London Fashion Week is where we get all our style tips - the place to wear the most fabulous outfits of the season while taking note of what to be wearing for the next!
So, now that the SS19 shows have come to an end we can take our eyes away from the catwalk and focus on what we spotted off the runway. Our favourites (to name a few) feature bursts of orange, wild prints, checks on checks, full on fringing and not forgetting 70s inspired florals. Whether you were flying solo or a power couple, serious coordination was key and caught our attention wherever we turned! You heard and saw it here first, these are the trends we'll be watching this autumn.
Always elegantly disciplined, designer Edeline Lee injected some vibrant, dance fuelled joy into her LFW Spring/Summer 2019 show. Deploying any form of dance presentation at fashion week can be a risky affair, however, for Lee all the energy and movement simply showcased her appetite for freedom. Lee believes that "As a designer, I view myself to be in service to women, helping them to be well within their selves and giving them tools to construct and express their identities to the outside world." She also backed up this committed with impeccable cutting and dynamic prints.
Amongst all the music, fun and action it was clear that her SS19 collection marked another bold step forward for this fast rising designer. Charged with ruffles and flounces, Lee used these to create movement with a positive spin. "Fashion is a playground for experimentation with performance and identity," she shared. This meant enlisting uplifting, powerful colours such as scarlet and ochre to ultimately bypass too girlie a summer look.
With dance legends including Trajal Harrell and Pina Bausch as inspiration she kept exploring the relationship between functionality and femininity. Featuring 28 looks, Lee's energy refused to plateau and hit an even more playful note by introducing a bold zig-zag pattern. Her off kilter colour choices of brown and green played off against scarlet, blue, ivory and ochre proved again that this collection was designed for women with character and quirk.
The use of ruffles and ruching became a precision point operation that involved either tiny, pin-hemmed versions or scrunched ruffles and eventually voluptuous, doubled and rolled flounces.Even Lee's shoes were given the ruffle effect.
Lee appreciates that her muse, 'the future lady' as she like to call her "is searching for and assuming diverse identities for different moments in their lives." Lee arms this journey with beautifully cut dresses and skirts that have enough fashion intelligence to also deliver movement and ease.
During LFW there has been much discussion about empowering fashion. But for Lee, like her brand, it’s about arming oneself for the female journey and using fashion as one's passport.
Malene Oddershede Bach presented a compelling garden of earthly delights for her Spring/Summer 2019 show. Bach is a master of juxtaposing tensions, and for SS19 she explored the dynamic between feminine clothing defined with tomboyish details.
The push and pull between masculine and feminine energies is a powerful theme. And it gave her LFW show a certain intrigue.
Staged against a background of botanicals at the historical Ennismore Sessions House, there was an eerie beauty that fell upon the show. One couldn’t help wonder what lies beneath Bach's delicate floaty floral prints and stunning red carpet creations? For the Danish-born designer, there is always something modern and complex even to her most romantic dresses.
She also charged ahead to include practical classic British stables such as shirt-dresses, PVC rain hats and rain macs. In Bach’s world a woman can never be too prepared. Especially when she doesn’t want to be compromised from wearing Bach’s luxurious jacquards and meticulous floral embroideries.
The London based designer was ever diligent in innovating her brand - whether through new fabrications or playing with such urban staples as bomber jackets.
But it was the haunting focus on intricately embroidered Icelandic poppies that gave Bach's show its real meaning. Poppies appear fragile, and yet sustain against all environmental odds. Bach understands beauty can survive even the harshest conditions and she insured every one of her SS19 creations showed that strength.
Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press
Images: Chris Yates
Roberta Einer’s trademark hypnotic beads, sequins and prints where out in force for her SS19 collection. It’s her radiant magpie aesthetic that first caught the fashion industry’s affections, but now this fast-rising designer has boldly changed frequency again.
It takes a certain poetic courage to pour so much compassion into a collection, but Einer did just that. As her LFW collection linked along the runway, it was clear Einer wanted to bring to the surface a new womanly integrity whilst never loosing site of her playful embellishments and hand-embroidery decoration.
What comes first for Einer, being a global citizen or a fashion designer? Her Estonian upbringing and love of 70's Moroccan culture certainly are an influences, as too living in London. It’s the 25-years-old's melting pot of life experiences that insured her SS19 collection could only be a maximist success.
Her personal influences found their way onto the runway in the form of bags like precious Moroccan rug, easy hoodies, lightweight cocktail dresses and pyjama style layers.
But it was the quieter moments when 70's inspired knitwear appeared, their colours as though a fading Moroccan summer set, that were as rewarding as her gorgeous sequin hybrids.
Created in collaboration with knitwear designers Alice Lee and Kate Brittain, they were the perfect calming moment in the show. As too, the easiness of wrap ground skirts and the breezy silhouettes brought a gentle balance to the sequins and beads.
Much has been written about Einer’s previous internship experience at Alexander McQueen, Balmain and Mary Katrantzou. But its her own daring, experimental designs that continue to climb to new personal heights, and we all want to go on the journey with her.
Film director Sofia Coppola is an interesting muse to cite as inspiration for Steventai Spring/Summer 2019 collection. Despite the current aggressive visual cultural, Steven Tai stuck to his guns, presenting an intimate, and yet softly glamorous 1970’s feeling in keeping with Coppola’s calm aesthetic.
Tai weaved his reference for Coppola’s sun-drenched 1999 debut feature, The Virgin Suicides, shot by cinematographer Edward Lachmann, into a summery, nostalgic collection. He gently adapted Coppola’s filmic signature of sun-kissed textures, golden highlights and palpable sensuality into his collection of dresses, flares and blouses. The choice of fabrics made his show even more dreamy with slinky metallics, power mesh, translucent glitter stripes and organza printed with botanical doodles.
Staged at The Shop At Bluebird in Covent Gardens, models stood under a canopy of hanging flowers, their fragileness emphasising Tai’s nostalgic mood. Exploring 1970’s glamour has been an interesting trend throughout LFW SS19 with emerging brands such as Art School and Jiri Kalfar all subversively distorting it.
For Steventai this meant turning flares, leisure suits and wallflower formal length dresses into beautiful contemporary pieces relevant to the now. In fact, everything about Tai’s gentle and richly laden show, spoke softly but with a clear vision. Like Coppola’s complex film oeuvre, he creates for the journey we go through as women.
The show’s nostalgic and melancholy palette of greens, burnt golds, navy and rose contrasted with form-fitted masculine shapes. Overall it easy-going sophistication meets quiet knowing. Perfect for a Coppola close-up.