Tag: catwalk

ON|OFF returned for its 15th annual showcase at London Fashion Week 2017, presenting the seasons’ three most exciting international talents: Jack Irving, Luke Anthony Rooney and CAPLANENTWISLE.

To kick off what would prove to be one of the most diverse catwalks of the week, the ON|OFF showcase took on the invigorating atmosphere of a music concert, thanks live a performance from the equally rising talents of London based indie-pop band, Stereo Honey.

 

First out on the catwalk was the SS18 collection “Resort”, by CAPLANENTWISLE. Adam Entwisle and Emma Caplan joined forces after graduating from Central St Martins in 1999, going on to found not one, but two cult labels, Horace and Buddhist punk as famously worn by The Rolling Stones.

Now, the eponymous design team return, with a collection inspired by the reformed millennial attitude toward freedom and diversity. Oversized jackets, frayed hems and hand-painted denim infused the collection with that raw, unrefined sense of reckless youth. A mood surmised by the classic-cut slogan tee professing, ‘we are all colour here’.

Luke Anthony Rooney’s signature colourful designs followed on seamlessly. Less rough-and-ready around the edges perhaps, Rooney’s SS18 collection continued the relaxed vision of millennial society.

Silk slip dresses and easy-fit tailoring provided a sophisticated sense of elegance, light, airy fabrics creating a sense of movement, while the playful use of colour and simple hair and makeup styling, added to the youthful feel of the collection.

Jack Irving brought something a touch more extravagant to the catwalk. Having famously designed for Lady Gaga, Irving’s blow-up designs can certainly not be classed as ready-to-wear…

We can’t be certain where Iriving gets his inspiration for these avant-garde pieces, but whether he’s an avid deep-sea diver or got abducted by aliens as a child, his SS18 designs are nothing short of fabulous.

From metallic warrior-esque body-suits, to what looked like inflatable anemones, his models both shocked and commanded the catwalk in incredible platform heels.

There’s no doubt that ON|OFF presents has this year succeeded in promoting three soon-to-be dominating design talents.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Rosemary Pitts |Fashion Week Photographer|@rosemarypitts

Perhaps the most sophisticated show of the weekend, Rohmir not only showcased the weeks youngest fashion stars, welcoming three adorable child models to the catwalk, but was stepped out to a live operatic performance.  

A-line Wedding Dresses

Setting out to capture the passion of classic Italian beauty, Rohmir’s SS18 collection entitled “Sparkling”, boasts yet another line of timeless ready-to-wear pieces which scream out nobility and class.

Ball Gown Wedding Dresses

 

The SS18 colour palette remained simple, yet sophisticated; with navy and cream, meeting midnight and sky blues. Rohmir favours v-neck or crew-cut necklines, her dresses classically tailored to create a sleek finish which compliments the female silhouette.

Adding to the aura of elegance and glamour, Rohmir’s SS collection keeps its “Sparkling” promise, with beads and sequins studding the gowns and decorating the hemlines, while side-slit skirts and open backs give the collection a touch of risqué.

A stand-out piece came in the form a beautiful white wrap-around gown, one of two pieces decorated from top to toe in delicate applique flowers.

Ruffled collars and flared sleeves were just a couple more standout features of the collection, which was not simply walked, but theatrically performed by its talented cast of models, beautifully made up with 30s inspired hair and classic smoky eyes credit to Kryolan UK and Tony and Guy.

Confidently showcased, designer Olga Roh put on a truly outstanding showcase on every level of detail, earning herself a celebratory walk of the runway in one of her own stunning designs.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Sarah Mildred | Fashion Week Photographer | @Sarah_Mildred

Sidharth Singhis's, contemporary womenswear label, grew out of a remote Village in North East India.

Eponymous to its principles, N&S GAIA prides itself on its sustainable use of fabrics, specialising in natural fibres and pioneering the exploration into upcycling techniques, the ‘N’ and ‘S’ of its name, standing for Nature and Sustainability.

The SS18 collection further develops the designers signature style; free-flowing fabrics and long hems, tapestry-esque motifs and the incorporation and modernisation of traditional Indian embroidery technique, Dakamanda.

Turning from the vibrant shades of rouge, cherry and yellow from his AW17 collection Hybrid, Singhis’s SS palette introduces more delicate pastel colourings in tie-dye effect, the earthy tones of autumn replaced by camel and sand.

The lightness of the fabrics gives the collection an air of fluidity and movement; wide-legged trousers, shift dresses and wrap-around jackets which billow at the hems and create a sense of airiness and serenity which perfectly embodies the multi-cultural expression of the collections home-country, while further encapsulating the romantic connotations of spring.

To contrast the relaxed sentiment of the silk, the pieces come embellished with black-beads and sequins, wide embroidered collars and oversized statement jewellery, which grant the collection a flair of expense and oriental richness.

In anticipation of upcoming trends, we can see in this collection the common threads of pink, yellow and pastel blues which have been favourites across the fashion weekend. Side slits, wide sleeves and exaggerated ruffles can also be recognised as common features of next years’ SS collections.

Overall the SS18 N&S GAIA collection presents itself as an expression of multiculturalism, nature and the calming nature of femininity, from North East India, to South East England, may Singhis's designs sustain you through the summer.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

Bold and brazen, the steadfast duo of Teatum Jones brought their usual essence of brash elegance to the catwalk with their SS18 collection.

Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones have risen fast and climbed high up the official fashion week guest list. Having been named the UKDT Best Womenswear Designers of 2015 and last year following up with the British Isles 2016 International Woolmark Prize for their textural statements, the couples’ luxurious womenswear is now stocked by some of the world’s most luxurious stores: Net-a-porter, Harvey Nichols and Liberty, to name a few.

The SS18 collection took charge with a clash of mustard and indigo. Wide sleeves and asymmetric hem-lines appearing yet again as the no-1 rule of next years’ SS-fashion. As always, texture takes an important role of the Teatum Jones designs, with intricate pleated details, contrasting with the sleek v-cut necklines and billowing sleeves. The ability to achieve so many different aesthetics with the same material, an iconic quality of Teatum Jones designs.

Understated, but in no way ineffective, Teatum Jones used cut-outs to a minimalist effect, giving this all-black outfit a futuristic edge, while again, the mismatch of texture in the pleating, infuse the look with a superfluity which could only come of such exquisite attention to detail.

The cut-out theme developed into the collections’ more casual designs, longline shirt dresses slipping serenely off one shoulder; the early shades of confidence calming to a more functional blue, with camel loafers adding to that day-to-night composure.

This day-to-night feel became only more pronounced with the introduction of salmon and cerulean. Relaxed-fit silk shirts, followed up by wide tailored coats and fur-cuffed slippers.

Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are not only widely admired for their elegant collections, but also for their design ethics; having cast two disabled models, Kelly Knox and Jack Eyeres in their AW17 show as a statement against lack of diversity in the fashion industry.

Their SS18 showcase extended the sentiment, inviting Paralympian equestrian rider, Natasha Baker, to walk the runway.

Words: Scarlett Sangster | Fashion Week Press | @scarlettgracehs

Images: CMPR Imagery

The Berthold catwalk show at 180 The Strand is a collection made up of predominantly black menswear and womenswear. That’s why when the primary colours yellow, red and blue start to make an appearance, the impact is all the more striking. They crop up subtly in the details before they dominate the pieces from head-to-toe, as if they have completely engulfed the previous darkness and left in its place rays of sunshine.

The symbolism originates from a darker subject matter altogether. Research for the collection involved gathering photographs of child soldiers in Sierra Leone, Uganda, Liberia and Nigeria.

In one of the photographs, a group of young boys wear shorts with oversized pockets and belts that dwarf their frames. Yet still, they pose confidently, as though they are men – faking it until they make it, but betrayed by their ill-fitting clothes and youthful faces.

For Spring/Summer 2018, Berthold recreates these contrasts and documents the life-defining transition from boy to man. Enlarged sleeves are left loose to hang, extending past the models’ fingertips. Funnel necks are paired with cropped tunics and wrap front trousers are billowy rather than fitted.

Technical fabric and cloth, cottons and summer wools ensure you’ll stay cool in the heat rather than absorb it in all of those dark layers. Blankets (picnic, anyone?) are draped over cross-body bags. The bags – whether they’re oversized with several pockets or small and sit across the waist – make it easy to dip your toe into colour if you’re not willing to take the plunge just yet.

The colours allude to the optimism and brightness of youth. For the female models, sharp, geometric eye makeup created by Maria Comparetto is worn in the same primary colour palette.

The abstract graphic print reimagines shapes from traditional costumes. Influence is derived from the theatricality and majesty of the Dinka tribe in South Sudan, the Bashada people of Ethopia and the Ndebele and the Khoisan people of Southern Africa.

Now, we too, can join a tribe of our own – the Berthold tribe.

Austrian-born Raimund Berthold is the man behind the brand, which was established in 2009. He is now based in London and received his master’s from Central Saint Martins in 2005.

Words: Laura Rutkowski | Fashion Week Press | @Laura_Rutkowski

Images: Berthold