London Fashion Week is where we get all our style tips - the place to wear the most fabulous outfits of the season while taking note of what to be wearing for the next!
So, now that the SS19 shows have come to an end we can take our eyes away from the catwalk and focus on what we spotted off the runway. Our favourites (to name a few) feature bursts of orange, wild prints, checks on checks, full on fringing and not forgetting 70s inspired florals. Whether you were flying solo or a power couple, serious coordination was key and caught our attention wherever we turned! You heard and saw it here first, these are the trends we'll be watching this autumn.
Always elegantly disciplined, designer Edeline Lee injected some vibrant, dance fuelled joy into her LFW Spring/Summer 2019 show. Deploying any form of dance presentation at fashion week can be a risky affair, however, for Lee all the energy and movement simply showcased her appetite for freedom. Lee believes that "As a designer, I view myself to be in service to women, helping them to be well within their selves and giving them tools to construct and express their identities to the outside world." She also backed up this committed with impeccable cutting and dynamic prints.
Amongst all the music, fun and action it was clear that her SS19 collection marked another bold step forward for this fast rising designer. Charged with ruffles and flounces, Lee used these to create movement with a positive spin. "Fashion is a playground for experimentation with performance and identity," she shared. This meant enlisting uplifting, powerful colours such as scarlet and ochre to ultimately bypass too girlie a summer look.
With dance legends including Trajal Harrell and Pina Bausch as inspiration she kept exploring the relationship between functionality and femininity. Featuring 28 looks, Lee's energy refused to plateau and hit an even more playful note by introducing a bold zig-zag pattern. Her off kilter colour choices of brown and green played off against scarlet, blue, ivory and ochre proved again that this collection was designed for women with character and quirk.
The use of ruffles and ruching became a precision point operation that involved either tiny, pin-hemmed versions or scrunched ruffles and eventually voluptuous, doubled and rolled flounces.Even Lee's shoes were given the ruffle effect.
Lee appreciates that her muse, 'the future lady' as she like to call her "is searching for and assuming diverse identities for different moments in their lives." Lee arms this journey with beautifully cut dresses and skirts that have enough fashion intelligence to also deliver movement and ease.
During LFW there has been much discussion about empowering fashion. But for Lee, like her brand, it’s about arming oneself for the female journey and using fashion as one's passport.
Malene Oddershede Bach presented a compelling garden of earthly delights for her Spring/Summer 2019 show. Bach is a master of juxtaposing tensions, and for SS19 she explored the dynamic between feminine clothing defined with tomboyish details.
The push and pull between masculine and feminine energies is a powerful theme. And it gave her LFW show a certain intrigue.
Staged against a background of botanicals at the historical Ennismore Sessions House, there was an eerie beauty that fell upon the show. One couldn’t help wonder what lies beneath Bach's delicate floaty floral prints and stunning red carpet creations? For the Danish-born designer, there is always something modern and complex even to her most romantic dresses.
She also charged ahead to include practical classic British stables such as shirt-dresses, PVC rain hats and rain macs. In Bach’s world a woman can never be too prepared. Especially when she doesn’t want to be compromised from wearing Bach’s luxurious jacquards and meticulous floral embroideries.
The London based designer was ever diligent in innovating her brand - whether through new fabrications or playing with such urban staples as bomber jackets.
But it was the haunting focus on intricately embroidered Icelandic poppies that gave Bach's show its real meaning. Poppies appear fragile, and yet sustain against all environmental odds. Bach understands beauty can survive even the harshest conditions and she insured every one of her SS19 creations showed that strength.
Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press
Images: Chris Yates
Roberta Einer’s trademark hypnotic beads, sequins and prints where out in force for her SS19 collection. It’s her radiant magpie aesthetic that first caught the fashion industry’s affections, but now this fast-rising designer has boldly changed frequency again.
It takes a certain poetic courage to pour so much compassion into a collection, but Einer did just that. As her LFW collection linked along the runway, it was clear Einer wanted to bring to the surface a new womanly integrity whilst never loosing site of her playful embellishments and hand-embroidery decoration.
What comes first for Einer, being a global citizen or a fashion designer? Her Estonian upbringing and love of 70's Moroccan culture certainly are an influences, as too living in London. It’s the 25-years-old's melting pot of life experiences that insured her SS19 collection could only be a maximist success.
Her personal influences found their way onto the runway in the form of bags like precious Moroccan rug, easy hoodies, lightweight cocktail dresses and pyjama style layers.
But it was the quieter moments when 70's inspired knitwear appeared, their colours as though a fading Moroccan summer set, that were as rewarding as her gorgeous sequin hybrids.
Created in collaboration with knitwear designers Alice Lee and Kate Brittain, they were the perfect calming moment in the show. As too, the easiness of wrap ground skirts and the breezy silhouettes brought a gentle balance to the sequins and beads.
Much has been written about Einer’s previous internship experience at Alexander McQueen, Balmain and Mary Katrantzou. But its her own daring, experimental designs that continue to climb to new personal heights, and we all want to go on the journey with her.
Like a Twilight Zonedaydream humming away in the backs of our minds, Starsica walked a surreal line for SS19. Designer Ike Seungik Lee’s collection was a strange cocktail of synthetic and distorted retoesque glamour.
It was a beautiful and compelling collection and the models enjoyed themselves clicking away to cool jazz. Charming indeed, but still hypnotic, as Lee explored how fashion is defined and invented through the prisms of television and social media.
Like the perfect wardrobe for a surreal cocktail partythere were dramatically cut shoulders and sleeves. Amongst floating multi-tiered dresses of serene pastels and tropic prints, occasionally a shot of plastic appeared.
One standout was a plastic coat covered with sticker images in the Fornasetti style of Roman busts.
Lee didn’t censor his imagination, nor its media memories. Rather, it was an interesting play on tensions; with exaggerated TheJetsons-like dresses and dollops of irresistible accessories, including funky handbags and earrings.
As models wafted down the runway in these exaggerated silhouettes one wondered had Lee indulged in some brightly coloured “mother’s little helpers”? Indeed, Lee is the perfect enabler for our fashion addictions, and with so many sumptuous dresses, don’t expect him to wake us if we OD.