Sudanese designer, Omer Asim, is known for his sculptural style, stemming from his years studying architecture at The Bartlett School of Architecture. His thought-provoking designs also come from his training as a psychoanalyst. It was during this time that he became intrigued by the relationship between the mind and clothing.
He has a passion for craft and experimental style, stating, "I un-design as much as I can to achieve a sense of imperfect beauty, something essentially human." Working with a seam elimination process, Asim strips back the fuss until he's left with a refined aesthetic.
Held inside a narrow showspace at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, London, Asim's AW16 collection was presented in the form of models posing in line; two at front sitting down with the models behind standing on increasingly raised platforms. The space was stark white and well-lit, focusing all attention on the masterfully draped outfits.
The palette was neutral, mostly black and white with accents of muted khaki, grey and midnight blue. The feel was androgynous with black brogue footwear and the additional use of a few male models wearing the womenswear collection. Faces were bare with heavy but natural looking brows and hair was plaited tight into a pixie style.
A draped theme was present with oversized hoods, shawl collars and jackets left to fall open naturally. Necklines and seams were square and angular which provided a strong structure for the more delicate details of pleated panels and sections of fringing.
The real beauty of the collection lay in the more subtle textiles, seen only at close inspection. A pair of laddered-effect black jeans with a plastic coated finish made an impression. Unfinished frayed edges added a tactile aspect to the clothing, lifting the fabric from being too perfect and complying with the labels raw aesthetic.