Tag: monochrome

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Central St Martin's graduate, Manuel Facchini, is only in his third season at London Fashion Week but you'd never guess, looking at his expertly crafted collection. Adhering to his blend of gothic rock and sportswear influences, Fachhini's AW16 collection was a beautiful juxtaposition between two contrasting aesthetics.

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Held in a modest, intimate show-space at Carlton House Terrace, London, the presentation had an up-close and personal quality. Models with their dramatically outlined eyes, gazed down from their plastic-wrapped pedestals and stood with an air of confidence between shards of mirrored glass. In the background, music from The XX provided a steady beat and a laid back aura.

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Linear-patterned jacquard coats and dresses instantly stood out, some in monochrome and some in deep red and purple. The graphics created an illusion of movement. At a closer look, you can appreciate the subtler pieces in intricately laser-cut leather. The bold graphics were combined with lavish devoré and woollen knits in a soft, sleek silhouette with cocoon coats and rounded shoulders.

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Details including sheer inserts, panelling and metal eyelets entwined the collection together. Asymmetry also played a heavy role throughout, from hems and panelling to necklines zips. Influences came from British sculptor Richard Sweeney and the gothic architecture of Michael Hansmeyer, resulting in a very sculptural aesthetic.

Finished off with touches of metallic in the form of futuristic footwear, Facchini presented an altogether strong, confident and eclectic collection.

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Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Joshua Atkins |Fashion Week Photographer| @joshuaatkins

 

 

The theme of Sankuanz’s SS 2015 collection may have been "square", but the designs were fun and free.

The industrial setting of the show, which was held at Victoria House, matched well with the monochrome start. Loose t shirts and shorts adorned with black cartoon prints and Chinese characters gave no hint of what was to come.

Prints inspired by 1940s Russian prison tattoos injected a rebellious attitude into the monochrome palette.

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Longline jackets, reminiscent of 18th century tuxedos, were contrasted with the models’ flashing grills - an update of the hip hop staple.

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Colour gradually made its way into the collection as the catwalk progressed, in the form of bright shorts, but before it was introduced in a much bigger way, the colour palette reversed from white with black detailing to black with white prints.

Models with incredible manga-eyes makeup took to the catwalk accessorised with giant oversized hand-painted skeleton hands and lobster claws. Here the cartoon influences were most obvious.

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Sankuanz’s SS 2015 collection is definitely one for the cool-conscious, sport-style-loving man. The loose shapes, hoods and bomber jacket details helped give a new dimension to sports luxe.

This was a LCM debut and the first show outside of China for the Sankuanz designer, Shangguan Zhe. He’s definitely given London something to talk about.

Words: Alannah Francis | Fashion Week Press |@AlannahFrancis1
Photos: Rosemary Pitts | Fashion Week Photographer | @rosemarypitts_

David 'monochrome' Koma has won a legion of fans for his trademark style of asymmetric bug-structure combined with a two-tone block colour scheme, and this season certainly didn't disappoint.

For SS14 the Georgian designer took his inspiration from the ancient form of Japanese archery, Kyudo, creating an aesthetic of a woman who is a strong elegant warrior dressing with balance, stillness and control.

With a flash of white the show kicked off showing pretty white body structured thigh skimming dresses, revealing flashes of shoulders or chest.

Sheer was smart paired with Koma's favourite marriage of black and white, triangles and diagonal stripes flattered and sculpted the feminine form, shoulders were highlighted in clear sheer to show a hint of vulnerability.

Dusty pink was executed with strong femininity, lowlighting perfect pleats in with black creating a 3D skirt effect, holding the rest of the body together in monochrome triangles and rectangles, as if the female form was designed to be captured in shapes.

The slightly off part of the collection was the Koma's choice to pair royal with powder blue creating a dress fit for a cheerleader rather than a warrior princess, albeit a very well tailored one.

The collection got progressively darker, more militant and spidery with the introduction of dark blue often framed with leather caged ribs morphing into the eventual black armour of leather shoulder pads mounted on caged sleeves over a fitted black dress revealing the midriff, and panelled skirts cut with flashes of leather.

David Koma's design apple definitely doesn't fall far from the tree, it would have been nice to see him experiment outside of his comfort zone of monochrome, but his magic formula is certainly not broke, so perhaps there is no need to fix it.

Words: Tania Willis | Fashion Week Press
Photography: Sebastian McCluskey | Fashion Week Photograher | @mccluskey1

I arrived at the Old Sorting Office yesterday keen to see what Philip Stevens, the creative Mancunian force behind Unconditional, had to offer. The outside of the venue is completely painted black and looks quite intimidating, yet for the show the inside of the 1960s industrial site was decorated with low-lit candles and glimmering flashbulbs hanging from the roughcast walls. In many ways this contrast nicely sums up Stevens’ show and the Unconditional label; soft yet edgy, elegant yet gritty, mellow yet striking.

After a calm walk down the catwalk from Stevens, the show began and out came models dressed in tailored monochrome outfits with flashes of zigzags. This mix of classic and modern is a key feature of the Unconditional label.

Next came a nautical theme as stripes and jumpers with slogans such as ‘Sailor Boy’ and ‘Hello Sailor’ appeared on the catwalk. Going nautical is always a safe bet for a spring collection as the Chanel-inspired trend returns year after year.

Another spring trend that never fails to disappear is that of floaty pastel colours and these were the next styles to grace the catwalk.

Block colours were a big feature of SS11 and returned in this show as hot pink, bright tangerine and summer yellow worked together in maxi dresses and trouser suits. The looks were toughened up with studded belts, braces, and necklaces which managed to diversify them from the styles we have already seen this year.

Finally, intricately designed maroon brown suits and white tees with maroon brace strap emblems took to the catwalk and it was great to end the show with some unique designs that really encapsulate the label.

Lorraine Kelly, Kirsty Alsop, and Misfits’ Nathan Stewart-Jarret were just some of the celebs squeezing themselves into a very busy Jasper Conran SS12 show. Luckily, I managed to grab a seat before the impressive show took place.  

Starting only 10 minutes late, the catwalk was filled with clean-cut styles on models with sleek, effortless hair held back by thick cotton headbands. Each cut was neat, whether it was a box top or shift dress, creating a monastic feel which was enhanced by the monochrome colour scheme.Clear perspex boxy clutch bags and flat sandals helped to reinforce this modern and sophisticated look.

As the show went on, the styles became almost-art deco, as precision resin was layered in graphic shapes for boxy style dresses.Pops of colour also started to appear on the designs.

This was before striking red and hot pink maxi dresses and skirts breezed down the runway. They were still very controlled pieces, yet the pleats and slits in some of the maxi skirts and dresses helped to create movement, femininity, and fluidity. The weightless silk tulle used also helped to create this impression.

It seems that Jasper Conran has again demonstrated why his shows remain so popular.