In her latest exploration of the woman, for AW18 Edeline Lee transported us to a secret garden, where we find Eve – still and reflective. This season Lee is taking a moment for self-reflection. Stepping into one of Lee’s presentations is always a relaxing occasion. She included a copy of Edgar Allan Poe’s The Forest Reverie within the show notes, encouraging us to pause for thought away from the hustle and bustle of the fashion week circus, whilst soothing gong music played in the background.
Whilst impeccably tailored as always, compared to Lee’s previous work this collection was fairly subdued and lacked the quirky nuances of which Lee is known for. Gone were the extreme length sleeves and abstract shapes from last season; silhouettes were monastic and modest. Lee does well to appeal to the growing market for modest high fashion.
The colour palette was suitably autumnal, consisting of rich jewel tones of deep purple, red, moss green and navy. Pieces include floor length dresses in Lee’s signature flou bubble jacquard, styled under heavy weight coats. Garments were elegantly flourished with tassels, knots and folds.
Shorter length dresses were paired with skin tight sock boots in a range of colours that disappeared underneath the dresses. Trousers were wide legged and heavy weight in floral jacquard, styled with matching ruffled cropped top. The floral elements of the collection came in deep, dark colours as well as lighter, brighter shades.
Overall, Lee’s foray into the secret garden was luxurious and refined – but missing an alluring edge.
Words: Lucy Hardy | Fashion Week Writer | @lula_har
Photography by Jessamine Cera | Fashion Week Photographer |
In a continuation of her exploration of “the future lady” and what it means to be a strong, courageous woman, Edeline Lee drew inspiration from the work of Georgia O’Keeffe for her Spring/Summer 18 presentation. Lee had travelled to New Mexico; encountering the landscapes that inspired much of O’Keeffe’s work and felt compelled to examine the idea of the feminine courage that led O’Keeffe to find her place in the world amongst the mountains of the New Mexico desert.
Lee stated that she “wanted to connect to the vulnerability and the strength at the core of every woman.”
So what does it look like to be a strong woman of today? Lee explores female courage and strength whilst pertaining to traditionally feminine silhouettes. In exploring female strength there can be a tendency amongst designers to veer toward more masculine tailoring, harsh shapes, dark colours and tough fabrics (think 80s power dressing). However, Lee’s focus is on traditional feminine shapes, soft colours and fabrics.
Dresses came in her signature flou bubble jacquard in blush, cerulean blue, nude and ivory. Cotton voile was embroidered with chain-stitched sentences from O’Keeffe’s letters such as, “I feel like myself again and I like it.” Sublimely elegant tailoring was accentuated with twists, ties and knots. Abstract shapes inspired by O’Keeffe’s iconic flowers were juxtaposed against smooth feminine lines. Lee’s signature extreme long length sleeves featured on grey jersey sweatshirts and cotton pieces with stand-out buttons.
As a collection that aims to represent women the presentation can be criticised for not featuring a range of body shapes. However, included were several looks with models in hijabs, showcasing an excellent example of how modest fashion can be incorporated into high fashion - and for this statement of inclusivity Lee must be commended.
Whether or not this collection is truly indicative of what women - present or future, want to wear, in terms of construction and elegant beauty Lee’s work was rather moving and quite possibly some of her best yet.
Words: Lucy Hardy | Fashion Week Press | @lula_har
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography
As we queued outside the On|Off space ready for the Edeline Lee presentation, munching on complimentary Pronto pots, excitement started to build. It’s the first day of LFW AW16, my first show of the season and The Vinyl Factory is certainly a great place to start; there’s no telling what delights may be hiding in their basement venues.
Having made her LFW debut in September, Edeline Lee is still relatively new to the scene, but nothing about her presentation felt amateur. Black and white tiles were scattered across the floor, covered with mountains of blue and red shredded tissue paper, creating a rugged landscape for the models to explore. The whole scene was reflected in jagged mirrors on the back wall, with slivers of each visual aspect morphing into abstract shapes and colours, forming a beautifully chaotic sensory experience.
Set against this backdrop were the clothes. Contrasting with the cool, hard texture of the environment, they seemed soft, warm and comforting. Cream was the dominant colour, paired with black piping, whilst flashes of red enlivened the collection. The designs were determinedly relaxed; huge, downy overcoats, supple sweater dresses and pantsuits were the basis of most styles. Oversized pockets adorned the range, emphasising their slouchy nature. For slightly more glamorous occasions, silhouettes became more figure-hugging and petrol green joined the line-up in the form of pretty printed dresses and glittering skinny trousers.
Finishing up with a quick stop to the Edeline Lee sweet bar (as far as I’m concerned, every presentation should come with personalised chocolate and teeth ’n’ lips), we walked through the psychedelic blue corridor and back out into the sunlight. In just a few years, the Central St Martin’s graduate has already created a well-formed and welcoming aesthetic which remained in the forefront of my mind throughout the rest of the day’s shows; a sure sign that this designer is headed for greatness.
Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett
Images: Joshua Atkins | Fashion Week Photographer
In the lofty Soho Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, Edeline Lee's SS16 presentation was well underway on day 1 with a live artistic installation that complemented its edgy surroundings. Lee's collection draws inspiration from the iconic 20th century modernist art movement through her asymmetrical, geometric designs. Her angular cuts, shapes and lines, enhance the modernist vibe while still appearing fresh. It was as if her collection had fallen out of a cubist painting!
Spring and summer wouldn't be the same without the pastel spectrum. Of course designers are constantly looking for ways to reinvent, rejuvenate and revitalise the icey, sugary tones . Edeline Lee certainly refreshes the pastel spectrum by combining it with the iconic art movement. Therefore retro and modern work together to breathe new life into such symbolic art .
Accessories are also a crucial part of Lee's playful collection. Her long diamond shaped earrings felt retro with a hint of the 80s, showing that fashion is constantly able to use the past and the present together.
Lee's homage to modern art through her carefully cultivated lines and shapes re-adapts the idea of fashion as an art form. The Lee woman therefore becomes the embodiment of modernist art work. She has meaning, she is well put together and yet still she can adapt herself into anything she chooses to be .
Edeline Lee's SS 16 presentation was an insightful look into the mind of an artist who not only sees the possibility of fashion in the future but also takes into consideration the powerful statement that fashion can make upon the world!
Words: Sophie Joaman| Fashion Week Press|
Images: Eloise Peachey | Fashion Week Photography| @eloisepeachey
Ushered into an elevator, I get plummeted into the quirky world of Edeline Lee - awash with graphic-print walls leading to stylish nooks and fashionable crannies for exploring. And exploring I do - with a complementary quintessential granola yoghurt in hand, that is. The collection encompasses everything that is starkly characteristic of AW14: monochrome set against flashes of statement cobalt blue. Even to the extent of some models sporting blue-hued brows.
One of my favourite aspects of the collection is that it's actually wearable. Amidst the abstraction and wonder that is Fashion Week, it's often hard to find something that you could contemplate on your own back. Clean-cut power jackets with colour-block detail shoulders, over-sized pussy bow blouses - even a divine layered evening dress in the season's 'IT' colour. Heaven. I wouldn't mind a pair of the uniquely customised sneakers, either.
To view previous lookbooks, check out the designer's website.
For keeping on your toes with all things LFW, wander this way.
Words: Ebony Lauren Nash | Fashion Week Press | @Ebzo
Images: Amie Caswell | Fashion Week Photographer