Tag: fashion week

There was a romantic mood in the air for Isa Arfen's SS18 presentation at Somerset House. Flowing fabrics skimmed the floor in striped and illustrated floral prints. Draped wrap dresses and ruffled trims created a feminine look. But it wasn't all soft and delicate.

Styled with a bit of edge, the models had dark, dramatic eyes and contemporary, fashion-forward hair. Gelled over and swept to one side, shaved or pixie cut.

There was a clear influence from the Far East with wedge sandals worn with white socks and traditionally cut garments in rounded shoulders, wrapped waists and maxi-length skirts. These classic design details were blended with contemporary style through cami dresses over t-shirts and trench coats in iridescent fabrics.

A neutral palette was accented with bursts of red, pink and dark green, creating a highly fashionable but wearable collection. Exactly what the brand aims to achieve – real design for real women.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Catherine Davison | Fashion Week Photographer | @caedavison

 

Renowned for working exclusively from current trends, Tuğcan Dökmen is one of the most exciting labels to emerge in the last year, creating ethereal works of art which double as luxury womenswear.

Stepping into the SS18 Tuğcan Dökmen showcase at Somerset House, was like entering into a surreal and mystical realm. Separated by taut sheaths of clear plastic, the models held an otherworldly presence, while in the background, a sinister undercurrent grew out from the tiptoeing melody, commanding the eerie atmosphere.

With this collection, the young Turkish born designer sought to create pieces which embodied the strength and beauty of the feminine. In this SS18 showcase Dökmen imagines a reality where age, ethnicity and background have no bearing on beauty; a merging of the old and the young, the light and the dark.

Building on her signature style, the Art Of Layering, Dökmen creates pieces which both exhibit and are exhibited by their models. The transparency of her chosen fabrics, tulle and organza create the illusion that her dresses are but framing the bodies they decorate – a celebration of the female form.

The vibrancy of the fabrics meanwhile, acts to eliminate all sense of fragility from this reimagined feminine beauty, instead establishing one of independence and pride.

There’s a distinct air regality about the presentation, emphasised only by the exquisite headdresses which seem fused to each of the models, adding a candid element of expense to each outfit.

Stylist, Soki Mak, must here be credited for bringing this enticing concept to life, with the slicked hair and bare make-up almost mermaid-esque in its styling, perfectly suited the mythical feel of the show, and all-the-while maintaining Dökmen’s focus on equality and unstipulated diversity.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts | Fashion Week Photographer | @rosemary_pitts

St James is the undisputed home of British men's fashion. The milliner, the tailor, the luxury shoemaker – Jermyn Street holds some of the finest brands in English heritage fashion. So it seems only right that every season this buzzing road becomes an open-air catwalk for LFWM, showcasing the best that menswear has to offer.

The sun was shining, a gentle breeze was blowing and as the clock struck eleven, the beat of Jain's Makeba marked the start of the St James's Jermyn Street show. Now an institution of mens fashion week, each season the shops and designers that call this area home come together to showcase their new season offerings to a packed audience.

As the likes of David Gandy and Jim Chapman looked on, the models appeared on the runway. Curated by GQ's fashion editor, Grace Gilfeather, the show was split into sections – lightweight suits and linen from Emma Willis and Hawes & Curtis with colour pop accents kicked off the summer tailoring edit.

Velvet blazers and silk robes announced the move into an ode to Jermyn Street's heritage, complete with pocket squares from Harvie & Hudson and Crockett & Jones loafers.

Dunhill introduced a more casual vibe with bomber jackets and roll neck sweaters, accompanied by Aquascutum and Barbour. Colours were subdued, ranging from soft greys to neutral beiges, with the odd flash of coral or turquoise adding warmth to the curated selection.

We finished up with pool side chic – shorts from Jigsaw and Turnbull & Asser got shorter and shirts became unbuttoned for a relaxed style.

As the models filed off the catwalk, the crowd seemed buoyed by the show they'd just seen – there really is no better way to shop the current season than outside in the sunshine to some great music. Everyone soon dispersed in groups into the shops on Jermyn street, where live models sat in windows displaying some of the pieces we'd just seen and others for SS17. In a fashion week world where usually we are only spectators, there is something quite special about the St James's Jermyn Street show – it feels just that bit more interactive and immersive, adding a new element to proceedings.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

 

The ocean is unfathomable to most of us. So much of it is unknown - this is where the inspiration for Alexis Carballosa's new collection, entitled 'Unbound' came from. With his signature use of gossamer fabrics to cover the head, each piece tempts us to imagine what might be found if we were free to explore the depths of the sea without limits. What would we find there in those exotic deep expanses?

If Carballosa's show is anything to go by, it's possible we might uncover anything.  Long ruffled skirts and flowing pleated cloaks offer hints of seahorses and mermaids.  Black asymmetrical frills are reminiscent of fins or flippers, while a tulip shaped skirt over trousers evokes images of seashells.  A pleated skirt is paired with an ivory sheer blouse and a silver waistband - like a glimmering fish catching the sunlight beneath the swirling surface.

The colour palette is mainly a spectrum of blues and greens - from a dazzling aquamarine and shimmering cerulean to a vibrant peacock and sparkling emerald.  But this is interspersed with a squid ink black and splashes of yellow to remind us that beneath the cool blue-green water, lurks a unique and unusual kind of beauty.

Each piece is carefully structured to give the impression of water flowing or tidal waves - as the models glided down the runway as smoothly as they would cut through water.  Whether your preferred ocean inspiration is Ariel the little mermaid or Ursula the sea witch, this underwater influenced collection is certain to capture your imagination.

Words: Niki Rooney | Fashion Week Press | United Agents

Photos: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photographer | @mvwphotographer

For Autumn / Winter 17, the design duo behind Barrus, Neslisah Yilmaz and Nur Caglayan, continue to unite their heritage with global forms of fashion in their collection which once again pays tribute to their Turkish background.  This time, they take influence from the seventh wonder of the ancient world, the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, creating a look that pairs simple clean tailoring with eye-catching embellishment.

The show opened with the confident stride of Turkey's international top model, Tulin Sahin, in bejewelled flowing gown in a rich gemstone blue.  This set the tone for the show - an opulent and elegant affair of intense hues and daring cuts.  Masculine tailored catsuits and bodysuits are given a feminine touch with beading and sleek satin collaring.

A sprinkle of sparkle on the bodice and a flash of feather at the cuff conjures images of a pensile paradise, while full skirts and fluid sleeves give a sense of movement and flow.  A sequinned jumpsuit is swathed in sheer rich purple, giving the effect of a shimmering oasis beneath.

Plunging necklines teamed with full length skirts add glamour and gloss while decorative trims draw you into the details, like delicate flowers in a lively landscape.  Opulent and intricate, this collection has complex depths as it asks your eye to return to examine the details again and again.

Colour blocking played a big part in breaking up the show into clear sections.  Autumnal plums and intense navy gave way to a subtle sage and delicate ivory as the show progressed to climax in a range of snow white gowns, showcasing a Babylonian inspired sense of structure and style. The final billowing white dress worn by Sahin as she closed the show would certainly honour Queen Amytis as she admired her infamous gardens.

Words: Niki Rooney | London Fashion Week Press | United Agents

Images: Mel Williams | London Fashion Week Photographer |  @mvwphotographer