Tag: aw19

The Cassey Gan AW19 show took place in the Freemason Hall and was capturing from the get go. Surrounding the collection was upbeat music, bright colours and of course, bowls of fruits & vegetables — what else?

Named Pixelated, Gan drew inspiration from Tim Braden - dissolving and reassembling her world for this AW19 show.

 

Known for her loose fitting clothing silhouettes, original prints and lightweight texture, this season for the first time she has experiments with thicker fabrics. Using innovative shapes and heavy layering, this collection combines comfort and style, making it as modern as it is elegant.

A colour palette of blues, olives, maroons and mustard, the clashing of the prints really do mix the timeless with the trendy effortlessly throughout this range.

Influenced also by the impossible pace of the fashion industry and the inevitable changes rooted in the digital age, Gan harnesses her frustrations at the speed which designers now work — this collection, Pixelated, comments on the love-hate paradox Gan sees in contemporary fashion.

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Fashion Scout 

Jolin Wu returned to London Fashion Week after ten years for her AW19 show. Inspired by the iconic 1982 sci-fi film Blade Runner, Wu tells Fashion Scout, “My main inspiration is the film blade runner — the old one, the vintage one! That’s my biggest inspiration. That film affected me a lot. Everything – the film, the imagery, the dialogue, the music – everything. This is the 10th year of my business, and I wanted to do a collection that felt special. The film is so special for me, so it seemed right. The collection is about the future – how I imagine the future will be.”

You can see this inspiration throughout the collection, androgynous designs walking down the catwalk — delicate garments with a retro sportswear twist. 

Always experimenting with vivid colour, Wu used a mixture of red, silver, electric indigo, space blue, beige with neon green and yellow, as well as touches of pastel pink and drawstring handbags in purple and brown. It didn’t end there, with the unique make-up on each model making a true statement. Models had their hair loosely pulled back in low ponytails or wind-blown fringes, adding to the effortless feel of the designs.

A combination of textures, from velvet to tweed, the collection includes slip dresses, oversized coats, high neck tops and gloves that mixes elegance with an edgy feel.

Establishing her own brand in 2008, Wu focuses on womenswear (with a little menswear for the first time ever this season), and has been inspired by Masion Margiela throughout her career — you can’t go far wrong with that!

 

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Fashion Scout 

I started my AW19 season for London Fashion Week at the Alice Archer show. Walking in to the sound of gentle, relaxing music playing in the background, models were being escorting in and out setting the scene for an extremely elegant show.

The Alice Archer AW19 collection was inspired by the early 16th century artist Lucas Cranah and his use of rich colours and sumptuous proportions of his subjects. Especially taken by the painting ‘Cupid Complaining to Venus’, she used her love of it throughout each design, working it into the prints and embroidery seen throughout the range.

Focusing on the Cranach’s depiction of apples, Archer developed a technique of embroidering in white thread overlaid with her oil paintings of apples from trees in Somerset - giving the designs a painterly feel. Also inspired by medieval woodcuts of snowball and hawthorn trees the embroidered pieces in this collection have a real connection to nature, with the addition of hand embellished pearls making them three-dimensional, bringing it all to life.

From fitted bodice dresses and coats to two piece suits featuring flared trousers this collection is the epitome of modern luxury. Florals on velvet and corduroy fabrics gives each piece a unique touch. What stood out the most for me was details on the sleeves - capes and ruffles gave a slight edge to the sophisticated nature of the show.

Alice Archer graduated from RCA in 2013, she moved to Antwerp to work as an embroidery designer for Dries van Noten. She has since worked frequently with Tracey Emin, producing her hand embroidered art work. So, you can see she’s had a passion for embroidery throughout her career, making this collection all the more specialist!

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Fashion Scout 

Runways? Pfft.

For Xu Zhi’s AW19 collection, the audience was invited into his story through the medium of dance. Now, don’t get too excited – this wasn’t a mass Hokey Cokey in the name of fashion, but a story that unfolded through the movement of bodies and brief encounters.

Setting the scene, Xu Zhi created a story of a café where strangers come and go, experiencing a fleeting – and sometimes literal – dance with another. They meet and interact for only a short moment before moving on: their stories short and wholly captivating, accentuated by the haunting sounds of the accompanying pianist. What unites these strangers we’ll never know – except, of course, for their Xu Zhi garms. Duh.

Whether the story resonated with the viewer or not, it was fairly impossible not to immerse yourself in the design. As is the shift we are seeing across the board, the collection expanded to include menswear alongside the women’s, blurring gender and fabric lines to create a fluid and interpretative collection. As a brand built on a feminine image, it's certainly an interesting move - but a sensible one too as Zhi gears up for a new partnership with Chinese online giant, JD.com. From the jarring asymmetric hems, column fits and awkward lengths to the androgynous blouses and boxy-shoulder tailoring, boundaries were suspended and the models were one. From heavy faux fur and mesh to low-brim headwear, there was a sense of hiding the figure beneath. The intention? Anonymity, allowing the protagonists in this particular tale to blur in and out of focus and the moment, existing only momentarily in Zhi’s distorted reality.

Yet, out of nowhere, a vision in hot pink appeared with a fringed dress and hoop-handled bucket bag to die for. Anonymous? Unlikely in that get up, but it's the kind of femininity Xu Zhi is known for. This was the look that turned brief cafe encounters into lingering moments; first glances into double takes. We’ll have what she ordered.

 

Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Images: Tasmin Dacres | Fashion Week Photographer | @tasm0n_d

Now it's time to talk about the unofficial catwalk show – London Fashion Week Street Style. Season after season those who visit the runways never disappoint in dressing to impress. We’ve snapped just a few of our favourites from LFW AW19, so you can get some inspiration on what to be wearing this season – before you get started on the next.

The sun was somewhat shining this season, however the cold chill lingered – meaning there was a mix of summer shades with weather appropriate silhouettes. From metallic jackets and transparent rain jackets to sunglasses and palm tree print blazers, this edit has everything you could ask for.

Some of the favourites we spotted had to be the oversized jewellery and retro inspired glasses – it really is the little accessories that complete an outfit. Keep scrolling for more, you’re welcome!

@stylingbyanh
@emmalightbrown
@lauren_hallworth
@edielibertyrose

@alannanicolex

Words: Andrea McCaul| Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Eloise Peachey |Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeacheyphoto