Peter Jensen's collections have frequently been based off obscure muses, from unknown cartoon characters to historical figures, but this season's inspiration is a little closer to home, namely stylist Shirley Kurata. Kurata, who you might know from her work styling the likes of Lena Dunham, has been styling Jensen's own collections since 2010. For his SS16 'Shirley' collection, Jensen has looked to the way Kurata uses colour and mixes elements from the 60s with contemporary items, as well as recreating her image through prints and accessories. When Kurata joins the models for a photo opportunity, it's difficult to spot the original.
The combination of Kurata’s thick round glasses with visor clad riding helmets is striking in multiple colour ways and lends a surreal edge to the presentation. The overriding feeling is playful with bright block colours and cutesy prints topped with peter pan collars and glossy red lips. 60s influences are apparent in shift dresses with huge circular pockets, A line skirts and geometric prints that range from a zig-zag knit to bold stripes, scribbled polka dots and everything in between. Sequined socks peek out from relatively sensible black heels, a glamorous addition to a collection that inhabits Kurata’s ‘mod secretary’ category of dress.
A fluffy cream skirt and jacket co-ord features thick black piping, with an accompanying shift dress layered over a monochrome, boldly striped shirt. It’s not all about tailoring though as a sheer frilled blouse and organza dress sit alongside a bright green knit with a bold cactus print – a homage to Kurata’s native LA. It’s an updated take on the 60s mod with injections of glamour, girlishness and an undeniable amount of Shirley. Both designer and muse should be proud.
Images: Celine Castillon | Fashion Week Photographer | @cceline