Tag: fashion design

There was a romantic mood in the air for Isa Arfen's SS18 presentation at Somerset House. Flowing fabrics skimmed the floor in striped and illustrated floral prints. Draped wrap dresses and ruffled trims created a feminine look. But it wasn't all soft and delicate.

Styled with a bit of edge, the models had dark, dramatic eyes and contemporary, fashion-forward hair. Gelled over and swept to one side, shaved or pixie cut.

There was a clear influence from the Far East with wedge sandals worn with white socks and traditionally cut garments in rounded shoulders, wrapped waists and maxi-length skirts. These classic design details were blended with contemporary style through cami dresses over t-shirts and trench coats in iridescent fabrics.

A neutral palette was accented with bursts of red, pink and dark green, creating a highly fashionable but wearable collection. Exactly what the brand aims to achieve – real design for real women.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Catherine Davison | Fashion Week Photographer | @caedavison

 

A grand white staircase under the name Paul Costelloe sets the scene for the designer's AW17 show inside The Waldorf Hilton. As the first three models walk out, a strong tailoring theme is instantly set.

Irish tweeds, fine wools and silk jacquards make up looks with a slight nod to the Tudor period. Sleeves are exaggerated, waists are small and skirts are full.

Corseted designs emphasise the feminine silhouette and plunging necklines and slit skirts add a youthful edge to these historical shapes. Traditional fabrics are teamed brilliantly with modern English latex and leather to bring the look into the present day.

Sheer fabrics, cut-outs and a metallic colour palette also add an element of youth to the designs.

The models walk proud, confident and strong, reflecting the Paul Costelloe muse. He pays close attention to detail, creating collections out of the finest quality materials, tailored beautifully to make the wearer look and feel fantastic.

The designer has an exceptional talent for pairing textures expertly. There is a constant play between matte and sheen, smooth and tactile, delicate and structured.

In his own words, Costelloe says, "Creativity, texture and traditional designs are what I want my brand to always be." He's certainly hit the mark again with this extraordinary collection.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer

Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photographer | @mvwphotographer

Boxes upon boxes covered in plastic film sit stacked together and provide the backdrop to Haizhen Wang's LFW presentation. The parcels are packed and ready to go which is exactly what 'In Transit' is all about.

As a response to the growing immigration crisis across the world, the collection embodies the idea of transience. These nomads are dressed in protective plastics and padding, wrapped with straps, and tied into corsets, replicating packed luggage that's ready to go. Slogan badges stitched onto sleeves read, 'fragile,' 'priority' and 'handle with care.'

There's a strong sense of utility, a continuation from the brand's SS17 collection. Key fabrics include wool and shirting materials in striped patterns.

Wasp waists are accentuated in comparison to oversized pockets and collars. Silhouettes are slouchy and slightly oversized which further highlights areas that have been tied tight with belts.

The models' serious composure teamed with a no-nonsense palette of khaki, navy, black and white reflect the seriousness of the global issue that Wang explores.

A thought-provoking collection executed through clever design.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Gone fishin' was the concept behind Minki's AW17 presentation at the RSA for London Fashion Week. The designer, who loves to create a dialogue with his audience, took the Minki woman back to her childhood to the time when she was coming of age.

Exploring this journey, the collection experiments with the experience of growing-up and developing a character. For the Minki woman, this results in a balance between femininity, strength and a sense of humour.

The collection draws from the metaphor of a soul-searching fishing trip and incorporates the theme into its designs. Sailor stripes are abundant in a colour palette of red, blue and white.

The models look young but not naive. They are perfectly positioned between their childhood and womanhood - an exciting and experimental time represented through the colour palette and quirky design.

Fish lures are printed onto silk fabrics and wavy seams make up the psychedelic knitwear. Slogans and lettering are heavily embroidered onto sweatshirts with long loose threads left hanging down, un-cut. There is a huge sense of fun and light-heartedness which is balanced well with a touch of grown-up edge.

Minki has taken us from outer-space in AW16 to the mysterious seas in AW17. Who knows where we'll be heading next...

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

img_6926

A lithe group of models were the embodiment of youth at Freemason's Hall for RUN Label's SS17 catwalk presentation. Dressed in playful houndstooth and bold stripes they made a pretty picture in canary yellow and powder blue with touches of khaki adding a bit of edge.

img_6914

This medley of graphic prints teamed with flowing silk, midi-dresses and heeled sandals had a very contemporary feel. The collection exuded girly femininity but the addition of sporty bomber jackets and messy top-knots created an interesting modern aesthetic.

img_6808

img_6802

The collection -  fittingly named 'Lineal' - is the creation of Varun Sharma, the designer behind RUN Label. Sharma prides himself on his craftsmanship and print work, created in-house. These two qualities see him design the most beautifully refined garments that are both chic and modern.

img_6757

His clothing is full of personality and does not need fancy cuts or elaborate detailing to make it stand out. In fact, the clean lines and simplicity is what allows the experimental prints and bold colours to truly make stylish impact.

img_6690

img_6829

This is what makes the upcoming designer stand out from the majority of the LFW crowd. Womenswear, more often than not, is labelled as wacky and unwearable. Though there's nothing wrong with expressing artistic creativity, it makes a nice change to see a collection so wearable, straight off the catwalk.

Perhaps this is down to Sharma's time working in menswear with designers such as Carolyn Massey. Or perhaps it's just down to his pure design genius.

img_6751

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography