The Ones to Watch show is always a treat! Hosted by Fashion Scout in Freemasons Hall, it is when the four winners of The Ones to Watch award for London Fashion Week AW19 showcase their winning collections – 1x1 Studio, Aurélie Fontan, Bowen Hu and Shie Lyu.

The panel for this prestigious award includes names such as Martyn Roberts – Fashion Scout’s Founder and Director, Costanze Lombardi – Next Gen Buyer at Browns, Kendal Robbins – Senior Programme Manager at British Council, Lizzy Bowring – Catwalk Director at WGSN and Scarlett Conlon – Deputy Fashion Editor at The Guardian. Gathering in November 2018 to make their selections, you can be assured they know what they are talking about.

 

1x1 Studio

A luxury menswear brand established in 2017, 1x1 Studio creates playful 3D textures in knitwear, focusing on craftmanship and creative knitting techniques. The label is currently working with Wei Yao Lin, who has an innate sensibility of materials and focuses on the visuals and silhouettes in the design.

Founded and lead by Taiwan born, London based Yi-Ling Kuo, a London College of Fashion graduate, 1x1 uses recycled materials and specialist yarn as well as their crafted knitting techniques in the hope of raising awareness of undiscovered territories. Priding themselves on rethinking strategies to reduce waste while designing and producing.

This AW19 collection looks back at the state-of-the-art technology from present to the 80s combined with the legend of Icarus to explain the relationship between human and technology. Not sure how they connect? Well, I’ll tell you! The idea of “don’t fly too close to the sun” from the story of Icarus, corresponds with the human attitude towards science and technology in real life situations. No matter if its now or in the 80s, people are always being reminded to not rely too much on the convenience brought by technology in daily life.

 

Aurélie Fontan

Aurélie Fontan is a Paris born, London based designer who launched her label in 2018. A sustainable fashion designer who focuses on bio-design and the circular economy. Fontan’s work represents the “techno-craft”concept, where eco-friendly luxury womenswear is produced from the latest technology and unconventional techniques.

Graduating from the Edinburgh College of Art, Fontan went on to have 6 nominations at Graduate Fashion Week, including three main awards in Womenswear, Sustainable and Ethical Catwalk Textiles and getting an additional award for the Micheal Kors Accessory Design Competition. The collection was engineered in a science lab with the help of grown yeast and bacteria, 100% biodegradable Kombucha - which she grew herself! 

This AW19 collection stands as a utopia for fashion of the future. Bringing in her passion for sustainability into the core, to create ethical and luxury clothing. Including a bio-designed dress made from bacteria and recycled material — linked together not through sewing but re-usable products that can be easily recycled! 

 

Bowen Hu

Bowen Hu is a New York based designer strongly influenced by her understanding of personality and psychology. Her collections are unisex with an innovative approach to texture, colour and silhouettes — with her ideas of design tending to psychologically or physically support the wearer and environment, and its interaction with the garment itself. 

Her AW19 collection ‘Lucid Dream’ is inspired by the world of the subconscious mind and brainwave patterns. For each design a dream analysis was taken, meaning each one represents the story of a personal dream. How beautiful is that? 

Hu is from China and studied at both Central Saint Martens and Parsons in New York. Her work has been seen in Vogue Italia, Paper Magazine, Trend Prive, Document Journal and more!

Shie Lyu

Shie Lyu was born in China and has lived in Sydney, Tokyo, New York and London which has all inspired her work, just as much as her 12 years travelling around the world. With a background in finance and accounting, she has a passion for meticulous construction and sculptural silhouettes — reminding her of the financial charts and mathematical models. 

In this collection Lyn plays the mathematician, using ‘formulas’ and ‘tools’ to create a new modern and romantic couture collection. Asking herself ‘what can a mathematician innovate in fashion?’ Using this to inspire her whole collection. 

Graduating from Parsons in New York, her graduate collection went on to showcase a NYFW and her collections have been featured in publications like Vogue Runway.

Words: Andrea McCaul | Fashion Week Press | @andreaelizam
Images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegalouise