MAN, established in 2005 by Fashion East and Topman, identifies and supports ‘the most exciting new menswear names’. This show was no different, bringing together three very different collections, to form an eclectic, and very interesting show.
First up was Astrid Anderson, whose street sportswear collection seemed to have been inspired by streetwear from the late eighties/early nineties. Gold, lavender and black were the main colours in the show, set against the backdrop of a thumping soundtrack, with Chief Keef's ‘I Don’t Like’ and Aaliyah’s ‘Are You That Somebody?’ being mixed together. I had to refrain from cutting some serious shapes while the show was going on.
Astrid Anderson may use regular streetwear items, such as hoodies, tracksuits and oversized coats, however, the beauty is in the design. Anderson uses floral prints in lavender and gold to soften clothing that too often has negative connotations. Dark denim jackets are contrasted with brilliant gold oversized hoodies. It’s streetwear. But not as we know it.
Craig Green was next, and was in complete contrast to the Astrid Anderson show. In his press release it describes his collection as an ‘obsession with the interplay between light and dark…made up of a series of inverse looks’. The start contrasts of light and dark, and the use of the most bizarre face coverings I have ever seen made the collection look…almost terrifying.
Green’s collection was almost entirely black and white, with the briefest hints of navy blue stripes on one jacket. Models were dressed in either all black or all white, jumpers were made out of different materials stitched together, layered with shirts with long tails. Trousers were cut at the calf and worn with long socks. Jumpers and jackets had a handmade feel to them. If I’m honest, it was a collection that was not really appealing, and a show that left me wondering: How can the models see through planks of wood?
Agi & Sam
After the dark shadows of the Craig Green show, the Agi & Sam collection was the complete opposite. The room relaxed as I: Allegro and III: Presto played whilst the show carried out. It was well put together, featuring a dog, and models that were actually old enough to be someone’s granddad.
The collection was extremely well put together. Quintessentially British, whilst being refreshingly modern, Agi & Sam drew inspiration from the Maquess of Bath. Featuring a colour palette of blue, yellow, burgundy, orange, as well as soft grey and off white, the collection made me want to picnic in Richmond, regardless of the temperature. The collection had waistcoats with zips, knee length coats in vibrant blue, deep burgundy or a chequered orange. One piece I particularly liked was a twist on the Pea Coat, the body was black with gold buttons, and the arms were bright yellow.
The collection also featured formal wear. Black dinner jackets with contrasting lapels and grey blazers worn with red pattered trousers which was pretty eye catching. White single breasted slim fit suits worn with big puffa jackets gave the look a modern twist. Autumn/Winter 2013 in Agi & Sam’s mind is a rather smart, well fitted affair. Sloppy people need not apply.
Words: Nathan Agyekum | Follow: @MasterNath