Tag: aw19

First comes love, then comes marriage -  then comes baby in a baby carriage. Old nursery school rhyme, or a foreshadowing of the natural progression of Ryan Lo’s most recent collections? As we return to London Fashion Week for another season, what better way to open proceedings than with this WJ London favourite and his fantastical interpretation of romance, tradition and the even the British monarchy - whether in a past century, or the next.

After delivering a memorable proposal for SS19 (whereby Lo invited us to observe a romantic tale that culminated in a princely “I do”), this season’s autumn/winter offering saw the story pick up at its next chapter: a right royal birth. There definitely felt like there was an element of cosmic timing at play, what with the media’s current thirst for information on the next addition to the British monarchy, but Ryan’s opening pram push was the stuff of a dystopian fairy tale. No blue for a boy, pink for a girl here: just lashings of mourning black, British pomp and traditional Victoriana details.

Across his catalogue of work, the explosive frenzy and candy pink colour of Kawaii culture often juxtaposes the dark and glamorous, whilst his fondness for childhood motifs jars with his creative vision for the future. That’s what’s so exciting about Lo: his duality. Hailing from Hong Kong but London-based by desire, Lo playfully dances between curious contrasts and opposites to create his own twisted fantasy world. It was a far cry from Lo’s usual hyper-feminine frills and frothiness, but this dichotomy was still at the epicentre of the entire collection, with these different locations playing a key part.

Despite a stiff-upper-lip entrance of the new royal parents and a more gothic tone to the collection, there was plenty of Lo’s cute and whimsy to satisfy his diehard fans. Pink tulle featured, accessorised with Royal Guard bearskin hats, reimagined in bubblegum pink, feathers and fluff by none other than Phillip Jones. Corset lace front dresses in virginal white were befitting of a princess, whilst quilted coat dresses, brocade coordinates and ruffled collars were undoubtedly Mother of Bride worthy in some alternative world.

Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegalouise

Mimpikita is a designer label founded by three inspirational females, who all come from different backgrounds. Their work celebrates the diversity of women, as they come together to bring unique styles and ideas that are motivated by all their different cultures. And their AW19 runway certainly encompassed all of these qualities.

It was no doubt an incredibly uplifting show to watch, as models walked down the runway to Whitney Houston’s 'How Will I Know' and 'I Want To Dance With Somebody', in designs that were vibrant, fun and cheerful. The pieces were hyper feminine, with floaty dresses, pastel colours, clashing prints and turtleneck tees filling out the runway.

The looks embodied a nostalgic, summery feel, using the popular layering trend to make these sunny pieces Autumn/Winter appropriate. There was a great sense of balancing beauty with comfort in these pieces, as the dresses and skirts dropped loosely and freely, donning less fitted tailoring whilst staying true to the female form.

The recurring abstract floral print became a theme throughout the show, enhancing the femininity of the soft silhouetted designs. Plaid prints were often paired up with these florals, as the clashing of patterns worked heavily in favour of many of these looks.

The use of turtlenecks was smart, operating both to cover up flesh for a more conservative attire and to turn a summer dress into something more suitable for the colder seasons. They heightened every look, particularly in the final piece that hit the runway. A stunning peach gown with charming embroidered flowers and a pink-mesh underlayer was paired up with a navy turtleneck, and it was by far the star of the show.

The uniqueness of the show came from the creation of designs being aimed towards women of all cultures, backgrounds and religions. It felt fresh, current and heartfelt; every look would guarantee to make you smile and you were made to feel welcome, inspired and hopeful. Mimpikita is definitely a designer to keep on your radar.

 

Words:  Magda Kaczmarska | Fashion Week Press | @_magda__