Tag: lfw2017

ON|OFF returned for its 15th annual showcase at London Fashion Week 2017, presenting the seasons’ three most exciting international talents: Jack Irving, Luke Anthony Rooney and CAPLANENTWISLE.

To kick off what would prove to be one of the most diverse catwalks of the week, the ON|OFF showcase took on the invigorating atmosphere of a music concert, thanks live a performance from the equally rising talents of London based indie-pop band, Stereo Honey.

 

First out on the catwalk was the SS18 collection “Resort”, by CAPLANENTWISLE. Adam Entwisle and Emma Caplan joined forces after graduating from Central St Martins in 1999, going on to found not one, but two cult labels, Horace and Buddhist punk as famously worn by The Rolling Stones.

Now, the eponymous design team return, with a collection inspired by the reformed millennial attitude toward freedom and diversity. Oversized jackets, frayed hems and hand-painted denim infused the collection with that raw, unrefined sense of reckless youth. A mood surmised by the classic-cut slogan tee professing, ‘we are all colour here’.

Luke Anthony Rooney’s signature colourful designs followed on seamlessly. Less rough-and-ready around the edges perhaps, Rooney’s SS18 collection continued the relaxed vision of millennial society.

Silk slip dresses and easy-fit tailoring provided a sophisticated sense of elegance, light, airy fabrics creating a sense of movement, while the playful use of colour and simple hair and makeup styling, added to the youthful feel of the collection.

Jack Irving brought something a touch more extravagant to the catwalk. Having famously designed for Lady Gaga, Irving’s blow-up designs can certainly not be classed as ready-to-wear…

We can’t be certain where Iriving gets his inspiration for these avant-garde pieces, but whether he’s an avid deep-sea diver or got abducted by aliens as a child, his SS18 designs are nothing short of fabulous.

From metallic warrior-esque body-suits, to what looked like inflatable anemones, his models both shocked and commanded the catwalk in incredible platform heels.

There’s no doubt that ON|OFF presents has this year succeeded in promoting three soon-to-be dominating design talents.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

On Tuesday 19th, The National Portrait Gallery welcomed another art form to stand alongside their historical collection. 

Tata Naka designers, Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, presented their vintage-inspired SS18 womenswear collection on the third floor of The National Portrait Gallery; a presentation which sat easily amongst the grandeur of its setting.

The Tata Naka SS18 collection saw seasonal summer stripes and vintage florals in contrasting aubergine and daffodil hues; high-waisted tailoring and wide collars gave the collection a retro-feel while the addition of side slits and bare-shoulder necklines remained in-keeping with forecast Spring/Summer trends.

The styling was done to artistic perfection. Dark lipstick and a reflective sheen to the contouring, giving the models an artificial quality  - real-life portraits of modern-vintage dress.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Designer Jamie Wei Huang’s SS18 collection, “Dew”, was inspired by the fragmented recounting and retelling of personal experience. It was a concept drawn from Huang’s reflection on her own traditional Taiwanese culture, and captured by the beautiful, hesitantly accumulative piano piece which instigated her show.

 

The story began in stripes. Blues, pinks and greens growing in depth and vivacity with each piece, a gradual solidifying of colours to correlate that of re-emerging memory; the punctuation of bold reds, yellows and cobalt in the shoes and accessories, providing those colourful splashes of certainty which continue to emerge throughout the collection.

Huang’s Spring/Summer designs favour easy-fit clothing; wedding dresses and jumpsuits tying into her signature style of elongated silhouettes with a focus on creating contemporary fashion for the modern woman.

Wedding Dresses

The concept of construction was apparent in the rough-cut hems, sewn on pockets and undisguised use of zips, drawstrings and metallic rings which both decorated the pieces and acted as functional elements of the designs.

Creative cut-outs were another standout feature, with gaping knees and bare-backed jackets building on the impression of fragmented recollection, while asymmetric designs alluded to the inevitable incompleteness of memory.

Denim-look fabrics, and the brave contrasting of colour-block socks with easy slip-on sandals concluded the collection with a sense of layered individuality, promoting self-expression through contemporary fashion.

Originally from Taiwan, Huang graduated from Central Saint Martins College in London in 2012, launching her designer label Jamie Wei Huang to great critical acclaim in 2013; winning both the “Designer For Tomorrow” award, and the “Elle talent Award” for her AQ14 collection. Huang’s designs are now sold internationally in luxury retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Dover Street Market, David Jones Sydney and mimma ninni.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Perhaps the most sophisticated show of the weekend, Rohmir not only showcased the weeks youngest fashion stars, welcoming three adorable child models to the catwalk, but was stepped out to a live operatic performance.  

A-line Wedding Dresses

Setting out to capture the passion of classic Italian beauty, Rohmir’s SS18 collection entitled “Sparkling”, boasts yet another line of timeless ready-to-wear pieces which scream out nobility and class.

Ball Gown Wedding Dresses

 

The SS18 colour palette remained simple, yet sophisticated; with navy and cream, meeting midnight and sky blues. Rohmir favours v-neck or crew-cut necklines, her dresses classically tailored to create a sleek finish which compliments the female silhouette.

Adding to the aura of elegance and glamour, Rohmir’s SS collection keeps its “Sparkling” promise, with beads and sequins studding the gowns and decorating the hemlines, while side-slit skirts and open backs give the collection a touch of risqué.

A stand-out piece came in the form a beautiful white wrap-around gown, one of two pieces decorated from top to toe in delicate applique flowers.

Ruffled collars and flared sleeves were just a couple more standout features of the collection, which was not simply walked, but theatrically performed by its talented cast of models, beautifully made up with 30s inspired hair and classic smoky eyes credit to Kryolan UK and Tony and Guy.

Confidently showcased, designer Olga Roh put on a truly outstanding showcase on every level of detail, earning herself a celebratory walk of the runway in one of her own stunning designs.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Sarah Mildred | Fashion Week Photographer | @Sarah_Mildred

Sidharth Singhis's, contemporary womenswear label, grew out of a remote Village in North East India.

Eponymous to its principles, N&S GAIA prides itself on its sustainable use of fabrics, specialising in natural fibres and pioneering the exploration into upcycling techniques, the ‘N’ and ‘S’ of its name, standing for Nature and Sustainability.

The SS18 collection further develops the designers signature style; free-flowing fabrics and long hems, tapestry-esque motifs and the incorporation and modernisation of traditional Indian embroidery technique, Dakamanda.

Turning from the vibrant shades of rouge, cherry and yellow from his AW17 collection Hybrid, Singhis’s SS palette introduces more delicate pastel colourings in tie-dye effect, the earthy tones of autumn replaced by camel and sand.

The lightness of the fabrics gives the collection an air of fluidity and movement; wide-legged trousers, shift dresses and wrap-around jackets which billow at the hems and create a sense of airiness and serenity which perfectly embodies the multi-cultural expression of the collections home-country, while further encapsulating the romantic connotations of spring.

To contrast the relaxed sentiment of the silk, the pieces come embellished with black-beads and sequins, wide embroidered collars and oversized statement jewellery, which grant the collection a flair of expense and oriental richness.

In anticipation of upcoming trends, we can see in this collection the common threads of pink, yellow and pastel blues which have been favourites across the fashion weekend. Side slits, wide sleeves and exaggerated ruffles can also be recognised as common features of next years’ SS collections.

Overall the SS18 N&S GAIA collection presents itself as an expression of multiculturalism, nature and the calming nature of femininity, from North East India, to South East England, may Singhis's designs sustain you through the summer.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography