Polish born designer Marta Jakubowski proved she was a female force to be reckoned with in her AW19 show, as models were filtered out wearing the likes of power suits, geometric knits and structural, padded coats. They all held an exotic flower in their mouth, symbolising the importance of the female voice and acting as a subtle nod to feminist philosopher Hélène Cixous’s The Laugh of Medusa.
Her pieces were no doubt feminist works of art, and her take on the classic power suit beautifully blurred the lines between the masculine and the feminine. It wasn’t all about the fine, structural tailoring though, as she included some stunning, floaty dresses into her show that embraced all things hyper-feminine.
Her minimalist style was thought provoking, fresh and unique. The geometric knitwear was fun, experimental and bold, donning a punchy red, an on-trend beige and a classic black for a monochrome look. She turned a padded jacket into something so much more, with one look even morphing a suit jacket into a puffer coat, continuing this idea of distorting the masculine and feminine.
The suits, however, were the stars of the show. From oversized tailoring to nipped in waists to a half-suit-half-dress, these pieces made a statement. Her first look was a modern take on a classic two piece, with a fitted blazer paired with some oversized trousers in on-trend hues of beige. Then came out an array of suits that were more playful, experimenting with traditional shapes and cuts, with thigh slit trousers, asymmetric blazers and a grey suit jumpsuit taking centre stage. A style of clothing that was once only made for men has had a huge, feminine makeover, and it feels empowering.
Jakubowski made classic tailoring and everyday workwear a lot more exciting and thought provoking, and her minimalist style worked in her favour. The show was a quirky, young take on some timeless styles, really making them into her own. She’s definitely an upcoming designer that we can’t wait to see more of.
Words: Magda Kaczmarska | Fashion Week Press | @_magda__