Katie Eary took cultural roots that are usually left in shadows by the guidebooks of London and brought them into the spotlights of 180 Strand's Show Space for LFWM. The peep shows, the ‘model upstairs’ unmarked doors and the adult cinemas that litter the streets of Soho all turned muses for Eary’s AW17 collection.
As the lights came up and Dusty Springfield purred ’The look of love is in your eye’, the waiting crowds were reminded that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that once, sex wasn’t such a dirty word. We were reminded of a time when Soho was Saucy not seedy and pornography was naughty not nasty.
Eary clearly located these Halcyon days in the 70s with staples such as silk pyjamas, smoking jackets, sheepskin, kaleidoscope prints and plum/tarry tobacco hues.
Revealing cuts and figure hugging silhouettes were in evidence straight from the off as Daisy Lowe opened the show. Her plum silk dress, cut high and with a plunging neckline enhanced her best playfully seductive strut. She was followed by belted silk gowns, and smoking jackets with open chests accessorised with Teddy Bears. Looks which recalled the glory years of Playboy.
A wall of balloons with patterns reminiscent of eyes or breasts were mirrored in the bold kaleidoscopic patterns but the warm palette, animal prints and rich wool and sheepskin textures softened the statement sexuality.
2 piece pyjama sets and ‘belly-cut’ tees emblazoned with lizards further added to the sense of playful innocence and you got a sneaking suspicion that the models might actually be enjoying themselves. As Eary emerged beaming to close the show in a white t-shirt garnished with black nipple tassels and ran to hug somebody in the crowd, I found myself also smiling with the fun of it all as everybody fixed their best moody pouts for the waiting photographers outside the venue, it was nice to see a few smiles taken back out into the London morning.
Words: Mitchell Cooper | Fashion Week Press | @catsandjackets
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot