all in the shadow of Brewer Street Carpark.

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A far cry from your local NCP, JJ Joass’ iconic carpark has quickly become synonmous with fashion, housing Henry Holland for his past two seasons and the International Fashion Showcase in February.

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Aside from being much more heel-friendly (tarmac as far as the eye can see), the venue is set to offer much more freedom to designers in terms of transforming the show space, allowing them to fully express their aesthetic identity.

And Soho offers no better setting for this new-look LFW. Well known as the creative capital of the city, it is richly vibrant in culture, entertainment and fashion, adding a new energy to proceedings.

     

We have yet to see how the designers’ shows will adapt to their new location, but one thing is for sure: they certainly won’t be dull. Vive le Soho freak.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Eloise Peachey  |  Fashion Week Press  |  @eloisepeachey

 

With London Fashion Week now just 1 week away, all eyes will soon be turning to the 2nd of the big four. This Season promises to be even more exciting as LFW adopts its new home within the Westend streets of lively Soho. Fashion week is an important time for designers to show the world what they're all about and for the rest of us to find out what trends we will most likely be spending a large proportion of our money on when the new season comes in. Aside from the catwalks though, street style is still an ever-growing phenomenon and a crucial part of fashion week. In many ways, it shows the world what the host city has to offer while demonstrating the creative flair of its people.

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London rightfully deserves its place in the prestigious fashion month line-up. In part, thanks to the wonders of the people, who often chance the unpredictable weather to show why British fashion is among the best in the world. (Yes, this may be a  biased opinion, but you know it's true). From good old Blighty's institution high-street to high-end chic, and from modern trends to vintage pieces; street style takes pride in producing the finest images and showing what it means to be a participant of the 21st Century fashion scene. It is often an eclectic mix of the bold, the beautiful....and the brave. Yes, that does mean some crazy styles along the way, but hey, Londoners embrace the weirdly wonderful. After all, its what makes this City oh-so unique. The most important thing street style aims to achieve however is to prove that fashion is all about individuality. After-all there really is no limits with style!

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So if you’re around the Soho area next week come along and see the wonders of London’s street style (in all its glitzy, glamorous and perhaps a little crazy, glory) for yourself.

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Words: Sophie Joaman | Fashion Week Press |

Images: Phoebe Fox | Fashion Week Photographer | @_phox_