After making  her debut as part of ‘Ones To Watch’ last season, it seems like it was a natural progression for Yulia Kondranina to be the worthy winner of the SS14 Fashion Scout Merit Award.

Yulia has her very own, recognisable method of garment design, for it is not simply the silhouette that dictates the creation but the fabrication and the experimentation that comes with it. This season, a collection of beautifully coordinated crocheted dresses, almost graphic and geometrical in their design, featuring revealing cut outs and semi-sheer panelling, showcasing her signature aesthetic of intricacy and  penchant for unusual weaving techniques.

Simple and clean, a series of fresh whites take to the runway with tetris inspired sweetheart necklines giving way to low V step edges. Dots are joined and building blocks stacked as textured, paired back Aztecs show a more grown up approach to print with the subtle introduction of muted yellows and navy.  Becoming richer, Kondranina experiments with raspberry tones for a larger than life effect before taking things after hours with classic black combining with reveal and conceal sheer detail.

Her interest in woven textures and prints is paramount as monochrome cross stitch makes its way towards us, reminding me of a reverse pulled wool Easter egg card I made when I was a child. But only way way better. Kondranina's minimal and highly wearable designs look heavy yet effortless,  styled with a simple slip on sandal. There’s something alluring about the effect, especially when thinned and subtly exposing the chest and wait, that acts an alternative to classically revealing mesh,  that provides an air of evening sophistication with a cool edge.


Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Week Press | @littlemyth
Photography: Francesca Cussons | Fashion Week Photographer