Upon entering The Swiss Church for Renli Su’s SS16 presentation, the manic buzz of LFW ebbs away as you are drawn through glass doors and into the Church Hall.
The room is bright and airy, lit by the evening light streaming in through windows in its curved ceiling. It is beautifully calm, almost as if time has stopped - and not just for the spectators. Four models are dotted around the room, standing perfectly still, almost an extension of the room itself.
Neutral colours layer over one another, warmed by rich, deep hues. Organic cotton combines with luxurious silk and woven edges, perfectly embodying Mark Rothko’s contrast between drama and simplicity, which was the inspiration behind the Renli’s use of colour and texture.
There is a definitely an air of nightwear glamour to the range, with long silk striped shirts and draped folds of material, cinched at the waist with a belt. Stiffer, high necked jackets in deep colours contrast with the neutral, once more evoking sumptuous elegance.
Speaking of the range, Su says she was inspired by Britain’s golden age; the Victorian era. She wanted to use Victorian sophistication and finesse to create an elegant, independent and modern woman, quoting her design philosophy of Wabi-Sabi - the acceptance of transience which rejects meaningless design in preserving the preciousness of tradition.
Renli Su's vision for SS16 is one of muted grace, providing an understated yet luxurious aesthetic which will almost certainly be a wardrobe staple next year.