Tag: LFW Spring/Summer 2019

 

Edeline Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Always elegantly disciplined, designer Edeline Lee injected some vibrant, dance fuelled joy into her LFW Spring/Summer 2019 show. Deploying any form of dance presentation at fashion week can be a risky affair, however, for Lee all the energy and movement simply showcased her appetite for freedom. Lee believes that "As a designer, I view myself to be in service to women, helping them to be well within their selves and giving them tools to construct and express their identities to the outside world."  She also backed up this committed with impeccable cutting and dynamic prints.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

Amongst all the music, fun and action it was clear that her SS19 collection marked another bold step forward for this fast rising designer. Charged with ruffles and flounces, Lee used these to create movement with a positive spin. "Fashion is a playground for experimentation with performance and identity," she shared. This meant enlisting uplifting, powerful colours such as scarlet and ochre to ultimately bypass too girlie a summer look.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

With dance legends including Trajal Harrell and Pina Bausch as inspiration she kept exploring the relationship between functionality and femininity.  Featuring 28 looks, Lee's energy refused to plateau and hit an even more playful note by introducing a bold zig-zag pattern. Her off kilter colour choices of  brown and green played off against scarlet, blue, ivory and ochre proved again that this collection was designed for women with character and quirk.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

The use of ruffles and ruching became a precision point operation that involved either tiny, pin-hemmed versions or scrunched ruffles and eventually voluptuous, doubled and rolled flounces.Even Lee's shoes were given the ruffle effect.

Lee appreciates that her muse, 'the future lady' as she like to call her "is searching for and assuming diverse identities for different moments in their lives." Lee arms this journey with beautifully cut dresses and skirts that have enough fashion intelligence to also deliver movement and ease.

Edeline Lee FW Spring/Summer 2019

During LFW there has been much discussion about empowering fashion. But for Lee, like her brand, it’s about arming oneself for the female journey and using fashion as one's passport.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Imagery: Benjamin Tietge 

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

Malene Oddershede Bach presented a compelling garden of earthly delights for her Spring/Summer 2019 show. Bach is a master of juxtaposing tensions, and for SS19 she explored the dynamic between feminine clothing defined with tomboyish details.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

The push and pull between masculine and feminine energies is a powerful theme. And it gave her LFW show a certain intrigue.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

Staged against a background of botanicals at the historical Ennismore Sessions House, there was an eerie beauty that fell upon the show. One couldn’t help wonder what lies beneath Bach's delicate floaty floral prints and stunning red carpet creations? For the Danish-born designer, there is always something modern and complex even to her most romantic dresses.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

She also charged ahead to include practical classic British stables such as shirt-dresses, PVC rain hats and rain macs. In Bach’s world a woman can never be too prepared. Especially when she doesn’t want to be compromised from wearing Bach’s luxurious jacquards and meticulous floral embroideries.

Ennismore Sessions House, London UK. 17th September 2018. Malene Oddershede Bach shows her designs at her Spring Summer 2019 presentation. © Chris Yates

The London based designer was ever diligent in innovating her brand - whether through new fabrications or playing with such urban staples as bomber jackets.

But it was the haunting focus on intricately embroidered Icelandic poppies that gave Bach's show its real  meaning. Poppies appear fragile, and yet sustain against all environmental odds. Bach understands beauty can survive even the harshest conditions and she insured every one of her SS19 creations showed that strength.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press
Images: Chris Yates

 

 

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Like a Twilight Zone daydream humming away in the backs of our minds, Starsica walked a surreal line for SS19. Designer Ike Seungik Lee’s collection was a strange cocktail of synthetic and distorted retoesque glamour.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

It was a beautiful and compelling collection and the models enjoyed themselves clicking away to cool jazz. Charming indeed, but still hypnotic, as Lee explored how fashion is defined and invented through the prisms of television and social media.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Like the perfect wardrobe for a surreal cocktail party there were dramatically cut shoulders and sleeves. Amongst floating multi-tiered dresses of serene pastels and tropic prints, occasionally a shot of plastic appeared.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

One standout was a plastic coat covered with sticker images in the Fornasetti style of Roman busts.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Lee didn’t censor his imagination, nor its media memories. Rather, it was an interesting play on tensions; with exaggerated The Jetsons-like dresses and dollops of irresistible accessories, including funky handbags and earrings.

Starsica LFW Spring/Summer 2019

As models wafted down the runway in these exaggerated silhouettes one wondered had Lee indulged in some brightly coloured “mother’s little helpers”?  Indeed, Lee is the perfect enabler for our fashion addictions, and with so many sumptuous dresses, don’t expect him to wake us if we OD.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Images: Simon Armstrong

Steventai LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Film director Sofia Coppola is an interesting muse to cite as inspiration for Steventai Spring/Summer 2019 collection. Despite the current aggressive visual cultural, Steven Tai stuck to his guns, presenting an intimate, and yet softly glamorous 1970’s feeling in keeping with Coppola’s calm aesthetic.

Steventai LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Tai weaved his reference for Coppola’s sun-drenched 1999 debut feature, The Virgin Suicides, shot by cinematographer Edward Lachmann, into a summery, nostalgic collection. He gently adapted Coppola’s filmic signature of sun-kissed textures, golden highlights and palpable sensuality into his collection of dresses, flares and blouses. The choice of fabrics made his show even more dreamy with slinky metallics, power mesh, translucent glitter stripes and organza printed with botanical doodles.

Steventai LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Staged at The Shop At Bluebird in Covent Gardens, models stood under a canopy of hanging flowers, their fragileness emphasising Tai’s nostalgic mood. Exploring 1970’s glamour has been an interesting trend throughout LFW SS19 with emerging brands such as Art School and Jiri Kalfar all subversively distorting it.

Steventai LFW Spring/Summer 2019

For Steventai this meant turning flares, leisure suits and wallflower formal length dresses into beautiful contemporary pieces relevant to the now. In fact, everything about Tai’s gentle and richly laden show, spoke softly but with a clear vision. Like Coppola’s complex film oeuvre, he creates for the journey we go through as women.

Steventai LFW Spring/Summer 2019

The show’s nostalgic and melancholy palette of greens, burnt golds, navy and rose contrasted with form-fitted masculine shapes. Overall it easy-going sophistication meets quiet knowing. Perfect for a Coppola close-up.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press

Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

If fashion is a form of armour than what type of war was J JS Lee wanting to protect us from? In Jackie JS Lee's uplifting London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019 collection, the Korean born designer took the audience on a protective journey.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

The idea of being cocooned was prominent with Lee using silk wool and satins for her beautifully deconstructed dresses and suits. And yet her collection never felt insecure or repressed.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

It’s tempting for fashion designers to buy into the hyperbole of media and politics, but J JS Lee rose above all that and explored the human experience of wearing fashion as a tool for usefulness, integrity and indeed protection.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

With models wearing a selection of sharply cut suits, dresses and shirts in lightweight cotton poplins it felt at times as though J JS Lee was projecting the idea of urban angels. The optimistic glow of buttercup yellow, burning mustards and bold reds slowly gave way to her bigger idea of fluidity and freedom with white and metallic suits.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

Backstage after the show, crowded with impeccably dressed family and friends, Lee discussed her inspiration with WJ London for referencing half-furnished upholstering, the idea being of furniture protection covers for the arms or back of sofas.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

“We took some sculpture shapes from a furniture cover, the idea of protecting from the sofa and we took that idea," Lee said. "The off the shoulder idea came from furniture cover and we wanted to focus on details like the labels.”

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

This gave her collection its most intriguing narrative and elevated her love of deconstructed tailoring into a more fluid and considered offering. Protection meant for her focusing on the shoulders included cutout details and then alternatively cotton poplin shirts featured overlays were tightly stretched across the shoulders.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

She featured fine wool from Dugdale Bros & Co and then twisted such traditional fabrics by revealing at the back of jackets cut out raw edging. Nothing was presented without a surprise twist to the traditional. “I'm based in London and I love English heritage,” Lee told WJ London.

J JS Lee LFW Spring/Summer 2019

And she was excited by the idea of funnelling her own minimalist aesthetic into “very traditional hounds tooth from the Dugdale symbol... and we took the dry wax cotton and that was waterproof”. Her love of English heritage seemingly gave her show the right grounding to soar to new heights.

Words: Catherine Caines | Fashion Week Press
Images: Nikals Haze