Freemasons’ Hall was bursting with talent at the Fashion Scout showcase Ones to Watch. An illustrious panel, including Fashion Scout’s founder and director Martyn Roberts, Ones to Watch’s stylist Rebekah Roy, fashion writer Tony Glencille, and the British Fashion Council’s Kendall Robbins, selected four up-and-coming designers whose names you need to know now. Take note, because they’ll soon be popping up everywhere.
Models walked down the runway looking like futuristic flight attendants in pastel uniforms. Although the designs came in cookie-cutter shapes, the craftsmanship was anything but. Ljubinković is not only a womenswear designer, but she is also an artist, which would explain her impeccable attention to detail. She is based in Serbia and showed her first collection at Belgrade Fashion Week. She stormed London with a cute kitsch army, all of them armed with perfectly preened bubblegum peplum skirts, zigzag sleeves, and peekaboo cutouts.
Sticking to a clean palette of crisp blues and whites, Aida drew upon her Tunisian background and Eastern fashions for her inspiration. Functional sandals and breezy fabrics were designed to beat the heat and look stylish while doing so. Roomy bags and backpacks complemented the minimalistic styles, as did woven conical hats. I thought structure and comfort were mutually exclusive in a garment. Aida managed to combine the two to create a completely cohesive, modern whole in the form of her collection.
Kubisz has taken a well-known and well-loved pattern, the pinstripe, and turned it on its head. She was driven by the corporate world we live in and the way we lust after wealth. Male and female models took to the runway to demonstrate the unisexual nature of the collection. Frayed and fringed clothing items deconstructed the normal image we hold of a professional in professional attire. There was something American Psycho about the looks, in the way that they appeared slightly unraveled, slightly unhinged, like any one of us could become at any given moment. Wear Kubisz’s designs to work (or anywhere really) and it’s a given that you’ll stand out from the masses of other corporate drones. Stick it to the man.
From the oversized septum ring, to the light up trainers, to the models’ icy white locks, Jacobina’s collection was loud and proud. The designer works with textiles in unconventional ways and the result was unmissable. It was hard to know where to look as these sea creatures emerged from the deep, deep depths from where they’d been hiding. Swaddled in hot pink fur and layers of jewel-encrusted protection, they were specimens I wanted to examine, and emulate (perhaps in moderation).