Tag: london fashion week

First comes love, then comes marriage -  then comes baby in a baby carriage. Old nursery school rhyme, or a foreshadowing of the natural progression of Ryan Lo’s most recent collections? As we return to London Fashion Week for another season, what better way to open proceedings than with this WJ London favourite and his fantastical interpretation of romance, tradition and the even the British monarchy - whether in a past century, or the next.

After delivering a memorable proposal for SS19 (whereby Lo invited us to observe a romantic tale that culminated in a princely “I do”), this season’s autumn/winter offering saw the story pick up at its next chapter: a right royal birth. There definitely felt like there was an element of cosmic timing at play, what with the media’s current thirst for information on the next addition to the British monarchy, but Ryan’s opening pram push was the stuff of a dystopian fairy tale. No blue for a boy, pink for a girl here: just lashings of mourning black, British pomp and traditional Victoriana details.

Across his catalogue of work, the explosive frenzy and candy pink colour of Kawaii culture often juxtaposes the dark and glamorous, whilst his fondness for childhood motifs jars with his creative vision for the future. That’s what’s so exciting about Lo: his duality. Hailing from Hong Kong but London-based by desire, Lo playfully dances between curious contrasts and opposites to create his own twisted fantasy world. It was a far cry from Lo’s usual hyper-feminine frills and frothiness, but this dichotomy was still at the epicentre of the entire collection, with these different locations playing a key part.

Despite a stiff-upper-lip entrance of the new royal parents and a more gothic tone to the collection, there was plenty of Lo’s cute and whimsy to satisfy his diehard fans. Pink tulle featured, accessorised with Royal Guard bearskin hats, reimagined in bubblegum pink, feathers and fluff by none other than Phillip Jones. Corset lace front dresses in virginal white were befitting of a princess, whilst quilted coat dresses, brocade coordinates and ruffled collars were undoubtedly Mother of Bride worthy in some alternative world.

Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

London Fashion Week is where we get all our style tips - the place to wear the most fabulous outfits of the season while taking note of what to be wearing for the next!

So, now that the SS19 shows have come to an end we can take our eyes away from the catwalk and focus on what we spotted off the runway. Our favourites (to name a few) feature bursts of orange, wild prints, checks on checks, full on fringing and not forgetting 70s inspired florals. Whether you were flying solo or a power couple, serious coordination was key and caught our attention wherever we turned! You heard and saw it here first, these are the trends we'll be watching this autumn.

@lauren_hallworth
@laurenbannon1
@leopardprintelephant
@naomikisted
@triinuo
@sinyusiu
@lauren_hallworth
@adamsiddle1

@miss0liwia

@katiieewood

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto

 

 

Edeline Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Always elegantly disciplined, designer Edeline Lee injected some vibrant, dance fuelled joy into her LFW Spring/Summer 2019 show. Deploying any form of dance presentation at fashion week can be a risky affair, however, for Lee all the energy and movement simply showcased her appetite for freedom. Lee believes that "As a designer, I view myself to be in service to women, helping them to be well within their selves and giving them tools to construct and express their identities to the outside world."  She also backed up this committed with impeccable cutting and dynamic prints.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

Amongst all the music, fun and action it was clear that her SS19 collection marked another bold step forward for this fast rising designer. Charged with ruffles and flounces, Lee used these to create movement with a positive spin. "Fashion is a playground for experimentation with performance and identity," she shared. This meant enlisting uplifting, powerful colours such as scarlet and ochre to ultimately bypass too girlie a summer look.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

With dance legends including Trajal Harrell and Pina Bausch as inspiration she kept exploring the relationship between functionality and femininity.  Featuring 28 looks, Lee's energy refused to plateau and hit an even more playful note by introducing a bold zig-zag pattern. Her off kilter colour choices of  brown and green played off against scarlet, blue, ivory and ochre proved again that this collection was designed for women with character and quirk.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

The use of ruffles and ruching became a precision point operation that involved either tiny, pin-hemmed versions or scrunched ruffles and eventually voluptuous, doubled and rolled flounces.Even Lee's shoes were given the ruffle effect.

Lee appreciates that her muse, 'the future lady' as she like to call her "is searching for and assuming diverse identities for different moments in their lives." Lee arms this journey with beautifully cut dresses and skirts that have enough fashion intelligence to also deliver movement and ease.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

During LFW there has been much discussion about empowering fashion. But for Lee, like her brand, it’s about arming oneself for the female journey and using fashion as one's passport.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Imagery: Benjamin Tietge 

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

Malene Oddershede Bach presented a compelling garden of earthly delights for her Spring/Summer 2019 show. Bach is a master of juxtaposing tensions, and for SS19 she explored the dynamic between feminine clothing defined with tomboyish details.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

The push and pull between masculine and feminine energies is a powerful theme. And it gave her LFW show a certain intrigue.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

Staged against a background of botanicals at the historical Ennismore Sessions House, there was an eerie beauty that fell upon the show. One couldn’t help wonder what lies beneath Bach's delicate floaty floral prints and stunning red carpet creations? For the Danish-born designer, there is always something modern and complex even to her most romantic dresses.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

She also charged ahead to include practical classic British stables such as shirt-dresses, PVC rain hats and rain macs. In Bach’s world a woman can never be too prepared. Especially when she doesn’t want to be compromised from wearing Bach’s luxurious jacquards and meticulous floral embroideries.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

The London based designer was ever diligent in innovating her brand - whether through new fabrications or playing with such urban staples as bomber jackets.

But it was the haunting focus on intricately embroidered Icelandic poppies that gave Bach's show its real  meaning. Poppies appear fragile, and yet sustain against all environmental odds. Bach understands beauty can survive even the harshest conditions and she insured every one of her SS19 creations showed that strength.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press
Images: Chris Yates

 

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Roberta Einer’s trademark hypnotic beads, sequins and prints where out in force for her SS19 collection. It’s her radiant magpie aesthetic that first caught the fashion industry’s affections, but now this fast-rising designer has boldly changed frequency again.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

It takes a certain poetic courage to pour so much compassion into a collection, but Einer did just that. As her LFW collection linked along the runway, it was clear Einer wanted to bring to the surface a new womanly integrity whilst never loosing site of her playful embellishments and hand-embroidery decoration.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

What comes first for Einer, being a global citizen or a fashion designer? Her Estonian upbringing and love of 70's Moroccan culture certainly are an influences, as too living in London. It’s the 25-years-old's melting pot of life experiences that insured her SS19 collection could only be a maximist success.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Her personal influences found their way onto the runway in the form of bags like precious Moroccan rug, easy hoodies, lightweight cocktail dresses and pyjama style layers.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

But it was the quieter moments when 70's inspired knitwear appeared, their colours as though a fading Moroccan summer set, that were as rewarding as her gorgeous sequin hybrids.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Created in collaboration with knitwear designers Alice Lee and Kate Brittain, they were the perfect calming moment in the show. As too, the easiness of wrap ground skirts and the breezy silhouettes brought a gentle balance to the sequins and beads.

Roberta Einer LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Much has been written about Einer’s previous internship experience at Alexander McQueen, Balmain and Mary Katrantzou. But its her own daring, experimental designs that continue to climb to new personal heights, and we all want to go on the journey with her.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Photos: Martina Bruno