For KTZ SS18, we saw an urban utilitarian collection that was underpinned by a strong narrative of struggle. A number of looks both presented and subverted traditional icons of repression and control. Military khakis were slashed through with shards of metal, black collared jackets paired with straight leg trousers or tailored shorts and heavy black boots recalled police uniforms and yet were emblazoned with images of hands forming the shapes of hearts or slogans such as "club of nowhere". even what, at first glance, appeared to be knightly chainmail worn as vests or sleeves or even dripping from baseball caps like visors turned out to be a mesh of interlinked soda can ring pulls.
It was in this incoclasm that KTZ's SS18 collection struck a pleasantly truthful discordant note. In an age of Kendall Jenner handing out Pepsi as a tonic to a world burning down around us, it struck a slightly truer chord with the British punk spirit that ring pulls we're now being used to obscure a face rather than sell one.
The narrative of struggle become very much one of violent resistance as the collection moved into check flannel shirts and distressed denim. With skinhead models in khaki bomber jackets and biker boots a la 'This Is England' or black nylon hoodies, checked scarfs worn like masks, baseball caps and black biker gloves (with specially reinforced knuckles) the runway became a stage for defiant proletariat riot gear.
At a time of great uncertainty in British politics and economics, huge rifts in class and opportunity, and repeated violent attacks on British people and our way of life. This London collection paid passionate tribute to a great history of struggle and rebellion against oppression and was a great reminder that we will overcome. Of course we will, this is England.
Words: Mitchell Cooper | Fashion Week Press | @catsandjackets
Images: Tegan Rush Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography
I kicked off my LCM schedule with an amazing show, KTZ. Held at the Old Sorting House, the collection was named Urban Warrior and that concept is certainly not lost within these pieces. Designer Marjan Pejoski wanted to compare the battles of the Ancient Greek warriors with today's modern 'Urban Warrior' - 'armed with technology and their battlefield is the street'.
First came out the monochrome designs with clear Ancient Greek inspiration, but it wasn't only the prints but also the colours that reflected this, influenced by Ancient Greek vases, which are of course iconic. The collection is described by KTZ themselves as demanding "versatility while exploring depictions of the Urban Warriors daily life and manifested mythology". They have most certainly proven there is so much versatility when it comes to menswear fashion!
This collection is everything KTZ is known for - contemporary, urban and multicultural - so fans won't be disappointed. The final walk down the catwalk showcased every piece, with a model for each outfit, and seeing it all together really made an impact. Quoting Marjan himself "Here is to the Urban Warrior that lives within us all" - which is probably the best way to sum up this inspiring collection.
Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @FashJournal
Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts_
The KTZ show at the BFC Courtyard today was in-your-face bold and loud. Renowned DJ Sasko Bezovski and designer, Marjan Pejoski - who also appointed fellow Central St Martins graduate, Koji Maruyama - founded the brand. DJ Bezovski generated the retail stores, ‘Kokontozai’ after touring the world in the 80s, combining his passion for music and fashion. The label has quickly developed a cult following with outspoken garments that feature symbols inspired by music as well as urban and indigenous influences inspired by travel.
The ethnic aesthetic behind the collection is seen in strong graphics and layers of pattern as well as the hooded silhouettes. KTZ often use social and religious difference for inspiration and this is seen in the contrast between free moving, billowing material against the heavy, restrictive jewellery worn around the neck.
The clothing was beautifully patterned in a monochrome ethnic inspired design with mirror embellishments. The closing look, made up of head-to-toe gold ribboning looked like metallic armour and stole the show. Elements of this aesthetic were seen in other outfits from gloves to trousers. Another stand out piece was an all-over sequin hooded dress, which glistened down the catwalk.
The brand’s edgy and urban slant makes glamorous cool. Streetwear influences were seen in the sport style jackets and ribbed trimming. Looks were all about layering up in a mix of patterns and finished off with heavy, strapped boots.
Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @Sunna_Naseer
Season after season the design duo at KTZ manage to come up with something to shock and wow us once again, and Spring/Summer 2014 was a highly anticipated event. The tones of Middle Eastern music filled the room and with it set off an atmosphere you would expect on an Arabian night out. Violence and disorder was a strong theme felt from the onset with a series of white outfits with religious and cultural symbolism opening the show. The models faces were covered and masked for most of the show, suggesting yet more religious connotations.
The words ‘terror’ and ‘poison’ appeared sporadically through the show on gladiator sandals and various garments. If that wasn’t unsettling enough a model in a baggy baseball tee also carried a large baseball bat, we really were kept on the edge of our seats. The collection soon diffused into a series of outfits using the world map as it’s inspiration. In a muted colour palette the print was sprawled over bomber jackets, carryall bags, and rucksacks delving into the adventure of travel.
Vibrant blue and red colour ways started to filter through towards the end with spiked hoods and draping fabrics remaining present. Bold prominent jewellery and accessories made a huge impact showing us a glimpse of what was to come. Spikes and orbs started to become more frequent and as soon as I spotted the spike-covered helmet and heard a chorus of ‘wow’ I wasn’t surprised that everyone reached for their phones to take a snap.
From start to finish an intriguing show that recognised the movement of culture and diversity within today’s society. A lot of questions remain unanswered and spectators will take away different messages from the collections meaning, but isn’t that what fashion is all about?
Words: Katie Handy-Beith| Fashion Week Press | @katiehandybeith
Images: Sol Jaureguibeitia | Fashion Week Photographer |@because_why