Tag: markus lupfer

Markus Lupfer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Markus Lupfer was in a Memphis mood for Spring/Summer 2019. Not Memphis, Tennessee, but the influential 1980s design group founded by Italian designer Ettore Sottsass that drove the Post Modern aesthetic and has enjoyed a recent reassurance thanks to designers such as Lupfer who appreciate its playfulness. Lupfer’s designs are celebrated for immediately grabbing the eye and heart with their eye candy boldness and pop cheekiness, all of which reminds us how pleasurable fashion can be. He is also a storyteller, and for his Spring/Summer 2019 show Lupfer took the audience into a playful paradise of beachside retro heaven.

Markus Lupfer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

He presented hypnotic dresses, so light and airy they felt part of the dream and featured abstract animal prints, lighting bolts and surf wear graphics. It felt as though one had stepped onto a film set or a photo-shoot, but all the while one knew Lupfer doesn’t design for fiction but brutal reality. When WJ London asked his team the theme they answered “1980s by the beach” but it was so much more than a retro seaside romp. Lupfer subdued his bold graphic designs into sublime sequined dresses that could easily slink their way into our demanding lives.

Markus Lupfer LFW spring/Summer 2019

During the 1980’s the Memphis group challenged the idea that products had to follow conventional shapes, colours and textures. Lupfer also likes to challenge his own imagination and the idea of what his fan base want. Lupfer says his “girl mixes feather light fabrics made for dancing: an easy, airy take on party dressing.”

Markus Lupfer Spring/Summer 2019

He produced dresses that are immediately beautiful but also easily transportable. Yes, Lupfer wants us to dream, but he knows clothes must provide the fantasy to fit into our brutal reality. His soft tulle concoctions, effortless and fluid, are a happy escape for stifling city life.

Words:  Catherine Caines| Fashion Week Press

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Stepping into Carriage Hall from Covent Garden's Floral Street was like being instantly transported back in time to the bright, fun and young era of the 1960s.

Standing in their monochrome outfits from orange to blue to green and candy pink, the Markus Lupfer models looked the epitome of cool against a backdrop of white balloons.

Accessorised in oversized sunglasses with flowery frames and statement embellished earrings, the SS18 collection was all about tactility.

Outfits were adorned in 3D florals and there was a clever mix of fabrics. Laser cut lace, sheer layers and embellishments made for an ornate look.

In shorts, sunnies and floral printed pieces, the collection had a Palm Springs holiday vibe. Despite the summery feel, there were of course some signature Lupfer knits in retro style, colourful patterns.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Zac Mahrouche|Fashion Week Photographer| @zacmahrouche

Markus Lupfer returns for Autumn Winter 2017, with his eccentric prints and statement motifs. A continuation of his Spring Summer ode to the the duality of the modern women, Lupfer draws from the interplay between toughness and femininity. Similarly to his Spring collection, floral prints were heavy throughout the collection, with the main pattern being the dandelion.

Masculine, structured outerwear was juxtaposed against delicate floral and animal prints. Inspiration from menswear was also seen in well tailored jackets and an oversized cream shearling overcoat, with large lapels and two, low buttons which was feminised with white flower appliques. Outfits were given fully sartorial twists with jackets being paired with check pattern trousers, layered over metallic leggings in deep purples and greens. Gilets were also seen in shearling, tied with long to-the-knee belts.

Low shine metallics were seen in silver pleated skirts and leggings, and earthy undertones were seen throughout. Metallics and florals were matched with bold, regal blues and deep burgundy’s, adding an element of timelessness to the collection. Winter overcoats were knee length and had intricately embroidered petals on the lapels. The mixture between tailoring and sportswear adds a flare of toughness and punk spirit that was seen in his Spring Summer collection. Puffer jackets were seen with ruched sleeves and accessories were seen with drawstring bags and perspex sunglasses.


Words: Andre Bogues | Fashion Week Press | @andredevb
Images: Zac Mahrouche | Fashion Week Photographer | @zacmahrouche

Markus Lupfer presented his Spring-Summer 2017 ready-to-wear collection in Euston. The location was a white-walled space, with stainless steel flooring and flowers sprouting from open spaces between the tiles, whilst a sweet, floral scent was sprayed throughout. Entering the presentation gave a clue to the look and feel of the collection as, the contrast of silver flooring and petals encaptured the delicate toughness of Lupfer’s biker-chic gang.

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The Berlin born designer touched on several different aesthetics and details, ranging from sports luxe, the aforementioned biker-chic to festival ready outerwear. Presenting an intricate collection of youthful, flowing clothing with touches of tailoring and a hint of menswear influences. Colourful floral prints on dresses were interrupted by high-shine chain belts and metal detailing, or striped elastic belts with pockets attached. The fit on many of the outfits was loose and featured red, navy and white stripes. The collection also utilised beautiful shades of soft pinks and magnolia, complementing the floral emblems.

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Florals were replaced with more playful bunny rabbit and cat patterns on technical fabrics in light blues and off-yellows. Fabrics were cut into asymmetrical shapes with widening pleats and clean finishes. Overcoats and large-collared shirts gave a sartorial feel to some of the pieces, toying with the contrast between large masculine shapes and delicate dainty fabrics and detailing, such as embroidered pyjama silk.

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The playful and glittering bunny motif ran through see through playsuits, overlapping to create a texture on top of sheer materials. Looks were completed by oversized sunglasses with coloured, mirrored lenses that complemented the colourway of the outfits and, chokers with large safety pins attached.

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Words: Andre Bogues | Fashion Week Press | @andredevb

Images: Phoebe Fox | Fashion Week Photographer | @_phox_

In the shadow of the Horse Guards Parade and the Ministry of Defence, Markus Lupfer invited us into the barren wasteland that was the set for his SS16 collection.

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Sipping on a Peyote chilli margarita, served with a little bottle of Ambar Tequila to pour at will, we wandered through the wild flowers sprouting up between wooden floorboards, coming across models set against the rocky, arid landscape as we moved around the room.

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The collection is playful yet moody, setting fun motifs of cacti and Mexican luchadors against sheer, dark organza, reflecting the contrasting nature of the Mexican deserts which inspired the designer. Whites, taupes and light pinks filter through, reminiscent of early morning sky, bringing lightness to the collection.

Almost as if growing out of control, flowers creep from the floor onto the garments themselves, enrobing shoes, adorning pockets and even cascading from the models’ ear lobes. A clear favourite in the room is a sheer bomber, embroidered with florals, layered over a dress of yet more delicate flowers.

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As we’ve come to know and love him for, Lupfer’s chosen motifs recur throughout the collection across a range of garments, from laid-back separates to dainty evening dresses. He once again astounds us with his intricate craftsmanship, using masterful techniques to apply them in patch, printed and embroidered forms.

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Regarding the collection as a whole from the balcony overlooking the Thames, it is a gorgeous array of fun, yet sophisticated, femininity. Through his use of contrasts, Lupfer has turned Spring florals into something fresh and exciting, appealing to both our senses of fashion and humour.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Kaye Ford | Fashion Week Photography | @fordtography