Tag: LFWM

Zio Song, a South Korean designer, presented his SONGZIO SS18 collection at London Fashion Week Men’s (180 The Strand). It was the first show of the day, kicking off at 9am, but it was one worth getting out of bed for. With a pyjama feel, appropriate for a morning show, this collection featured stripes that made you want to crawl back into your loungewear and your bed.

The collection was inspired by this single phrase, “Man, in his night, searches for his own light”. Male emotion is explored throughout the collection. The idea of accepting men’s emotions and feelings, something our society is talking about more and more, influenced every piece.




The colour palette consisted of blue, orange, red and grey. Bold and colourful striped jackets were mixed with muted white shirts. The stripes peaking through on linings of coats, and pinstripes creeping in too, on a series of tailored designs. Creating a clear theme throughout.

This SS18 collection incorporated canvas paintings from Song. Hand-painted these are added to the styles, showing a range of men painted on t-shirts and shirts alike.

A range as unique as ever, it breaks the mould in more ways than one.

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press |@andreaelizam

 

 

John Lawrence Sullivan SS18 show took place at 180 The Strand  for LFWM and is a striking collection that takes us back in time , exploring a dynamic post- punk and masculine aesthetic. His designs revolve around sharp colouring and textured jackets familiar to a punk subculture vibe, he alternates it with a formal wear high fashion twist.

The show opened up with heavy techno beats as the models stomped down the runway with their hands in their pockets, showcasing JLS striking power-suits. In their stride and androgynous ways they rocked slicked back or mullet hairstyles to conform to the rebellious nature of the designs.

 

From wide shouldered jackets to baggy trousers, studded belts and platform boots, there is no doubt in noticing an 80s new-wave Bowie influence. Oversized jackets and tailored wide-legged trousers were also a key feature in the collection.

 

 

In an age of political uncertainty and youth breaking boundaries, this collection was a perfect example of not only how high fashion can take on a political approach but the way in which styles are continuously recycled throughout time. Through inspiration, texture and colour  JLS creative vision for spring/summer menswear 2018 proved to be endearing and challenging whilst relevant to its time.

To see more from John Lawrence Sullivan, visit his official website.

 

Words: Alicia McGuire: Fashion Week Press |
Images: Alicia McGuire | Fashion Week Photographer | @alykmx

For their third collection, DANSHAN designers and Central Saint Martins’ graduates, Dan and Shan (see what they did there?) dug deep into the origins of where our ideas towards gender are initially constructed. Set within a classroom in Kings College London, the young designers used both their newest Spring/Summer '18 pieces and the space that enveloped them  to reflect the belief that ideologies of masculinity and gender are created at school. 

To truly immerse us within that textbook educational atmosphere, models stood nonchalantly amongst televisions, white boards, chairs and desks – inviting spectators too to pull up a seat and get back to work. Projected onto the whiteboard came the message “Learning with Danshan” as the design duo sought to educate us in both mind and body, actively inviting us to explore the fluidity of gender the collection creates, whilst unraveling the dominance the education system has over the growth of expression.

By adapting the conventional school uniform of a blazer, bottoms and school shoes -  courtesy of their sponsor, Kickers,  known to the majority of the British public as the go-to ‘back to school’ shoe) - DANSHAN were able to convey a sense of unity through individuality.  The unexpected bubble wrap trouser paired with a navy blue blazer spoke of breaking that ingrained mold of the expected - as well as reminiscing of every child's obsession when it came to popping the bloody stuff.  Elsewhere, high-shine metallic jackets pair with white and light blue shirt, merging the professionalism of the uniformed cotton with a more casual approach for a contemporary juxtaposition. 

Colour remained warm throughout, with neutrals, varsity blues and burgundy tones occasionally interrupted with flashes of break-away colour. Paired with the soft expressions of the models, flashing the occasional  school boy grin, constructs a welcoming yet intriguing feel.

The projected message, “Danshan know that vulnerability is strength”, outlines the motivation behind the collection and the narrative it portrays. The location and ambient sounds left us with a lasting question on whether the education system is progressive or regressive for personal development. School may be a distant memory for most of us, but there's still a lot more left to learn. 

Words: Habi Diallo | Fashion Week Press |
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @Tegan.photography

If you were to think of a British brand that truly evoked adventure, Belstaff would surely come to mind. Now they face a new direction in their journey with the appointment of creative director Delphine Ninous. And while embracing the demands of contemporary culture, still at the very heart of the brand lies the pioneering spirit that inspired Eli Belovitch and co. nearly a century ago.

Belstaff presented their 'Paris to Dakar' collection on day 4 of LFWM- influenced by the thrilling Dakar rally in the 1970s. In the room, a motorbike- a lasting symbol of Belstaff's timelessly cool attitude. The biker chic collection itself united men's and womenswear once again to ring in this new era of fashion and to reflect romantic illusions of life on the road.

The 70s vibes were complimented by the earthy colour palette- browns, burnt oranges and deep reds. While Leisure wear and leather jackets really gave the wearer entry to the 'cool kids club'. Retro sports patterns and graphics worked alongside lightweight materials to capture this idea of fast life on the go- Be it on the move in London on a summer's day or riding cross country through North Africa.

Belstaff know how to make an edgy impact throughout their collections and their SS18 presentation was no exception. By embracing the intrepid spirit of the modern explorer, Belstaff's new season collection encapsulates the demands of today's generation while exuding a youthful essence.

'Paris to Dakar' pays homage to the brand's history, while looking to the next exciting chapter of their story. We can't wait to see where the road takes Belstaff next.

 

Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press| @londonellagram

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer| @tegan.photography

 

 

For KTZ SS18,   we saw an urban utilitarian collection that was underpinned by a strong narrative of struggle. A number of looks both presented and subverted traditional icons of repression and control. Military khakis were slashed through with shards of metal, black collared jackets paired with straight leg trousers or tailored shorts and heavy black boots recalled police uniforms and yet were emblazoned with images of hands forming the shapes of hearts or slogans such as "club of nowhere". even what, at first glance, appeared to be knightly chainmail worn as vests or sleeves or even dripping from baseball caps like visors turned out to be a mesh of interlinked soda can ring pulls.

It was in this incoclasm that KTZ's SS18 collection struck a pleasantly truthful discordant note. In an age of Kendall Jenner handing out Pepsi as a tonic to a world burning down around us, it struck a slightly truer chord with the British punk spirit that ring pulls we're now being used to obscure a face rather than sell one.

The narrative of struggle become very much one of violent resistance as the collection moved into check flannel shirts and distressed denim. With skinhead models in khaki bomber jackets and biker boots a la 'This Is England' or black nylon hoodies, checked scarfs worn like masks, baseball caps and black biker gloves (with specially reinforced knuckles) the runway became a stage for defiant proletariat riot gear.

At a time of great uncertainty in British politics and economics, huge rifts in class and opportunity, and repeated violent attacks on British people and our way of life. This London collection paid passionate tribute to a great history of struggle and rebellion against oppression and was a great reminder that we will overcome. Of course we will, this is England.

Words: Mitchell Cooper | Fashion Week Press | @catsandjackets
Images: Tegan Rush  Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography