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Sudanese designer, Omer Asim, is known for his sculptural style, stemming from his years studying architecture at The Bartlett School of Architecture. His thought-provoking designs also come from his training as a psychoanalyst. It was during this time that he became intrigued by the relationship between the mind and clothing.

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He has a passion for craft and experimental style, stating, "I un-design as much as I can to achieve a sense of imperfect beauty, something essentially human." Working with a seam elimination process, Asim strips back the fuss until he's left with a refined aesthetic.

Held inside a narrow showspace at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, London, Asim's AW16 collection was presented in the form of models posing in line; two at front sitting down with the models behind standing on increasingly raised platforms. The space was stark white and well-lit, focusing all attention on the masterfully draped outfits.

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The palette was neutral, mostly black and white with accents of muted khaki, grey and midnight blue. The feel was androgynous with black brogue footwear and the additional use of a few male models wearing the womenswear collection. Faces were bare with heavy but natural looking brows and hair was plaited tight into a pixie style.

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A draped theme was present with oversized hoods, shawl collars and jackets left to fall open naturally. Necklines and seams were square and angular which provided a strong structure for the more delicate details of pleated panels and sections of fringing.

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The real beauty of the collection lay in the more subtle textiles, seen only at close inspection. A pair of laddered-effect black jeans with a plastic coated finish made an impression. Unfinished frayed edges added a tactile aspect to the clothing, lifting the fabric from being too perfect and complying with the labels raw aesthetic.

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Words: Sunna Naseer | Fashion Week Press | @sunna_naseer
Images: Courtesy of designer