Tag: Central Saint Martins

Honing together the efforts of the upcoming design elite is always going to create an explosion of a show, and CSM AW14 proved no different. The MA showcase combined the talent of eleven finalists who competed for the L'oreal Professionnel Creative Award with Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Course. With alumni of the institution including the likes of Stella McCartney, Jonathan Saunders and Alexander McQueen, it's little surprise that the collections were forward-thinking and raw. Of the students, the two who snapped up the L'oreal prize were Michael Power and Ondrej Adamek; a decision that was ultimately decided on by none other than CSM alumni Christopher Kane. The decision cannot have been an easy one, to say the least - just feast your eyes on the collections we were graced with:

Teruhiro Hasegawa

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Outlining the collection with a steady theme of bodycon nylon, especially mildly bizarre head socks, the Japanese designer conveyed a penchant for striking monochrome with red accenting throughout. With a swathing of floating fabrics, the pieces held a strict oxymoron between ethereal and futurism.

Drew Henry

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Chloé Award winner, Drew Henry, is no stranger to success. A luxurious take on the utility trend, Henry juxtaposes satiny box-shaped jackets with fur accents. And by accents, we mean: heels, dresses, gloves, panels - the lot.

Graham Fan

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Using a selection of tightly woven panels, this monochrome-meets-metallics collection definitely brought the term 'fierce' to mind - using thick neckpieces and silver accents which in turn, brought about visions of armour and even chain-mail.

Jessica Mort

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As the proud recipient of the Stella McCartney scholarship, Jessica Mort's fringe-heavy collection was bound to be an eye-catcher. Using an amalgamation of rich reds, blues and greens with consistent white 'shredder' fringing, the pieces hit postmodern proportions - whilst retaining the traditional collar.

Anita Hirlekar

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With accolades including the receipt of the Isabella Blow Foundation MA Fashion Fund, and winning J.Crew's Cashmere Project, Hirlekar had a bar to surpass with this collection - and she succeeded. The heavily embroidered collection revealed endless hours of crafting, with a colour palette as rich as the detailing.

Nayuko Yamamoto

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Asymmetrical geometric shapes tied together the basis of Yamamoto's collection: white block cut-outs strewn upon oversized floral foil gowns. Layering played its part, matching or colour-blocking trousers set against the predominantly silver foil-look bodies.

Fiona Blakeman

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Another recipient of the Isabella Blow Foundation MA Fashion Fund, Blakeman's work this season focused primarily around a beige colour scheme with mesh cut-outs, to such an extent that it conjured images of uh, giraffes. The often revealing cut-outs brought a risqué feel to what otherwise could've been a quiet collection.

Rory Parnell-Mooney

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A clean-cut, angular take on monk-esque robes was presented by L'oreal Professionnel Scholarship winner Parnell-Mooney. With a focus on AW14 'IT' colour, blue - the pieces incorporated layering and floating panels throughout.

Serena Gili

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Holder of both a Sarabande MA Scholarship and winner of J.Crew's Cashmere Project, Gili's collection did not disappoint. With a truly intricate collection, featuring a heavy array of different details, beaded net sweaters and reflective lampshade skirts - there was plenty to feast the eyes upon.

Ondrej Adamek

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One of the joint winners of the competition, this collection by Adamek was a storm. Using bold geometric but almost even floral shapes - to such an extent they practically obscured models' vision - the pieces were bold in the AW14 hues of cobalt blue and pink. Vertical stripes adorned slim-fit dresses and promise dripped from every inch of fabric.

Michael Power

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The other proud winner of the L'oreal Professionnel Creative Award, Power's collection lived up to his namesake - bold, almost tribal detailing over floating monochrome dresses. Teamed with quirky block shoes and robust jewellery, we're going to see a lot more from this designer in the future.

To catch up with the work of Central Saint Martins, visit their website.

For keeping up to date with LFW goings on, check the site.

 

Words: Ebony Lauren Nash | Fashion Week Press | @Ebzo

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts_

Last friday, Who's Jack headed down the British Library in Kings Cross for a 'Fashion Flashback' event, held by Central Saint Martins. We were in for an absolute treat. Walking into the unbelievably awe-inspiring British Library main hall, we were greeted with pop up shops selling fashion themed books, a photobooth with Beyond Retro props, and an opportunity to have our portrait drawn by a Fashion Illustrator.

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At 8pm, we went to see a talk with Vogue Illustrator Tanya Ling, and GQ editor Dylan Jones. The speakers were advocating the use of our libraries as a way in which to research in fashion; using the endless newspaper and magazine collections to get a feel for what fashion was like in certain era's; but also, what else was happening in society at the time. Dylan Jones spoke of how, tactile research in a library could lead you into other areas you wouldn't have even thought of - a book about elephants being next to a book about elegant neck ties for example. Inspiration is all around you in a library, and Tanya and Dylan argued that inspiration was more immediate and diverse than using the internet. Dylan was perhaps too persistant in his dislike of online media, stating that everyone should start in print. We did wonder, if he had to begin his journalistic career in 2013, if he would feel the same? Although, we have to say, he was willing to accept the growing importance of apps, and his allowing GQ to be available for download.

Tanya spoke about how she was inspired by environments and objects; her current inspiration being Wimbledon Common. Dylan really hammered home the fact that he wants fashion journalists to retain the use of a pen and paper, and to write long "proper" articles, not just quick blog posts.

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Both speakers had a fair point, and with the back drop of the British Library, we left the talk feeling hugely inspired and eager to research!

We later watched a talk with both fashion academic Ian R Webb, and fashion author (How To Walk In High Heels) Camilla Morton. Morton was slightly away with the fairys, but this all seems to be part of her charm, as she rattled on, and on about her gallivanting around Paris with John Galliano. Morton spoke about her use of fairytales in order to bring fashion to life. Ian Webb gave, in comparison, a very regimented lecture on his use of the library and it's endless resources. Webb put together an absorbing presentation about the process he uses (from start to finish) when creating his books. He also delved into his love for David Bowie. We loved him.

At 9pm the Saint Martin's Fashion Print Students held a fashion show, with their models using the escalators and stairs as a vibrant catwalk. The designs were incredible, created out of paper and inspired by the British Library's images in the Russian and Japanese collections. Hair was styled by Trevor Sorbie, and make-up was by Chantecaille.

A fantastic event, and one which we hope is repeated in the future. For only £7.00 (£5 for concessions), we had a fabulous evening of fashion, culminating in a dance floor of very stylish dancers, who had had their fair fill of Vogue inspired cocktails, and been styled by the make-over team from Chantecaille, who were inspired by Cecile Beaton for the evening.