For Autumn / Winter 17, the design duo behind Barrus, Neslisah Yilmaz and Nur Caglayan, continue to unite their heritage with global forms of fashion in their collection which once again pays tribute to their Turkish background. This time, they take influence from the seventh wonder of the ancient world, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, creating a look that pairs simple clean tailoring with eye-catching embellishment.
The show opened with the confident stride of Turkey's international top model, Tulin Sahin, in bejewelled flowing gown in a rich gemstone blue. This set the tone for the show - an opulent and elegant affair of intense hues and daring cuts. Masculine tailored catsuits and bodysuits are given a feminine touch with beading and sleek satin collaring.
A sprinkle of sparkle on the bodice and a flash of feather at the cuff conjures images of a pensile paradise, while full skirts and fluid sleeves give a sense of movement and flow. A sequinned jumpsuit is swathed in sheer rich purple, giving the effect of a shimmering oasis beneath.
Plunging necklines teamed with full length skirts add glamour and gloss while decorative trims draw you into the details, like delicate flowers in a lively landscape. Opulent and intricate, this collection has complex depths as it asks your eye to return to examine the details again and again.
Colour blocking played a big part in breaking up the show into clear sections. Autumnal plums and intense navy gave way to a subtle sage and delicate ivory as the show progressed to climax in a range of snow white gowns, showcasing a Babylonian inspired sense of structure and style. The final billowing white dress worn by Sahin as she closed the show would certainly honour Queen Amytis as she admired her infamous gardens.
Words: Niki Rooney | London Fashion Week Press | United Agents
Images: Mel Williams | London Fashion Week Photographer | @mvwphotographer
Portuguese designer, David Ferreira's show was like delving right into his curious and colourful imagination. For his AW17 collection, 'Freakball,' the designer takes inspiration from freak shows and the circus to put on a fashion spectacle at Freemasons' Hall.
These quirky creatures walk tall, slowly floating down the runway in an explosion of fur and ruffles. As they glide, they twirl and twist their arms in the air, demanding the attention of the audience who can't take their eyes off these magical beings.
It is obvious that Ferreira does not design for the average woman. His muse is an unconventional type with a strong personal style and a taste for stand-out pieces. His garments are known for blurring the lines between fashion and art, and this Fashion Week is no different.
Design details focus on freeing the woman from her natural shape, creating new and quirky silhouettes. These women clearly want to stand out - the voluminous excess of ruffles says so.
This sugary dream world is injected with candy pink, baby blue and soft lilac against accents of rich purple, inky blue and fuchsia. The models' faces are also full of colour, creating dramatic eyes, full pouts and rainbow striped hair.
'Freakball' is a celebration of individuality and not fitting into society's stereotype of "normal." A wonderfully whimsical collection with a strong high-fashion editorial appeal.
Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @Sunna_Naseer
Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts_
A busy vintage office scene unfolds where impeccably dressed women sit at desks liaising on the phone, sorting cash or jotting down notes. They're in a world of their own as the audience gathers around, transfixed.
This is the work of Miló Maria, a brand built upon the values of sophistication and practicality.
For her AW17 LFW presentation, Maria takes a look at contradictions. From colour and texture right through to design, this Victorian inspired collection took a creative journey and travelled right across to the opposite side, ending up with influences from fetish wear.
Modest Victorian details such as high-necked ruffled collars and long cuffs are juxtaposed with patent leather, straps and ties, adding a sultry, femme fatale edge to the prim and proper look.
Clashing textures add levels of interest from luxurious long-pile velvet and suede, to smooth cotton shirts and delicate knit - a first for the brand.
A sophisticated colour palette elevates fetish elements to sit comfortably next to demure details. Deep burgundy, forest green and sugary pink are teamed with black, grey and cream.
This interesting play between two opposing worlds makes for a confident collection for the modern woman.
Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot
Walking into Judy Wu's LFW presentation at the RSA, I am instantly bedazzled by the bright stripes of colour running across lengths of fabric. The collection, aptly named 'Prism,' explores the idea of uncertainty as a response to recent world events.
Fearing that life no longer evolves in a linear narrative, Judy Wu expresses this notion through the way in which light refracts and splits into many different directions when travelling through a prism.
Coloured stripes and panels are printed across garments and fabric falls from the neckline in a zig-zag ruffle pattern. Direction is unpredictable, colours are vivid, and patterns are disrupted through folds and pleats in the fabric.
Nothing about the design is certain. The collection sits unsettled, the opposite of calm in every way. It's alive and constantly moving, keeping the eye guessing on where it's headed next.
Despite this sense of chaos, the collection does have a softer side in its use of fabrics. The craftsmanship is not as unexpected as the design. Smooth wool, cotton velvets, silk georgette and translucent organza help lighten the mood, taking the edge off of this harsh reality. The result? A play between nervous uncertainty and the comfort in what we know.
Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography