The Berthold presentation was held in a dark room and made up of a rotation of models walking down the catwalk, followed by five minutes of them standing in formation showcasing the collection.

The studio walls were covered by photographs of scratches, scars and stitches, whilst the floor of the catwalk was scattered with bottles creating the runway for the models, complementing the inspiration for this collection, named ‘Asylum’.

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The Berthold AW17 collection explores the rhythm of restriction. Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspired a larger, relaxed silhouette for both the tunics and winter coats. Some of the models emerged with thick, rough bandages wrapped around their heads, masking identities. Taut body gloves were worn over the wide leg trousers and the sportif jackets had elongated, exaggerated sleeves. Both the elbows on the bombers and skinny trousers were split open, creating a coherent look throughout.

The colour palette was a simple one, head to toe black, white and burgundy were the only three shades used. Fuzzy and crisped textures were taken from torn, soft leather and papers which created an aged finished to the clothing. Felted wools and pitted technical fabrics were paired with fluffy mohair and easy cotton suiting, creating a consistent feel throughout the collection, pulling the chosen three hues together effortlessly.

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Raimund Berthold is well known for his utilitarian use of colours and silhouettes free from defined shapes, this collection most certainly followed that theme.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Amie Charlot | Fashion Week Photographer | @amiecharlot