Look we’re just going to go ahead and say it: Pam Hogg is the one show at London Fashion Week we consistently look forward to every single season. It’s hard to believe that a designer that consistently commands mile-long queues down the road, a literal elbows-at-dawn charge to get in at the doors and a celebrity friend-filled guest list that reads like the rock’n’roll hall of fame has only been part of the official main schedule since SS18. And that doesn’t even take into account Pam’s fierce, unabashed creative strength and identity, which she has honed to a fine art of familiar signature details delivered with a hefty dose of the unexpected.
Venus in Phurr was the name of the game for this London Fashion Week, and that’s exactly what we got: bold, sensual, exaggerated embodiments of female sexuality, trussed up in fur. For AW19 the delectable Dr Hogg brought erotica to the masses that packed out the vestibule of Freemason’s Hall with a provocative collection that played with BDSM attire and culture in all its splendour, yet coupled it with the contrasting notions of submission, dominance and compliance. Leather, whips, chains, studs and PVC fulfilled the expectations of the story in shades of black, red and gold, whilst the titillating reveal and conceal of flesh through mesh bodysuits and the scantily clad form ensures there was a no way to hide behind the policy, ‘No sex please, we’re British’. With Pam’s eternal muse Alice Dellal cracking her whip and tipping her PVC hat, she guaranteed that the audience were given the thrilled they were expecting and no doubt craving. But it was the pieces that deviated from these tropes that left the greatest impression: angelic, virginal whites and frou-frou powder blues in almost Victorian-esque ankle lengths that offered an alternative take on female sexuality that denoted innocence and enjoyment in equal measure.
Venus herself is the embodiment of love and godly femininity, but that doesn’t mean she’s a prude. After all, she was never one for covering up and now that she walks on Earth, she does so with the same appreciation for her body – with just a few furry nipples pasties, landing strips and a cleverly-positioned ‘Venus’ to shield us from becoming too overwhelmed by her beautiful presence.
Away from the chaos and frenzy of the sexually charged, we were treated to some real Pam classics with studded berets and chic buckled separates in punchy candy pink, yellow and khaki, along with a new-season reinterpretation of her famed rainbow bodysuit. It was a little of what we know; a lot of what we didn’t know or could even hope to anticipate – exactly as a Pam Hogg show should be.
Words: Camilla Hunt | Fashion Editor | @camillamcleanhunt
Runway images: Eloise Peachy | Fashion Week Photographer | @eloisepeachyphoto
Backstage images: Tegan Rush | Fashion Week Photographer | @tegalouise