Tag: london

Designer Jamie Wei Huang’s SS18 collection, “Dew”, was inspired by the fragmented recounting and retelling of personal experience. It was a concept drawn from Huang’s reflection on her own traditional Taiwanese culture, and captured by the beautiful, hesitantly accumulative piano piece which instigated her show.

 

The story began in stripes. Blues, pinks and greens growing in depth and vivacity with each piece, a gradual solidifying of colours to correlate that of re-emerging memory; the punctuation of bold reds, yellows and cobalt in the shoes and accessories, providing those colourful splashes of certainty which continue to emerge throughout the collection.

Ball Gown Wedding Dress NZ

Huang’s Spring/Summer designs favour easy-fit clothing; wedding dresses and jumpsuits tying into her signature style of elongated silhouettes with a focus on creating contemporary fashion for the modern woman.

Wedding Dresses

The concept of construction was apparent in the rough-cut hems, sewn on pockets and undisguised use of zips, drawstrings and metallic rings which both decorated the pieces and acted as functional elements of the designs.

Creative cut-outs were another standout feature, with gaping knees and bare-backed jackets building on the impression of fragmented recollection, while asymmetric designs alluded to the inevitable incompleteness of memory.

Denim-look fabrics, and the brave contrasting of colour-block socks with easy slip-on sandals concluded the collection with a sense of layered individuality, promoting self-expression through contemporary fashion.

Originally from Taiwan, Huang graduated from Central Saint Martins College in London in 2012, launching her designer label Jamie Wei Huang to great critical acclaim in 2013; winning both the “Designer For Tomorrow” award, and the “Elle talent Award” for her AQ14 collection. Huang’s designs are now sold internationally in luxury retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Dover Street Market, David Jones Sydney and mimma ninni.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Next generation utility-wear with an athletic vibe. Dumpty’s SS18 collection made functional, fashionable at LFW2017.

The Dumpty SS18 models stepped out with attitude on Monday morning, showcasing this to a pulsating electronic beat.

This unisex collection, used synthetic fabrics to create durable pieces which appear both functional and highly wearable, with playful cut-outs and asymmetric styling, giving the collection a 90’s kid edge.

White, black and orange provided a solid base to the outfits, while greens and greys occasionally dressed down the utility tone. Pink, a seasonal spring favourite, made a cheeky appearance, contrasted with a black, leather-look jacket to give the look a tougher aesthetic.

The incorporation of high sport socks and mint-green trainers gave the whole collection an athletic vibe, complemented by the slicked back hair and grungy bare-face styling. The casual added branding of “dumpty” stamped across the forehead of each model, an added quirk which spoke to the bold and mischievous personality of the brand.

Zips, Velcro and oversized pockets statemented the pieces, while accessories were alternatively worn with bun-bags fasted across the chest, their straps made from what looked like car seat-belts, an innovative supplement to the practical feel of the collection.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

There was a romantic mood in the air for Isa Arfen's SS18 presentation at Somerset House. Flowing fabrics skimmed the floor in striped and illustrated floral prints. Draped wrap dresses and ruffled trims created a feminine look. But it wasn't all soft and delicate.

Styled with a bit of edge, the models had dark, dramatic eyes and contemporary, fashion-forward hair. Gelled over and swept to one side, shaved or pixie cut.

There was a clear influence from the Far East with wedge sandals worn with white socks and traditionally cut garments in rounded shoulders, wrapped waists and maxi-length skirts. These classic design details were blended with contemporary style through cami dresses over t-shirts and trench coats in iridescent fabrics.

A neutral palette was accented with bursts of red, pink and dark green, creating a highly fashionable but wearable collection. Exactly what the brand aims to achieve – real design for real women.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Catherine Davison | Fashion Week Photographer | @caedavison

 

Bold and brazen, the steadfast duo of Teatum Jones brought their usual essence of brash elegance to the catwalk with their SS18 collection.

Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones have risen fast and climbed high up the official fashion week guest list. Having been named the UKDT Best Womenswear Designers of 2015 and last year following up with the British Isles 2016 International Woolmark Prize for their textural statements, the couples’ luxurious womenswear is now stocked by some of the world’s most luxurious stores: Net-a-porter, Harvey Nichols and Liberty, to name a few.

The SS18 collection took charge with a clash of mustard and indigo. Wide sleeves and asymmetric hem-lines appearing yet again as the no-1 rule of next years’ SS-fashion. As always, texture takes an important role of the Teatum Jones designs, with intricate pleated details, contrasting with the sleek v-cut necklines and billowing sleeves. The ability to achieve so many different aesthetics with the same material, an iconic quality of Teatum Jones designs.

Understated, but in no way ineffective, Teatum Jones used cut-outs to a minimalist effect, giving this all-black outfit a futuristic edge, while again, the mismatch of texture in the pleating, infuse the look with a superfluity which could only come of such exquisite attention to detail.

The cut-out theme developed into the collections’ more casual designs, longline shirt dresses slipping serenely off one shoulder; the early shades of confidence calming to a more functional blue, with camel loafers adding to that day-to-night composure.

This day-to-night feel became only more pronounced with the introduction of salmon and cerulean. Relaxed-fit silk shirts, followed up by wide tailored coats and fur-cuffed slippers.

Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are not only widely admired for their elegant collections, but also for their design ethics; having cast two disabled models, Kelly Knox and Jack Eyeres in their AW17 show as a statement against lack of diversity in the fashion industry.

Their SS18 showcase extended the sentiment, inviting Paralympian equestrian rider, Natasha Baker, to walk the runway.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: CMPR Imagery

The ocean is unfathomable to most of us. So much of it is unknown - this is where the inspiration for Alexis Carballosa's new collection, entitled 'Unbound' came from. With his signature use of gossamer fabrics to cover the head, each piece tempts us to imagine what might be found if we were free to explore the depths of the sea without limits. What would we find there in those exotic deep expanses?

If Carballosa's show is anything to go by, it's possible we might uncover anything.  Long ruffled skirts and flowing pleated cloaks offer hints of seahorses and mermaids.  Black asymmetrical frills are reminiscent of fins or flippers, while a tulip shaped skirt over trousers evokes images of seashells.  A pleated skirt is paired with an ivory sheer blouse and a silver waistband - like a glimmering fish catching the sunlight beneath the swirling surface.

The colour palette is mainly a spectrum of blues and greens - from a dazzling aquamarine and shimmering cerulean to a vibrant peacock and sparkling emerald.  But this is interspersed with a squid ink black and splashes of yellow to remind us that beneath the cool blue-green water, lurks a unique and unusual kind of beauty.

Each piece is carefully structured to give the impression of water flowing or tidal waves - as the models glided down the runway as smoothly as they would cut through water.  Whether your preferred ocean inspiration is Ariel the little mermaid or Ursula the sea witch, this underwater influenced collection is certain to capture your imagination.

Words: Niki Rooney | Fashion Week Press | United Agents

Photos: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photographer | @mvwphotographer