Pam Hogg’s SS18 show came sooner than we were expecting this year, swapping her usual Friday night slot for one of the first on the schedule. But fear not; her show was still full of her effervescent energy that we’ve come to anticipate from her legendary catwalks.
As we made our way to our seats in the Vestibule of Freemason’s Hall, the catwalk was full of our favourite Pam Hogg regulars, including Jaime Winstone and Nick Cave, meeting and greeting each other and creating the pre-show hubbub that only Pam can inspire. After several attempts to get everyone quietly sitting in their seats, the chatter died down, the lights dimmed and the show began. A wonderfully vintage version of ‘Teddy Bear’s Picnic’ lilted out of the speakers, crackling as though from a gramophone, setting the scene for the models that soon arrived.
Softer than her usual aesthetic, high-necked tulle and lace dresses in pastel and neutral shades opened the show, slowly gliding down the catwalk with a gentle sway as they moved. But she hasn’t suddenly gotten all conservative on us; the designer’s signature daring style soon revealed itself, with soft layered pompoms artfully placed over sheer bodysuits and masks covering faces, wiggling with every step.
The music shifted up a notch and suddenly things made a move towards the post-punk movement that has been a constant influence to Hogg’s design. Colours became bolder and more defined, lines hardened into graphic shapes and materials got a little bit sexier. Eyeshadows and lips, too, moved from subtle sweeps of shade to emblazoned stripes of pure colour.
Alongside primary colours and monochrome, the pastels from the start of the show reappeared, this time as eye-catching yet feminine pleather trench coats and barely-there plunging necklines.
The final duo to appear on the catwalk were a culmination of the exploration of two such different design styles; ruffled tulle and and flattering silhouettes created bright pink and blue outfits, both completed by towering headdresses.
As Pam Hogg, or indeed, Dr Pam Hogg made her way down the catwalk on the arm of Alice Dellal, a name now synonymous with the brand, it was clear that the designer is evolving her oeuvre. The fun, colourful, graphic style that she’s recognised for is still there, but there are added elements of more nuanced femininity that round out the collection.
Pam Hogg might never be for the fashion wall-flower, but small and intriguing changes that she makes each season such as this keep opening her world up to more and more people, and keep us coming back for more. ‘Friday I’m in love’ played her out, and, as ever, it’s Friday of fashion week that we’re in love with our gal Pam.