Stood with attitude - hoods up - on top of a series of speakers, the models at Michiko Koshino's LFW Men's presentation look fitting considering the pouring rain outside. With hands in pockets, crossed arms and tattoos on show, this lot are not to be messed with.
Instantly recognisable as the brand's signature are the range of blow-up jackets that can be worn both deflated or puffed up. This brilliant experimental streak is what launched Koshino's career in the 1990s as one of the first Japanese designers to break into Europe. Her new way of thinking was a refreshing contradiction to the designs of the time.
For AW17, monochrome looks are styled in block colour. But bright piping in white and red runs around the edges of the relaxed silhouettes, breaking the outfits into separate pieces.
Noticing the clever construction, it is clear that Koshino has a deep understanding of form - she is a master pattern cutter by trade. Longline jackets can be pulled in at the hip with a drawstring, seams can be undone with zips, and arms can come through sides instead of armholes. This clothing is clearly meant to encourage the wearer's imagination.
Koshino reminds us once again what it means to be innovative in fashion. It's no wonder that stars as big as Stella McCartney, Moby and David Bowie call her a favourite.