On Friday evening, the On|Off space at the Vinyl Factory was illuminated against the darkening sky. On walking in, it was clear that everyone was ready to party; Charlotte Hathaway was mid-way through a set, drinks were flowing and the room was buzzing as LFW goers wandered through the wildly dressed mannequins which were showcasing the #Tomorrow’s Talent designers.
The On|Off Presents… platform has been sharing its designers to watch for some six years now, presenting us with names that have gone on to become LFW buzzwords in recent years. Named Punk Diversity, this season’s show was a celebration of all things punk, dosing us up with unconventional behaviour and a hell of a lot of attitude.
With a deafening guitar riff from Glaswegian punk band Baby Strange, we were off; Kevin Geddes’ models stomped into the room from behind the jagged mirror backdrop. Covered in the KG initial stamp, the range consisted of slouchy, sportswear-inspired pieces, with hidden openings and textures that added a sensuous feel to the casual aesthetic. Bright orange lifted the khaki and black base, along with pointy patent white boots. Speaking of the collection, Geddes perfectly embodies the modern punk; he explains that it was inspired by working class struggles and concern over the political climate, but also that he wanted to make some clothes that people liked.
A change in song signalled the arrival of Robert Wun’s shaped silhouettes. Each outfit worked as a perfectly constructed whole; an monochrome ombre trousers suit preceded a textured neon yellow jacket/skirt/boot combo, followed by a silvery velvet coat and dress. And the shoes were nothing short of a exceptional; every look was accompanied by a matching version of a curved heel boot which has gone straight the top of our want list.
Finally, it was Jayne Pierson’s turn. In stark contrast to the tailored suits that came before, the first model was naked except for a single layer of black netting and a highly structured, off the shoulder jacket, adorned in graffiti-esque prints. As a former intern for Vivienne Westwood, it was of course no surprise that her designs were the most risqué, showing plenty of skin wrapped in tartan, fishnet and leather. The final person to take to the stage was a mini-model; a young girl dressed from head to foot in a leather tasselled suit, completing the punk attitude perfectly by challenging our traditional ideas of fashion and modelling.
The show finished with a final call of each outfit before the models broke out of the confines of the runway and enjoyed a drink whilst the designers flew out from backstage, greeting their friends and fans. Dazed Digital began a live streamed photoshoot of the collections, screening them onto the walls of the room. As a whole, this show broke all of the LFW conventions we’ve come to expect, not only through the clothes, but also with the presentation itself. From serving beer instead of prosecco to having the models step through the crowds instead of returning down the catwalk, it was wonderfully unusual and entirely entertaining.