King Koma is the nickname given to David Koma, London Fashion Week’s most hotly anticipated designer.
Who’s Jack writer Tania Willis was fortunate enough to grab an exclusive peak into his upcoming LFW show through the eyes of his First Assistant, Aisha Kascioglu...
If you have not yet heard of the 25-year-old Georgian born designer, then you will most definitely recognise his genius eye for structure and embellishment, which has not only paid dues to his celebrity following, (Cheryl Cole, Beyonce and Kylie Minougue are huge fans) as much as leaders of the fashion world.
Not many designers are fortunate enough to finish their Central St Martins MA and within a year explode into stratospheric demand; (for starters his graduate collection won him the Harrods Design Award) swiftly evolving from student designer to superstar designer, being pressed by the likes of Rhianna for pieces fresh of the runway to having just recently released a capsule collection with high street mogul Topshop, there is no doubt David doesn’t deserve the nickname King Koma.
Like all precise trend forecasters AUCB Costume Design alumni Aisha Kascioglu was smart enough to notice Koma’s design’s when he was still deep under Alexandra Shulman’s radar; “I was doing my usual stalk of Central St Martins students and came across David Koma. His work appealed to me with the strong silhouettes and materials he uses, he really creates a very powerful and sexy image. I emailed asking if I could show him my work, and if he would need any interns soon. My timing was lucky, as I messaged him when he was just starting out and was his first intern!" Very lucky indeed, Aisha continues, “David is great to work for, as his first assistant I was even trusted to try on one of his dresses! Alicia Keys wore the exact same design to perform on Britains Got Talent”.
So what is it really like working for one of the UK’s highly anticipated designing talents, a bit like embodying a multi-tasking, tea making, pin cushion? Or as titillating as being invited to raid Alexa Chung’s wardrobe and be her plus one to a super exclusive bash in one of Karl Lagerfeld’s hand chiseled icebergs?
Aisha begs to differ: “It really is such a privilege to work for such a huge up and coming designer like David, every day varies which makes the job very exciting. Sometimes I will be working on finishing his collection for runway, or writing the press release for his upcoming collection before fashion week.” However working for fashion’s new ‘it boy’ or granting a request from her wacky highness Lady GaGa for your painstakingly hand stitched affections does not guarantee that you will be cosied up on your sofa in time for Hollyoaks. “It’s never a 9-5 however; sometimes I’m working through the night! But seeing the audience’s reaction to the designs I’ve helped work on when they come out on the runway makes it all worth it,' says Aisha.
Can she reveal any exclusive secrets about his upcoming collection at LFW, a collection which is working up quite an anticipatory sweat amongst fashion editors? After some reluctant mumblings Aisha discloses, “everyone is working very hard for this season, I am not allowed to give too much away, you will have to wait till the 21st of February. All the best designers must keep their secrets!” But does indeed confirm the A/W 11 collection will be influenced by forests touched by a Tim Burton level of darkness. A complete antithesis to his last S/S 11 collection inspired by the metamorphosis in Swan Lake, imitating a very structured tough ballet silhouette, which used monochromic patterns and inserts of python leather dipped in striking metallic embellishment.
Behind every incredible designer there is without question an equally commendable assistant, after all who was appointed creative director after Alexander McQueen’s untimely death? None other than his first assistant Sarah Burton, who closed her debut collection with a deafening round of applause. Miss Kascioglu does eventuallt see herself following in such famous first assistant’s footsteps, but not just yet. “I do have ambitions to move into designing at some stage, but at the moment I'm happy to help David with each season. I’m learning so much on the job, this will be my third season with David Koma so we will have to keep our fingers crossed and see where it takes me!”
Follow Aisha on twitter at www.twitter.com/AishaKascioglu