Sudanese designer, Omer Asim, is known for his sculptural style, stemming from his years studying architecture at The Bartlett School of Architecture. His thought-provoking designs also come from his training as a psychoanalyst. It was during this time that he became intrigued by the relationship between the mind and clothing.
He has a passion for craft and experimental style, stating, "I un-design as much as I can to achieve a sense of imperfect beauty, something essentially human." Working with a seam elimination process, Asim strips back the fuss until he's left with a refined aesthetic.
Held inside a narrow showspace at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, London, Asim's AW16 collection was presented in the form of models posing in line; two at front sitting down with the models behind standing on increasingly raised platforms. The space was stark white and well-lit, focusing all attention on the masterfully draped outfits.
The palette was neutral, mostly black and white with accents of muted khaki, grey and midnight blue. The feel was androgynous with black brogue footwear and the additional use of a few male models wearing the womenswear collection. Faces were bare with heavy but natural looking brows and hair was plaited tight into a pixie style.
A draped theme was present with oversized hoods, shawl collars and jackets left to fall open naturally. Necklines and seams were square and angular which provided a strong structure for the more delicate details of pleated panels and sections of fringing.
The real beauty of the collection lay in the more subtle textiles, seen only at close inspection. A pair of laddered-effect black jeans with a plastic coated finish made an impression. Unfinished frayed edges added a tactile aspect to the clothing, lifting the fabric from being too perfect and complying with the labels raw aesthetic.
Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Courtesy of designer
The mammoth queue for Danielle Romeril's AW15 presentation suggested that there was a lot worth seeing inside. Boy, were they right. Romeril's dystopian vision was brought to life within Somerset House's presentation space. Amongst a scene of deconstruction and regeneration, the NEWGEN star's AW15 offering stood, silently screaming 'survival'. Earthy tones were prominent throughout, with the focus predominantly on grey, cream, black, nude and the welcome addition of blue tartan, whilst the silhouettes focused on themes of adaptation with garments reinvented by means of layering. Fabrics were heavy-duty - there's no place for delicacy in an anti-uptopian land - and shapes were perfectly executed. Swamped in textured layers, leather trims, blanket scarves and midi-lengths, the collection gave onlookers no doubt as to its intention: fit for a survivor, fit to a survivor.
Words by Daisy Keens | Writer | @pieandfash
Photography by Sebastian McCluskey | Fashion Photographer
Perception versus reality was the order of the day at Faustine Steinmetz's SS15 exhibition in London's ICA: "Since I left, I have been captivated by the outside perception of Paris as a chic and elegant city. I wanted to explore the perception of fashion... and the feeling it evokes." Steinmetz's spring/summer offering saw her signature artisan style prevail as deconstructed denim, white-on-white basics, heavily frayed tees and 'undone' co-ords were set against a black backdrop. Models stood still and poised upon rotating podiums under spotlights, imitating mannequins, amidst a hall of sporadically placed rails and stands featuring a scattering of Steinmetz's unraveled reality. "This collection explores the relationship between the product itself and the significance of its presentation", and the SS15 collection undeniably achieved this. The allure of dismantled denim was all too prominent when presented on the back of a model, in stark contrast to the near-miss of the un-modelled threads, hanging lifelessly from rails and bundled upon stands. As a crescendo takes over the room, the London Fashion Week masses decide one thing's for sure: disentangled duds will most certainly be hanging on our rails and off our backs throughout SS15. Fresh white sneakers mandatory.
Words: Daisy Keens | Fashion Week Press | @randyrecliner
Photos | Carl Tomkinson | Fashion Week Photographer | @carltomkinson