Tag: bora aksu

Settling in to our seats in the BFC Showspace on the first day of LFW AW18, we were primed and ready to start the season off with Bora Aksu’s signature florals and floating fabrics. His beautiful and feminine collections are a much-loved staple of fashion week, providing tranquillity amongst the madness. So we were all intrigued when the first model marched onto the runway in a navy tailored jacket and wide-legged trousers, no lace or sheer fabrics in sight.

Inspired by the story of Margaret Ann Bulkley, a woman back in the 1800s who had to dress as a man in order to practice as a surgeon, this season’s collection is an exploration of that metamorphosis, from woman to man and back again.

Structured silhouettes, heavy velvet materials and dark, rich colours emulated the masculine uniform that Bulkley had to wear in her role as Dr James Barry, but flamboyant edging and intricate detailing nod to the female within.

As the collection develops, hemlines become more floating, fabrics become lighter and jackets sit over dresses and skirts, juxtaposing the two opposite styles in a way that complements each of them, as well as the wearer.

Of course, it wouldn’t be an Aksu show without his florals; layers of pastel pleats in tulle and organza eventually appear on the catwalk, sat atop simple silhouettes, giving them depth and intrigue and eluding to the enigmatic nature of Bulkley and the mystery of her role.

As the models reappeared in the show space and lined up in a group ready to walk around the room one last time in a synchronised strut, the exposition that runs through the collection became even more evident. Ultimately, this collection is still the Aksu that we know and love, but his exploration of femininity now moves beyond the confines of societal expectations and stereotypes to delve into what it means to be a woman in today’s world – and indeed, for one woman in Georgian society.

 

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Photos: Mikayla Miller | Fashion Week Photographer | @mikaylajeanmiller

Yet another beautiful demonstration of craft, delicacy and, above all else, femininity; the Bora Aksu  SS16 collection honours a personal memory with  class and sensitivity.

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Recalling fond childhood summers spend in the gardens of Izmir, weaving amongst the kaleidoscope of lemon trees and pomegranate, Bora Aksu brings his nostalgia to life not only through the obvious medium of colour but with the consideration of the collection as a whole. Every recreation of the memory is detailed yet subtle with feather light silk tulle and soft pastel organza embodying the potent flowers in Aksu’s vision in the present moment. Cutwork detail follows a floral flair, blooming before our very eyes in vibrant shades of yellow, power pink and white. It’s undeniably feminine and sweet, of course, but there’s more to it than that. These flower girls are as strong as the memory itself as their willowy frames hold structured tailoring – think sharp and cropped jackets with razor definition to edges and lapels. Even the most delicate of fabrics -  lace - is given depth through powerful circular shapes, high necklines and bold shoulders.

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Aksu’s exploration of colour and light led him to Etheldreda Laing, an amateur photographer and artist from the early 20th century known for her vivid colour photographs of her daughters in the garden. These striking similarities between Laing and Asku’s own memories are brought to life as the collection veers towards the vintage with sculpted waists exploding into ballooned peplum skirts, cut to the  calf in doily-like textures, suited to any countrywoman strolled the grounds.  Moving towards a more modern light, hemlines raise and silhouettes become less defined, maintaining their ladylike quality but with a girly flourish. Mini dresses are soft and strapless; fluid and sheer whilst tailoring becomes engulfed in embellishment, draped over prim and prepped shirts and vests. The women themselves, the representation of Laing’s daughters and the aids to his vision, become engulfed in the memory as floral details creep onto their skin through ornate tattoos before bursting forth as crowned headpieces and accessories.

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Though florals for spring, to quote one Miranda Priestly, are hardly “ground-breaking”, when they hold a meaning as personal and as inspired as this, we welcome a season in bloom with welcome arms.

 

Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Images: Zac Mahrouche & Zoe Lamb | Fashion Week Photographers

Last Autumn we published The Head Banging Series - a high octane profile of models Lex and Daria thrashing it out in a dance off. On the same day we also shot a stunning model called Gemma Janes.

Photographer Leoni Blue and I fell in love with Gemma from the moment we saw her - a complete pin up of a girl - full lips, hips and charisma. Inspired by '70s colours mixed up with '50s styling, we shot her against the back drop of a run down warehouse space tucked away in Hackney Wick. As the shoot progresses Gemma fully comes in to her own - one moment smouldering in a bikini to thrashing it out on a sofa, ripping up flowers whilst still managing to look effortlessly chic.

We predict amazing things for Gemma.

About a girl. For all the girls.

Words: Faye Héran | Fashion Stylist and Creative Director | @epinettefiles

Photography: Leoni Blue
Styling & Creative Direction: Faye Héran
Hair: Carl Fisher
Make up: Rose Angus
Assistants: Alice Munteanu, Camilla Hunt, Erika Shiotsu, Natalie Howard
Model: Gemma Janes @ Profile Models
Location: The Hackney Cut, London

Fashion Credits:

Image 1 & 2
Bikini top - Charlotte Taylor
Bikini bottoms - Felder Felder
Sunglasses - Emmanuel Katsaros

Image 3 & 4
Head scarf - Emma Shipley
Dress - Claudia Ligari
Necklace, Bracelet & Earring on head scarf - Mawi

Image 5 & 6
Collar and dress - Bora Aksu
Necklace and ring - Mawi

Image 7 - 9
Top and Trousers - Won Hundred
Necklace - Maria Francesca Pepe
Earrings - Mawi
Shoes - Zoe Lee
Gloves - Beyond Retro

London Fashion Week always comes and goes in a mere flash. This season, the weather was horrible, grey and drizzly, but it did nothing to slow down the pace or our spirits.

The way Somerset House was set up was a little different, with more emphasis on fashion film and quite a lot of the main schedule taking place away from Somerset House on certain days. We also saw a flurry of pr agencies, like Felicities, hosting hotel suites and press rooms to pamper all us press folk.

Highlights for the team came from the off schedule this season - Little Shilpa served up an unbelieveable presentation and Bas Kosters went crazy with baguettes over in East London. We also saw David Koma, Bora Aksu and Jean Pierre Braganza stole the show when it comes to dresses - from sport luxe vibes at Braganza to show stopping canary lace at Bora Aksu.

The highlight for me, was seeing all the wonderful content coming in from our writers and photographers. Deputy Fashion Week Editor, Camilla deciding her and Ashish were teenage partners in crime, to image after image of stunning backstage from shows such as Todd Lynn, Lug Von Siga and Ashley Isham.

I have included a selection of my favourites images from the team above. Good work all round, regardless of the soggy weather conditions.

For all the WJ coverage from LFW check out the Fashion Week section and @whosjacklondon

Words: Faye Heran | Fashion Week Editor | @epinettefiles

Images:

Ashley Isham and Basharatyan V - Erika Shiotsu
Bas Kosters - Sebastian McCluskey
Bernard Chandran - Rosemary Pitts
Bora Aksu - Chidubem N
Little Shilpa - Corrine Noel
Mercedes Kiev - Charlotte Smart
Pringle of Scotland - Aoise Tutty

It’s very early in the morning - 8.00am to be precise - and I’m backstage at the Bora Aksu show. There is some shouting going on, models are scattered about and the space is cramped. In my first 5 minutes I’ve apologised over 10 times for being in the way. I eventually manage to talk hair with Samantha Ward (a KMS California rep), this season the Bora look is all about the, “rural Turkish peasant who loves the outdoors” - a wild girl and the hair reflects that, it’s off the face so suggests confidence and messy enough to show you a blend of tomboy and girly. Think an up-do getting undone by tree branches.

On the makeup side, it is youthful; all the models have a rosy face -courtesy AOFMakeup - they look flushed out from roaming the wood, and it adds more youth to their already young faces. By the time I leave to take my seat at the show, everything has come together rather nicely.

8 hours later and I am exploring the punk-rebel theme backstage at the Nian show over at Fashion Scout, photographing Nihan Buruk, the designer (who by the way is gorgeous), talking tattoos and books with Ani @ Profile and watching Jimmy Q slide around the slippery floor (read: bust a move).

It’s my last show for the day and I’m worn out but happy.

Words and images: Chidubem N | @lostintalent