Tag: bfc

The BFC showspace was packed on day 4 of fashion week, expectantly waiting for Faustine Steinmetz’s girl army to take to the catwalk. Formerly eschewing shows for presentations to avoid sensationalising the fashion industry, the designer decided to make her catwalk debut back in September and learnt that she could put just as much of her own spin on it as she could with specially-designed sets, showing off her reworkings of classic styles in all their glory. And we couldn’t wait to see how the AW18 Steinmetz woman would be painted on the blank canvas of this season’s catwalk.

Set to the sounds of some of our favourite 90s R&B ladies, the collection was, as ever, a delight to the well-organised mind. Steinmetz’s staple pieces returned with fresh updates, allowing the wearer to concentrate less on what to wear and more on which piece would perfectly reflect her personality and individual style.

A veritable uniform of trench coats, shirts, jeans and slip dresses came down the runway, each nodding to the others with coordinating details and textures, but at the same time retaining its own unique DNA.

Pale green silks and woody browns wovens join the designer’s signature denim; which this season has become deeper and darker than SS18, with knitted and felted additions to both tops and jeans providing texture.

Things are definitely matchy-matchy this season, with layers of sultry silks in different finishes, cosy cream knitwear and denims of slightly different grains and colours building on top of themselves on each model into entire outfits.

Accessories, too, are not exempt from the Steinmetz treatment; Fendi-esque baguettes become beaded and covered in Swarovski crystals, adding a little glamour to casual silhouettes, and the ultimate in Parisian chic, the Hermès horse-print scarf, appeared as slinky below-the-knee skirts and slouchy handkerchief tops.

It’s impressive and, ultimately, completely baffling that Steinmetz approaches each season with the same blueprint, and yet the collections that are revealed are so unique and instantly covetable. They’re at once pieces that you could expect to find in your own wardrobe at home, but also totally fresh and exciting, speaking of a season to come where you can be both up-to-the-minute on-trend and comfortable.

As the models did their final walk and we saw the collection as a whole, it was almost like creating an outfit using that computer wardrobe from Clueless that we all long for – if you loved a top but weren’t sure if the jeans with it would suit, the outfit following along behind it would surely offer you another option that would coordinate just as well. It’s a vision for the future of fashion which inspires and delights – quite frankly, I would wear the Steinmetz uniform any day of the week.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Joshua Atkins | Fashion Week Photographer | @joshuaatkins

 

London streets were scorching on Saturday afternoon as we headed into the welcome cool darkness of the BFC presentation space. Looming ahead of us in the blackness were softly lit layers of sand-coloured nylon, forming a sun baked desert for the reveal of Qasimi's SS18 men's collection.

Beyond the material, shadows moved towards us, projecting silhouettes of loose clothing into the room, before the models stepped out into the light and formed groups staring out into the audience.

Entitled Free Fall, the collection was the perfect juxtaposition between intricate attention to detail and simplicity. Layers of classic shapes made up a casual uniform, each one made unique by subtle handcrafted features mixed with modern fabric technology. Drawstring pockets gave ruffled movement to an overcoat; clever seams created soft ruching and zips added another dimension to the designs.

Colours and textures gave an interesting depth to the collection, drawing the audience in to it as the groups of models swapped round in front of us. Waffle sat underneath silky nylon while coated canvas contrasted with dense piqué. The palette reflected the nomadic Bedouin tribes of the Middle East that inspired the collection – the sunburnt siennas and cacti khaki greens speak of their desert environment. Nuanced flashes of colour injected a modern feel into the designs, with minty greens and blushing pinks appearing in coats and shirts, accompanied by deep red and blue pinstripes.

Accessories were practical yet with a stylishly simplistic edge – effortlessly cool woven duffels with leather detailing were slung over models backs and carried on arms, finished off by sandals in neutral shades.

Qasimi's SS18 man is far more than what he seems on the surface; oh-so-practical and comfortable layers reveal an acute attention to detail and an unexpected modernity whilst also nodding to tradition. His look appears casual, thrown on to face whatever landscape he may encounter, but is in fact carefully curated piece by piece to create a complete look that encapsulates many different facets of his personality.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography

 

nowhere_aw17_0016

Walking into a derelict studio at BFC showspace, 180 The Strand, I was instantly confronted with the blank faced models at Tourne de Transmission's LFWM presentation. Stood stock-still against a backdrop of expressionist prints, the scene reminded me more of an art exhibition than a fashion show.

nowhere_aw17_0019

As I stood there reading the messages and slogans amidst the clothing, I was forced to ponder the concept behind the latest collection, "Nowhere." This doesn't come as much of a surprise, as the brand has a penchant for mixing words with visuals to generate a message.

nowhere_aw17_0018

The figures cut an androgynous silhouette, with loose-fitting garments layered in a relaxed and casual way. Sleeves fell past the wrist, baggy trousers crumpled above the ankle and hems sat asymmetrically in raw-edge finishes.

nowhere_aw17_009

There was a hint of punk/rock influence coming through from the red tartan, black boots, buzz cut hair, and predominantly dark colour palette. This was mixed with streetwear to form a subtly different aesthetic from the coming together of two sub-cultures.

nowhere_aw17_007

nowhere_aw17_006

Hoodies, shirts and jumpers were layered under coats and weatherproof jackets. One key piece mimicked the same expressionist brush strokes found in the hanging prints around the room.

Textures were used to create contrasts between pieces. Checks, stripes and weatherproof materials sat against jersey, marled knit and frayed edges.

nowhere_aw17_0012

Altogether the collection cohesively brought together a mix of influences in art, music and culture. For a brand that's only four years old, Tourne de Transmission are delivering their message, loud and clear.

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_50

Iconic London showspace, Brewer Street Car Park, was the venue of choice for Emilio De La Morena's SS17 catwalk show. For a brand with fans as famous as Kate Moss and the super stylish Olivia Palermo, the expectations were set very high.

From the outset, a vivid sunset beach theme was present in the colour palette. Rich yellow, hot pink, and electric blue dominated the catwalk - Morena is not a label for the timid. These vibrant hues were balanced with accents in soft pastel trim and footwear.

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_29

If the bold colour was not enough, fabrics called out for attention in shiny silk satin and ruffled organza. A play between volume and fit was experimented with throughout. Puffy sleeves, peplums and frills were worn with cinched waists, tapered trousers and form-fitting dresses.

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_6

Expert fabric manipulation is a fine nod to Morena's background in sculpture. He has a great eye for form and fit, skilfully balancing out the two. To contrast the voluminous silhouettes, there are delicate slip dresses overlayed with chic lace. This in turn is contrasted once again with outfits made from bundles of netting, gathered in at the waist.

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_38

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_47

The Morena woman is said to be vibrant, strong and modern as well as elegant and chic. All of these components are present in his SS17 collection. To harmonise the striking aesthetic, there is an element of femininity in the exposed shoulders seen throughout. Whether one-shoulder, cut-outs, or bardot, the shoulders are clearly a focal point for the collection.

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_21

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_64

A few designs in subtle monochrome bring an elegant aspect to the mix. The fabric has a subtle polka-dot pattern and looks impeccable on a pair of white wide-leg trousers. In black, it is used for a jacket with billowing sleeves, reminiscent of a matador's bolero - perhaps influenced by Morena's Spanish roots.

It is this mix between Spanish artisanship and London's blended style that makes for a cutting-edge label, constantly striving towards innovation.

wjlondon_emiliodelamorena_3

Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer

Images: Mel Williams | Fashion Week Photography | @mvw_photographer


London Collections: Men
 is back and, although we say it every single season, we promise you that this is set to be the best one yet.  LCM has now truly found itself, escaping its newcomer status and  cementing its credibility at long last, far away from the shadow of womens week. It’s hard to believe that all there was to showcase this incredible menswear talent was one day, parking clumsily on the end of London Fashion Week when most of the media had already left the cobbles in favour of a Milan climate.

 

This time we’re focusing on SS15, already looking far beyond what the boys have on their back right now to what they’re be hankering after come next year. This forecast is truly phenomenal and dynamic, as are the  myriad of internationally renowned and emerging designers that showcase their collections at this time. Raising the profile of menswear globally and positioning the event confidently alongside London Fashion Week, is it any wonder we’ve got so many new faces heading up the WJ team from tomorrow?

 

Look out for catwalk, event and streestyle from the following talent:

Rosemary Pitts
Alannah Francis
Andrea McCaul
Sopida Rodsom
Amie Caswell
Evie Parazite
Zoe Lamb
Carly Florentine
Katherine Thompson
Chibudem N
Frederick Olafsson
Clarissa Waldron

 

This season highlights include shows from classic tailors Ede and Ravenscroft through to Duchamp Oliver Spencer, Richard Nicoll and YMC alongside increasingly popular displays from Astrid Anderssen and Nasir Mazhar. The WJ team will be delivering live show reports plus a mix of opinion pieces, streetstyle and videos during and after the main event.

Although it all kick starts tomorrow morning, our first stop is the official BFC x Superdry event this evening which is sure to get things started in the right way.

 

Keep an eye on our Fashion Week section from Sunday for all the coverage and follow @whosjacklondon for minute by minute updates.

 

 

Camilla Hunt | Fashion Week Editor | @littlemyth | Insta: camillamcleanhunt