Tag: Berthold

The Berthold catwalk show at 180 The Strand is a collection made up of predominantly black menswear and womenswear. That’s why when the primary colours yellow, red and blue start to make an appearance, the impact is all the more striking. They crop up subtly in the details before they dominate the pieces from head-to-toe, as if they have completely engulfed the previous darkness and left in its place rays of sunshine.

The symbolism originates from a darker subject matter altogether. Research for the collection involved gathering photographs of child soldiers in Sierra Leone, Uganda, Liberia and Nigeria.

In one of the photographs, a group of young boys wear shorts with oversized pockets and belts that dwarf their frames. Yet still, they pose confidently, as though they are men – faking it until they make it, but betrayed by their ill-fitting clothes and youthful faces.

For Spring/Summer 2018, Berthold recreates these contrasts and documents the life-defining transition from boy to man. Enlarged sleeves are left loose to hang, extending past the models’ fingertips. Funnel necks are paired with cropped tunics and wrap front trousers are billowy rather than fitted.

Technical fabric and cloth, cottons and summer wools ensure you’ll stay cool in the heat rather than absorb it in all of those dark layers. Blankets (picnic, anyone?) are draped over cross-body bags. The bags – whether they’re oversized with several pockets or small and sit across the waist – make it easy to dip your toe into colour if you’re not willing to take the plunge just yet.

The colours allude to the optimism and brightness of youth. For the female models, sharp, geometric eye makeup created by Maria Comparetto is worn in the same primary colour palette.

The abstract graphic print reimagines shapes from traditional costumes. Influence is derived from the theatricality and majesty of the Dinka tribe in South Sudan, the Bashada people of Ethopia and the Ndebele and the Khoisan people of Southern Africa.

Now, we too, can join a tribe of our own – the Berthold tribe.

Austrian-born Raimund Berthold is the man behind the brand, which was established in 2009. He is now based in London and received his master’s from Central Saint Martins in 2005.

Words: Laura Rutkowski | Fashion Week Press | @Laura_Rutkowski

Images: Berthold

The concrete depths of 180 The Strand were the location for Berthold’s LCM SS17 presentation; its industrial vibe the perfect backdrop for the art installation-esque scene that greeted us as we rounded a corner and found ourselves face to face with a line of unmoving models.

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A few moments later and the models began marching, one by one, through the lightly-swaying draped fabric fixtures. Known for his exploration of volume and movement, designer Raimund Berthold once again has given us a collection of billowing silhouettes, but this time with sleeker, more disciplined lines. As ever, his thought process was inspired by a single item; this season it was the French army cavalry coat and its use of its huge proportions to create sharp structures.

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Outerwear was pulled into shape by tailored necklines and asymmetric closures, creating pleats and figure-fitting form. Loose, wide-legged trousers were kept in check by long separates, generating a completely straight line down the body. Here and there, flowing trails and contrasting blocks of fabric had been added to the garments, breaking this more rigid form to create movement and texture.

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Colours were mostly subdued, favouring black, grey and cream. A flash of red broke through the collection, nodding to Anish Kapoor’s 2010 installation at the Guggenheim, Ascension (Red), which was another aspect of Berthold’s inspirational moodboards that has made its way into the clothes.

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Accessories were kept to a minimum – simple, flat sandals were the single shoe choice, suiting both formal and casual looks alike. Bags were dotted here and there, each one formed of a trio of rectangular clutches, dangling from the models’ hands to generate three dimensional angles.

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Once again, Bethold has created a line of functional elegance, bringing together his intricate ideas to generate a new and appealing silhouette for the SS17 man. His sleek and precise garments form a collection where every piece has a part to play, leaving nothing superfluous or unnecessary.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Zac Mahrouche | Fashion Week Photographer | @zacmahrouche

 

‘Bold clothes for men led by inventive design and fit – not by fashion’, is the quote that sums up every Berthold’s collection. An Austrian-born designer based in London, Berthold creates pieces distinguished by having a utilitarian sense of colour and shape, a theme he has stuck with for his AW16 range.

Berthold describes the pieces as evoking ‘the tension between covering and smothering’ giving this collection the title ‘Drowning’ - because that is all you really want from your A/W clothing, to be drowned in comfort!

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The main focus with this collection was the exploration of volume and shape - the silhouette being curved in supple rubber, nubby shearling and coated cotton jersey fabrics. All designed to ‘cover and protect’ - macs, longline jackets, oversized coats and culottes all complementing the theme, with designs showing us a welcomed alternative to the hipster trend men have been following for multiple seasons.

The inspiration for this collection as alway, was utilitarian and in particular the uniforms worn by soldiers in World War II. Also for AW16 life jackets influenced the designs - the reason behind that pop of mustard yellow in a sea of black perhaps. The colour palette being extremely simplistic yet bold.

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Berthold has therefore succeeded in showing “how clothing can encase the body in an uncompleted, free way”, a contradiction shown perfectly as you encounter each and every piece.

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam

Images: Eloise | Fashion Week Photograher | @eloisepeachey