London streets were scorching on Saturday afternoon as we headed into the welcome cool darkness of the BFC presentation space. Looming ahead of us in the blackness were softly lit layers of sand-coloured nylon, forming a sun baked desert for the reveal of Qasimi's SS18 men's collection.

Beyond the material, shadows moved towards us, projecting silhouettes of loose clothing into the room, before the models stepped out into the light and formed groups staring out into the audience.

Entitled Free Fall, the collection was the perfect juxtaposition between intricate attention to detail and simplicity. Layers of classic shapes made up a casual uniform, each one made unique by subtle handcrafted features mixed with modern fabric technology. Drawstring pockets gave ruffled movement to an overcoat; clever seams created soft ruching and zips added another dimension to the designs.

Colours and textures gave an interesting depth to the collection, drawing the audience in to it as the groups of models swapped round in front of us. Waffle sat underneath silky nylon while coated canvas contrasted with dense piqué. The palette reflected the nomadic Bedouin tribes of the Middle East that inspired the collection – the sunburnt siennas and cacti khaki greens speak of their desert environment. Nuanced flashes of colour injected a modern feel into the designs, with minty greens and blushing pinks appearing in coats and shirts, accompanied by deep red and blue pinstripes.

Accessories were practical yet with a stylishly simplistic edge – effortlessly cool woven duffels with leather detailing were slung over models backs and carried on arms, finished off by sandals in neutral shades.

Qasimi's SS18 man is far more than what he seems on the surface; oh-so-practical and comfortable layers reveal an acute attention to detail and an unexpected modernity whilst also nodding to tradition. His look appears casual, thrown on to face whatever landscape he may encounter, but is in fact carefully curated piece by piece to create a complete look that encapsulates many different facets of his personality.

Words: Katharine Bennett | Fashion Week Press | @misskatebennett

Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegan.photography