Eudon Choi’s SS18 collection might have been showcased in an intimate studio space at The Store, but the designers’ overseas inspirations succeeded in imagining that modernist French Villa from which he drew his inspiration.
Inspired by Eileen Gray’s coastal retreat, Choi’s architectural influences were marked by the strong emphasis he placed on structure; the contrast of clean necklines with asymmetric frills and bishop sleeves giving classic masculine tailoring a feminine edge.
The show kicked off to a steady beat in monochrome. Straight-cut tailoring and longline shift dresses, lifted by a splash of colour-blocking from the accessories: vibrant shoes or stylised cylinder bags hung in military fashion.
Coastal influences came into play with a slight change in the colour scheme, as black-on-white took a turn for sea-breeze blues and varying shades of white. Nautical stripes in laid-back cotton, giving refined air to relaxed fit of the designs – that French-girl styling, both acutely tomboy and effortlessly feminine.
No-fuss necklines, featured a distinct lack of collars in favour of a clean, minimalist look, emphasised by the wash of pale blues and whites.
This stripped back approach was complimented by the au-natural hair and make-up, allowing the eye to focus completely on the shape and structure of the designs. The only abstract allusion to the structural theme, that jagged eyeliner, elongated straight out toward the temple.
Lightweight cotton jackets prevail into next season, with tailoring becoming more casual and our suits becoming far less work, and far more play.