Tag: on/off

ON|OFF returned for its 15th annual showcase at London Fashion Week 2017, presenting the seasons’ three most exciting international talents: Jack Irving, Luke Anthony Rooney and CAPLANENTWISLE.

To kick off what would prove to be one of the most diverse catwalks of the week, the ON|OFF showcase took on the invigorating atmosphere of a music concert, thanks live a performance from the equally rising talents of London based indie-pop band, Stereo Honey.

 

First out on the catwalk was the SS18 collection “Resort”, by CAPLANENTWISLE. Adam Entwisle and Emma Caplan joined forces after graduating from Central St Martins in 1999, going on to found not one, but two cult labels, Horace and Buddhist punk as famously worn by The Rolling Stones.

Now, the eponymous design team return, with a collection inspired by the reformed millennial attitude toward freedom and diversity. Oversized jackets, frayed hems and hand-painted denim infused the collection with that raw, unrefined sense of reckless youth. A mood surmised by the classic-cut slogan tee professing, ‘we are all colour here’.

Luke Anthony Rooney’s signature colourful designs followed on seamlessly. Less rough-and-ready around the edges perhaps, Rooney’s SS18 collection continued the relaxed vision of millennial society.

Silk slip dresses and easy-fit tailoring provided a sophisticated sense of elegance, light, airy fabrics creating a sense of movement, while the playful use of colour and simple hair and makeup styling, added to the youthful feel of the collection.

Jack Irving brought something a touch more extravagant to the catwalk. Having famously designed for Lady Gaga, Irving’s blow-up designs can certainly not be classed as ready-to-wear…

We can’t be certain where Iriving gets his inspiration for these avant-garde pieces, but whether he’s an avid deep-sea diver or got abducted by aliens as a child, his SS18 designs are nothing short of fabulous.

From metallic warrior-esque body-suits, to what looked like inflatable anemones, his models both shocked and commanded the catwalk in incredible platform heels.

There’s no doubt that ON|OFF presents has this year succeeded in promoting three soon-to-be dominating design talents.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Taking over the Barge House at the OXO Tower this season, the On|Off space at LFW is always the place to go to discover something new, which is exactly what we did when we went to see the CAPLANENTWISLE AW17 presentation. On walking into the industrial-chic room, you could be forgiven to thinking that you’d wandered into a backstage party – models stood around casually chatting and drinking, wine and plastic cups were laid out across the room and polaroids of the looks littered the walls. But this chill vibe was in fact the best way to get up close and personal with the clothes, and to understand exactly what the collection was about.


CAPLANENTWISLE is the latest collaboration from Adam Entwisle and Emma Caplan, a design duo who have been producing collections since 1999. Its debut collection, The Stranger as a Social Type, was a feast of millennial attitude, full of fraying, oversized silhouettes and printed texture.

Bold yellow checks and big stripes appeared across the clothes, paired with moody black backgrounds. The designs put a modern day punk vibe on classic shapes – trousers were baggy and trailing, braces became tops and shirts were thrown on like skirts. All were finished with raw edges and hanging threads, raising the question of how many times we can reinvent something before it starts to fall apart. Hoods were worn up, hair was worn slicked and Converse finished every look, adding to the relaxed yet defiant atmosphere.

With their first collection CAPLANENTWISLE are walking the fine line between artistic exploration and functionality, challenging the very nature of the fashion industry with a series of clothes that can be thrown on and worn without any fuss. Seeing them being worn in real life, hanging out on a Friday evening drinking wine, highlighted both their wearability and vulnerability – the odd spill of red wine could have been disastrous – which was an integration between the designer and consumer that we are looking forward to seeing more of next season.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photograher

Lights were dimmed, music was thumping and drinks were in full swing as we were shown through Phonica Records on Poland Street and down into the On|Off space below. It was late on a Saturday night, day two of LFW, and it was time for the PA5H SS17 show, Tyred. A screeching wheel spin brought the babble of the room to a halt, announcing the arrival of the first model onto the catwalk.

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Taking inspiration from an old racing jacket found at a vintage fair, the collection was centred around all things motor, nodding to Formula 1 with racing stripes, bold reds and jumpsuit styles. The key was in the details; shorts became works of art with thousands of beads hand-stitched into a checkerboard design, while dresses were held together with seatbelt-style tapes that unclipped in the middle.

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Hair and makeup, too, reflected this stylised theme – hair flirted with the nineties trend with tightly-crimped sections forming tyre tracks amongst red go-faster lines, which were repeated on minimal faces above eyes and across cheeks.

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Contrasting with the sleek, vinyl textures were distressed denim accents, featuring on cuffs and elbows and revealing just the right amount of skin as loose legwarmers, as well as soft, cosy sweatshirts branded with wordplay slogans that fitted the title of the collection.

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We all love a good theme, and PA5H have hit the sweet spot between inspiration and overdoing it. Watching the collection as whole whilst the models did their final walk (to a car-themed soundtrack, of coruse), it works cohesively as an ode to motorsport, but each piece is individually crafted to have its own unique identity. The designs are fun, fashionable and functional, offering options for day or night, with as little or as much car as you require. And, after all, how could we possibly resist a bit of word play?

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Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Zac Mahrouche | Fashion Week Photographer | @zacmahrouche

formal dresses NZ: Wedding Dresses,Bridesmaid Dresses,Ball Prom Dresses,Cocktail Gowns

The Asli Polat presentation was held at the Topbridal as part of On|Off. While bemused shoppers browsed through records, they showed a vague interest as people were ushered downstairs into a whole other world – one that they might not have even known existed.

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This season marks Polat’s fifth showing in London. With a head office based in New York, Polat splits her time between the two cities. If the Ryan LO show reminded me of prom, Polat’s certainly did. Big silver balloons spelled out the designer’s name in bubble letters against the backdrop of a metallic fringed curtain. Ruffles, ruching, and pleating added to shirtdresses, crop tops, and jackets further amplified this vibe. The models walked the runway with strappy silver heels on their feet and glitter on their faces.

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The Polat woman conveys a youthful innocence, but with this collection, sexual undertones gave the clothes an edge. They were crafted using velvet, satin, cotton, and…PVC.

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A raincoat and top and shorts were completely see-through, which caused a second look. The harnesses, which were either blue or floral, made for a pleasantly unexpected detail on crisp white dresses. The floral theme was prevalent throughout the collection, in printed and literal form. Some of the models sported flowers on their arms and legs, which could be seen through sheer panels.

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I am also glad to report that off the shoulder and shoulder-baring tops are here to stay, as well as our beloved chokers. Well, if Asli Polat has anything to do with it. I predict that the large black choker with a bow at the nape of the neck will be on everyone’s lust list.

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After a flowing, iridescent cape closed the show, the models all lined up to pose, not a cheesy prom picture grin or outfit faux pas in sight.

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Words: Laura Rutkowski | Fashion Week Press | @Laura_Rutkowski

Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

On Friday evening, the On|Off space at the Vinyl Factory was illuminated against the darkening sky. On walking in, it was clear that everyone was ready to party; Charlotte Hathaway was mid-way through a set, drinks were flowing and the room was buzzing as LFW goers wandered through the wildly dressed mannequins which were showcasing the #Tomorrow’s Talent designers.

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The On|Off Presents… platform has been sharing its designers to watch for some six years now, presenting us with names that have gone on to become LFW buzzwords in recent years. Named Punk Diversity, this season’s show was a celebration of all things punk, dosing us up with unconventional behaviour and a hell of a lot of attitude.

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With a deafening guitar riff from Glaswegian punk band Baby Strange, we were off; Kevin Geddes’ models stomped into the room from behind the jagged mirror backdrop. Covered in the KG initial stamp, the range consisted of slouchy, sportswear-inspired pieces, with hidden openings and textures that added a sensuous feel to the casual aesthetic. Bright orange lifted the khaki and black base, along with pointy patent white boots. Speaking of the collection, Geddes perfectly embodies the modern punk; he explains that it was inspired by working class struggles and concern over the political climate, but also that he wanted to make some clothes that people liked.

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A change in song signalled the arrival of Robert Wun’s shaped silhouettes. Each outfit worked as a perfectly constructed whole; an monochrome ombre trousers suit preceded a textured neon yellow jacket/skirt/boot combo, followed by a silvery velvet coat and dress. And the shoes were nothing short of a exceptional; every look was accompanied by a matching version of a curved heel boot which has gone straight the top of our want list.

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Finally, it was Jayne Pierson’s turn. In stark contrast to the tailored suits that came before, the first model was naked except for a single layer of black netting and a highly structured, off the shoulder jacket, adorned in graffiti-esque prints. As a former intern for Vivienne Westwood, it was of course no surprise that her designs were the most risqué, showing plenty of skin wrapped in tartan, fishnet and leather. The final person to take to the stage was a mini-model; a young girl dressed from head to foot in a leather tasselled suit, completing the punk attitude perfectly by challenging our traditional ideas of fashion and modelling.

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The show finished with a final call of each outfit before the models broke out of the confines of the runway and enjoyed a drink whilst the designers flew out from backstage, greeting their friends and fans. Dazed Digital began a live streamed photoshoot of the collections, screening them onto the walls of the room. As a whole, this show broke all of the LFW conventions we’ve come to expect, not only through the clothes, but also with the presentation itself. From serving beer instead of prosecco to having the models step through the crowds instead of returning down the catwalk, it was wonderfully unusual and entirely entertaining.

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Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Joshua Atkins | Fashion Week Photographer | @joshuaatkins