A catwalk held in Freemasons’ Hall, Junne’s AW19 collection showcased just what the brand has always stood for – designs for women with an individual and bold taste for fashion.
Starting the show with a pop, orange silhouettes made their way onto the runway with fun illustrations and frayed detailing setting the tone for the entire show.
A colour palette of bright orange and green mixed with pastel purples and versatile navy shades, this collection had something for everyone. Featured within the knitwear was a shimmery fabric similar to that of a mermaid (yes this was my first thought!) that really made a statement. One of my favourite bits of detailing had to be the colourful circular cut outs featured throughout the knitted jumpers, coats and hats – adding to the playful nature of this collection.
Yup you read that right I mentioned hats, but that wasn’t the only accessory that featured with scarfs, oversized jewellery, sunglasses, belts and handbags all seen in this collection alongside the outfits - showing you the true potential of each design and how it could be incorporated into any wardrobe.
Junne began its journey in 2015, and every season blends extravagance & elegance to make the perfect combination of the two. It is a name you know will make you stand out from the crowd, while delivering high quality & absolute comfort at the same time!
The Ones to Watch show is always a treat! Hosted by Fashion Scout in Freemasons Hall, it is when the four winners of The Ones to Watch award for London Fashion Week AW19 showcase their winning collections – 1x1 Studio, Aurélie Fontan, Bowen Hu and Shie Lyu.
The panel for this prestigious award includes names such as Martyn Roberts – Fashion Scout’s Founder and Director, Costanze Lombardi – Next Gen Buyer at Browns, Kendal Robbins – Senior Programme Manager at British Council, Lizzy Bowring – Catwalk Director at WGSN and Scarlett Conlon – Deputy Fashion Editor at The Guardian. Gathering in November 2018 to make their selections, you can be assured they know what they are talking about.
A luxury menswear brand established in 2017, 1x1 Studio creates playful 3D textures in knitwear, focusing on craftmanship and creative knitting techniques. The label is currently working with Wei Yao Lin, who has an innate sensibility of materials and focuses on the visuals and silhouettes in the design.
Founded and lead by Taiwan born, London based Yi-Ling Kuo, a London College of Fashion graduate, 1x1 uses recycled materials and specialist yarn as well as their crafted knitting techniques in the hope of raising awareness of undiscovered territories. Priding themselves on rethinking strategies to reduce waste while designing and producing.
This AW19 collection looks back at the state-of-the-art technology from present to the 80s combined with the legend of Icarus to explain the relationship between human and technology. Not sure how they connect? Well, I’ll tell you! The idea of “don’t fly too close to the sun” from the story of Icarus, corresponds with the human attitude towards science and technology in real life situations. No matter if its now or in the 80s, people are always being reminded to not rely too much on the convenience brought by technology in daily life.
Aurélie Fontan is a Paris born, London based designer who launched her label in 2018. A sustainable fashion designer who focuses on bio-design and the circular economy. Fontan’s work represents the “techno-craft”concept, where eco-friendly luxury womenswear is produced from the latest technology and unconventional techniques.
Graduating from the Edinburgh College of Art, Fontan went on to have 6 nominations at Graduate Fashion Week, including three main awards in Womenswear, Sustainable and Ethical Catwalk Textiles and getting an additional award for the Micheal Kors Accessory Design Competition. The collection was engineered in a science lab with the help of grown yeast and bacteria, 100% biodegradable Kombucha - which she grew herself!
This AW19 collection stands as a utopia for fashion of the future. Bringing in her passion for sustainability into the core, to create ethical and luxury clothing. Including a bio-designed dress made from bacteria and recycled material — linked together not through sewing but re-usable products that can be easily recycled!
Bowen Hu is a New York based designer strongly influenced by her understanding of personality and psychology. Her collections are unisex with an innovative approach to texture, colour and silhouettes — with her ideas of design tending to psychologically or physically support the wearer and environment, and its interaction with the garment itself.
Her AW19 collection ‘Lucid Dream’ is inspired by the world of the subconscious mind and brainwave patterns. For each design a dream analysis was taken, meaning each one represents the story of a personal dream. How beautiful is that?
Hu is from China and studied at both Central Saint Martens and Parsons in New York. Her work has been seen in Vogue Italia, Paper Magazine, Trend Prive, Document Journal and more!
Shie Lyu was born in China and has lived in Sydney, Tokyo, New York and London which has all inspired her work, just as much as her 12 years travelling around the world. With a background in finance and accounting, she has a passion for meticulous construction and sculptural silhouettes— reminding her of the financial charts and mathematical models.
In this collection Lyn plays the mathematician, using ‘formulas’ and ‘tools’ to create a new modern and romantic couture collection. Asking herself ‘what can a mathematician innovate in fashion?’ Using this to inspire her whole collection.
Graduating from Parsons in New York, her graduate collection went on to showcase a NYFW and her collections have been featured in publications like Vogue Runway.
Held in the Freemasons' Hall on Sunday early afternoon, A-Jane was a London Fashion Week show that got everyone talking. The models walked in one by one, moving around the stage posing for the big crowd of photographers as they did - the room was packed out and full of energy.
A-Jane for this collection focused on Neue Musik (new music), which is intended to create artistic inspiration and optimism, while challenging the traditional composition structure. With this in mind, A-Jane’s AW19 range broke design boundaries by beginning her collection with no lines, no paper and no preconceptions. The Neue Musik movement provides endless inspiration to designer Alice Jane and has allowed her ideas to flow freely and not ‘follow key’ - no pun intended!
Continuing this inspiration from creation to presentation, each model used various instruments, including (but not limited to) spoons, sand paper and glass chimes, to create clashing sounds and a feeling of chaos – something mirrored throughout each piece in this collection.
Emphasising the philosophy behind the Neue Musik movement – Alice is leading the way by not allowing her creativity to be restricted with strict lines, shapes or structures, instead opting for flowing silhouettes of waves and curves, for a sense of freedom.
Sticking with a primary colour palette, this collection is full of staples – from the oversized printed midi skirts and dresses to the high neck green jumpers and blue ruffled inserts, so you’ll fall for new shapes in the colours you know and love.
Markus Lupfer’s AW19 collection looks pretty familiar; the leopard print, the neon, the midi skirts, the faux fur…he has definitely taken inspiration from the trends we’re seeing everywhere right now. So, our guesses are that leopard print is going nowhere anytime soon, and judging by this line, we aren’t complaining.
Markus Lufper is usually known for his pretty dresses, classic shapes and fine attention to detail in his patterns and embellishments, and though these characteristics are seen throughout the collection, there is definitely a visible change from his usual style. His designs have evolved into something a little more minimal, but in a punchy, exciting way.
Faux fur trapper hats are a consistent accessory worn by the models, and bold details included oversized faux fur gloves and bags, chunky knit jumpers worn as scarves, embroidered midi skirts and Salomon shoes worn throughout. There is definitely an emphasis on style embracing comfort, with classic pieces of clothing such as the trench coat being turned into something unique yet easily wearable.
There is nothing outrageous or too extravagant about this line; it feels humble, and a lot more accessible to the everyday woman. Its simplicity has worked well in the designer’s favour, and rather than being showcased as a piece of art, you look upon the clothing with the feeling of ‘yes, I’d wear that.’
Every look embodied something classic. Whether it was a restructured duffle coat with a faux fur hood, a pleated midi skirt with a matching jacket or a beautifully embellished black skirt with a cropped leopard print over layer, each look took a current trend and elevated it.
As you walked around the show, you felt immediately comfortable, and it was a collection that you could relate to easily. The words: ‘new considered casual attitude for the modern woman’ was written in the leaflet, and that description couldn’t have been more accurate. We’re enjoying this new side to Markus Lupfer, and we're excited to see more.
When you think of London Fashion Week, it’s hard not to let your mind wander to the big hitters: Vivienne Westwood, Burberry, Mary Katrantzou, Christopher Kane and the like. But if your sole focus lies on those with maximum exposure and notoriety, then you could be missing out of a whole world of emerging talent that London is globally known for. Whilst Victoria Beckham’s trousers may dictate the trends for the coming year, we in London march to the beat of our own drum by championing up-and-coming designers who harness a cult following that’s all their own.
From avant-garde Matty Bovan and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy to the cool-girl’s new squeeze, Ashley Williams, there’s been a number of smaller designer brands that are generating even more buzz – and definitely more excitement – than the household names. And this season sees another new name vying to make its mark: Katie Ann McGuigan. Rising through the ranks from Merit Award winner to main schedule showcase in the click of a finger, the Irish native and Westminster graduate is the word of everybody’s lips this season.
Known for her bold and decisive blend of sporting details, vibrant palettes and all-out prettiness, her aesthetic is distinctive, fresh and very now – and this season was no different. For this AW19 collection her signature colour-soaked knitwear took centre stage in tones of mustard, lilac and teal, accentuated by swathes of clashing check prints and punchy tie dye. Nothing felt one dimensions as fabrics juxtaposed and layered atop one another, creating unexpected and chaotic combinations that somehow felt carefully considered and like a natural fit.
Sporting elements such as supersized puffer coats and gilets, along with utility details spotted on a standout khaki boilersuit, added an unexpected streetwear edge. But nothing seemed more unlikely than the addition of tulle skirts and sleeves layered over the top of it. Where bigger names play to their strengths and deliver consistency, younger players like McGuigan are taking risks and finding their groove, meaning even they might not know what comes next. All we know if that we’re excited to find out next season.