Tag: Phoebe English

Phoebe English is first and foremost a craftsman within her trade. Just by looking at her men's and women's collections, it is always clear to see that her ethos is to not only create art but to engineer every aspect of it. The young designer is also a passionate advocate of underappreciated and sometimes even lost construction techniques. So it is always a fascinating experience to be able to learn about these processes that take place very often away from prying public eyes.

For SS18 English presented a collection that works closely with another long-standing craft: Puppets.

With models lining the room in English's visions for SS18, standing along side them were puppets (also named marionettes) hanging from strings and wearing miniature versions of each piece. In a theatrical sense, this setting was reminiscent of a Tim Burton film with dark romantic undertones cutting through. The faceless puppets mimicking their human twins were charming and yet hauntingly striking. The lighting, which created shadows throughout the room, heightened the dramatic air and drew attention to the careful construction of each piece.

Marionettes were not only used for dramatic effect, their entry into the SS18 collection was whole-heartedly a way for English to show the foundations of her craft and pay homage to the past techniques of design. It is this simplicity of her silhouettes, cuts and monochromatic colour palette that lets the eye see past whatever may be on the surface and truly look to the finer details. Details such as the careful draping of fabrics and textured knots of black bra- like tops, on top of clean-cut white shirts.

Muslin and poplin materials are overlayed with mesh and tulle that give textured feel, making the clothes unreservedly wearable but gives them that stand-out quality.

It was this clever decision to duplicate the designs which show just how adaptable fashion can be. Be it on the smaller scale, on a puppet for a showcase with an edgy punch. Or the life-sized version that will be worn by people within their daily lives over the coming season.

English pulled the strings behind-the-scenes to showcase her dark fairy-tale at London Fashion Week. Like all good fairy-tales its important to look to the message beneath the surface. In this case English's message is simple: We should all take the time to admire the methods that go into creating our favourite styles. After all fashion is above all else an enduring craft.

 

Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press| @londonellagram

images: Rosemary Pitts| Fashion Week Photography| @rosemarypitts

Phoebe English presented a refreshing take on her utilitarian workwear aesthetic. Held in Fitzrovia Chapel, the collection mixed work with elements of nature and regality. Models stood in place amongst set pieces that complimented the intricate details of their outfits. Some models were adorned in a combination of earth and jewel tones, whilst others were fitted in monochromatic looks.

The collection was entitled Tyranny and was a reflection of the designers fear of our current uncertain geopolitical climate. Each look was entirely different, providing a commentary of different aspects of the world’s reaction to recent events. Models wore minimal makeup but had phrases written across their faces and hands, in the same colour as the central colour to the outfit they wore. The collection was split into different sections with models representing Hope, Unity, Tyranny, Fear, Apathy, Voice, Courage and Repair. A comic touch was seen in a blue ensemble, with a model's hair decorated with biro pens and deep blue ink stains around her mouth. This was contrasted with other pieces; another model, whose forehead had Courage written in gold, was dressed in a lavish golden jacquard print cape and gold leaf crown.

The collection utilised a loose fitting silhouette and a mixture of elemental colours such as a fiery red suit and an ivy green drop-shoulder dress.The set pieces matched the looks, with the green outfit being surrounded by foliage and the models hair fixed with leaves. Three models were connected by hair tie and wore matching white dresses with metallic material interrupting the fabric.

Words: Andre Bogues | Fashion Week Press | @andredevb
Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts_

Phoebe English, a luxury womenswear label, takes inspiration often from abstract origins. This season she decided to focus on the post-brexit reaction. This process inspired Phoebe English to create a seven piece collection, each design individually acting as a metaphor for what she felt surrounded the post-brexit feeling.

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Standing in a line, each model represented a different feeling or event Phoebe English felt emcompassed post brexit, all in an expressive and originally thought out way. An archer standing next to bunches of apples signified shock; a water bearer pouring water from a jug represented crying; a swashbuckling smugger symbolised lying; the enquirer with a stamp standing next to rolls of paper was the truth hunter; a strangler knotting ropes signified anxiety; and lastly a veiled mourner holding flowers expressed a feeling of loss. Each design was so well thought out from the clothing to the props each were accompanied with.

Black and white hues make up the majority of the colour palette, with gold and blue stripes thrown in. Slogans, being a style you won’t be able to stay away from this season, were slipped in. Only seen when you got close up, they included the word ‘travesty’ and 'all proportions are distorted by a small percent’. Asymmetric cuts and layering was something each piece had in common, with all these little touches turning stand alone metaphorical design come together into a stand out collection.

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All of Phoebe English’s designs are made exclusively in England, with uncompromising detail from start to finish. This ready to wear collection being no exception.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press|@andreaelizam

Images: Amie Charlot| Fashion Week Photography|@amiecharlot

Phoebe English's SS17 LCM presentation at the BFC show-space was dark and atmospheric, while the models peacefully embroidered, nonchalantly, casual in their manner. It was as if the guests in the room had stumbled upon a moment of personal reflection- as if they were looking in and witnessing the construction of new innovative and thought-provoking ideas.

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Phoebe English, renowned for her womenswear collections branched out into menswear in 2015 with the intention of uniting men and women's fashion and building bridges between the two, in order to explore the ways in which each influences the other. Her collections, while constantly borrowing features from previous showcases and evolving them, creates new forms of design that will surely, in time, inspire future collections.

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English's line was complete with hooded jackets, long smock tops, shirts and pyjama inspired pieces that complement her aesthetic. She featured over-sized silhouettes and utility wear that serves the principal purpose: to be functional as well as dynamic in design. It shows that English like many designers of the 21st century, is eager to establish new methods of fashion design. Her use of raw and natural materials, only further emphasises the edgy feel throughout the collection, which in turn brings about the idea that menswear doesn't have to be tailored and perfected- its okay if the hems are a bit longer and the look be more utilitarian.

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Phoebe English created an edgy and dramatic presentation, her first at LCM, and hopefully the first of many. Her borrowed elements from previous collections creates a patchwork of the strongest elements in her designs and stitches together a story of menswear in today's world. She creates a new uniform for the modern man with minimalism at the heart. From loose fitting pieces to over-sized silhouettes, English challenges typical perceptions of menswear and almost seems to suggest that the new age of design has well and truly arrived.

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Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press|

Images: Amie Caswell| Fashion Week Photographer| @amiecharlot

 

 

 LFWPhoebe English SS13Sunday afternoon and the fashion week crowd gathers at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout location, the Freemasons Hall,  for the Spring/Summer offering from Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Phoebe English.  Six months ago the designer was awarded the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Merit Award for her AW12 collection (as reported by Who’s Jack last season!)  Spring/Summer 2013 sees the designers’ third offering for Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

English has a long standing interest in process and the maker and takes her inspiration from the process of craftsmanship for this collection.  This season, as with her Autumn / Winter 2012 Phoebe English focuses on the textures within the garments.

 LFWPhoebe English SS13 2Fabrics used were thick, organic cottons, but forms were geometric.  The palette was a monochrome of black and ivory- cited as the colour of masking tape.  The only colour on offer was a pale blue- taken from the colour of tailors chalk. As such English ensured that the palette reflected the way in which each garment was made.  This was further defined by the calico used her fabric of choice. Calico, traditionally used in the toiling process, is an unusual fabric to use for the collection, but it works well in this context when trying to convey the designers’ inspiration of the craftsmanship of the clothing.

Sunday afternoon and the fashion week crowd gathers at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout location, the Freemasons Hall,  for the Spring/Summer offering from Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Phoebe English.  Six months ago the designer was awarded the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Merit Award for her AW12 collection (as reported by Who’s Jack last season!)  Spring/Summer 2013 sees the designers’ third offering for Vauxhall Fashion Scout.

English has a long standing interest in process and the maker and takes her inspiration from the process of craftsmanship for this collection.  This season, as with her Autumn / Winter 2012 Phoebe English focuses on the textures within the garments.

Fabrics used were thick, organic cottons, but forms were geometric.  The palette was a monochrome of black and ivory- cited as the colour of masking tape.  The only colour on offer was a pale blue- taken from the colour of tailors chalk. As such English ensured that the palette reflected the way in which each garment was made.  This was further defined by the calico used her fabric of choice. Calico, traditionally used in the toiling process, is an unusual fabric to use for the collection, but it works well in this context when trying to convey the designers’ inspiration of the craftsmanship of the clothing.