We battled through the wind and rain to get to Heohwan Simulation’s show this morning and with the name “Hyper Hyper” it was more than fitting. Kicking off Fashion Scout’s schedule for London Fashion Week Heohwan opened with a confident and enticing choice of navy and white botanical print on an oversized button up jacket and complimenting skirt. The playful Hawaiian influence in the pattern was given an elegant approach as it then covered a sharp tailored dress broken down with subtle leather layering.
When designing Heohwan took inspiration from photographer Thomas Ruff’s double exposure photography and E.P Thomson’s literary text, The Making of English Working Class. Heohwan also looked back to the 1950s in terms of silhouette and 1980s street wear for his acute graphic prints. Interestingly Heohwan trained as a menswear designer at the Royal College of Art before taking a natural transition and starting his womenswear label in 2010.
Fine monochrome stripes were hugely popular for the designer, who used leather panels and inserts in a subtle yet sophisticated way. As the collection progressed leather made a bigger impact with in a black flowing skirt and oversized biker jacket. Embellishment was kept to a minimal but still noticeable as white and silver sequins adorned the latter of the collection. Accessories too were minimal with black and white matching chunky heels and circle sunglasses, think blogger shewearsfashion.com. These simplistic elements only enphasised the clear cut silhouettes and delicate patterns that defined the collection. The use of colour, like everything else was playful and subtle in lime green, sunshine yellow and baby blue, proving already that pastel shades are going to be huge for SS14.
Heohwan brought a modern day aesthetic to the collection by means of a black leather midi skirt with intricate lazer cut edges. Overall the collection was well thought out, beautifully encapsulating his inspirations from the 1950s and 1980s in a way appealing to a modern day women.
Words: Katie Handy-Beith| Fashion Week Press